2004 Seadoo sportster issues

[donphantasmo]

Hello guys. I've been putting around here for a while, reading and absorbing.

I bought a 2004 4tech sportster a few months ago. It's been running GREAT until a week ago. I took it out on the water and it wouldn't get over 5500 rpm. I just bought it home and figured I'd change the spark plugs, and start from there. I ran it at the house, and just gave it a quick run up, and it went up to redline with no problems.

I put it in the water today, and it wouldn't go over 5500 again. 3 new spark plugs and all, so I was really upset. Again, it ran great before, was clocking around 48 MPH. Now, not going close to 30.
I don't have a check engine light. So, what could it be?? I look at the gauges, and the previous owner took out the check engine light bulb (sneaky bastard). So, I put a bulb in there, and yep, light is on, continuously.

I'm sure no one can just tell me right off the bat what the problem is. I know there is a million things that could be the problem. But, how can I figure out what the problem is. Can it be diagnosed like a car with a code reader. I read on the forum that it can. I have a car OBD2 scanner. But, I have done a lot of research and I know now that I need the 6 pin connector. I don't have that (nor do I want to spend 300 on the scanner). Can it be diagnosed some other way?

Anyone ever have a similar issue???

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thank you in advance...

 

[devonte007]

Check engine light and rpm limiter means it went into limp mode because of an engine trouble code.

Let me first ask, the day it went from running great to running poorly did anything happen? Did you just start it up one day and it was running poorly? Do you also get a long beep from the alarm with the check engine light?

Since you already changed plugs, then only other thing I would check is the engine oil level. These engines are very sensitive to the oil level. The proper level is right smack in the middle of the two bends on the dip stick. Too much oil can cause abnormally high oil pressure once the engine reaches operating temp. or high rpm which then triggers the oil pressure sensor and a check engine light. Very common with these engines.

If the oil level checks out at the proper level and you are still having a problem then the only realistic thing to do is hook it up to the computer and pull the codes. There are only two ways to get codes from the boats with analog gauges, buy a candoo pro or take it to the dealer. Regular car diagnostic tools will not work. The newer boats with digital gauges have the ability to perform readouts of engine trouble codes.

As you probably realize, without knowing what code the engine is throwing there is no good way to diagnose the problem and not much more any of us can do to help you.

 

[pete63]

yep like me, with the 04 you need the candoo or dealer to read the fault codes and reset.
candoo is an investment that will save you money within one or two seasons.
i had a fault for years, even a dealer couldn't solve, with candoo and this forum i was able solve and fix the fault. (previous owner installed the wrong oil pressure switch). I also had one lanyard which was programmed as a learner, found this out with candoo and was able to re-program to a normal lanyard.

 

[donphantasmo]

Guys. I than you for your responses. I guess I'm buying a Candoo. I'll check the oil level first, but I see a Candoo in my future!!!

Again, thank you guys, very much..

 

[devonte007]

Glad to help.

I am in the same boat (literally and figuratively), but have not had to purchase the candoo yet. If my check engine light ever comes on in the future I too will own an candoo.

Post back when you have some more information and/or engine trouble codes and we'll do our best to help get this problem fixed.

 

[donphantasmo]

OK, so I went out and checked the oil, right in the middle of the two dipstick lines. I tried to start it, and it turned over, started and immediately died. I'm starting to think idle sensor, though.

I 'm not sure what the deal is, but this is starting to piss me off.

Devonte (Jodeci, lol), My boat is identical to yours, bro. Same color and all... I'm diggin it!!!

 

[donphantasmo]

OK, guys.. Here's the deal..

resat all the cannon plugs/quick disconnect fittings. Started right back up. On the trailer, put it in forward gear, revved it up real quick, got back up to 7000 RPM. It did that before, but when I put a load on it (in the water), it still goes to 5500 and just limps home.

Does this sound familiar? I'm going to get that candoo anyways. I hate to spend 400 on it, but it's the same as a couple of times at the seadoo dealership that's an hour away.

Anyone seen this before? Revs normal with no load, then limps under load???

 

[pete63]

did the check engine light on?
limp home mode is either 2500 or 5000 rpm, with a fault light on or beep. if no light on, it could be cavitation in the jet pump.

sounding more cavitation, maybe you also have a fault. it depends if the light is back on.


from manual

OTHER ENGINE MANAGEMENT
FUNCTIONS
Limp Home Mode
The ECM may automatically uses default parameters
to ensure the adequate operation of the boat
if a component of the engine management system
is not operating properly.
The following components failure will trigger a
limp home mode: CTS, EGTS, OPS, OSPS and
TOPS.
When minor fault occurs, the check engine
light/beeper will turn off automatically, if the condition
does not exist anymore.
Depending on the malfunction, the boat speed
may be reduced and not allowed to reach its usual
top speed. The engine speed will be limited to
2500 or 5000 RPM.
These performance-reduced modes allow the rider
to go back home which would not be possible
without this advanced system. Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC
PROCEDURES for a complete chart.

 

[donphantasmo]

did the check engine light on?
limp home mode is either 2500 or 5000 rpm, with a fault light on or beep. if no light on, it could be cavitation in the jet pump.

sounding more cavitation, maybe you also have a fault. it depends if the light is back on.


from manual

OTHER ENGINE MANAGEMENT
FUNCTIONS
Limp Home Mode
The ECM may automatically uses default parameters
to ensure the adequate operation of the boat
if a component of the engine management system
is not operating properly.
The following components failure will trigger a
limp home mode: CTS, EGTS, OPS, OSPS and
TOPS.
When minor fault occurs, the check engine
light/beeper will turn off automatically, if the condition
does not exist anymore.
Depending on the malfunction, the boat speed
may be reduced and not allowed to reach its usual
top speed. The engine speed will be limited to
2500 or 5000 RPM.
These performance-reduced modes allow the rider
to go back home which would not be possible
without this advanced system. Refer to the DIAGNOSTIC
PROCEDURES for a complete chart.

Pete, thanks for the response.

I'm going to go ahead, bite the bullet, and buy the Candoo home version, as per many of you guys' recomendation.

I'll keep you posted. I think it's the throttle position sensor, but who knows...

 

[xintersecty]

If it is the TPS, the you just save 200 bucks if you buy candoo. 1) you will diagnose the problem 2) then you need candoo to set the values and zero out the TPS. candoo was invaluable for finding my shorted relay box. And I replaced a lot of stuff before I broke down and bought candoo.

 

[donphantasmo]

Yep. I agree, Xinersecty... I was going to just reset the TPS to zero.

I already bit that bullet, and paid for the Candoo module. It was already shipped out today. So, it's being sent here. They made it priority mail, so I should have it Wednesday or Thursday. So, hopefully, I can be out on the water, this weekend.

Wish me luck...

 

[donphantasmo]

Candoo came in the mail today. I'm excited

 

[donphantasmo]

OK guys.. So I have 2 codes. One is 352, which is #2 ignition coil. I swapped #2 with #1, and the code stayed. Tells me it's not the coil, but the wiring. I'm not too worried about that, since that's a non reoccurring gripe.

The main problem I'm having is that p0505, here's what the description says:

"DLA output stage cutoff memory circuit or output stage fault or open circuit or short to 12V

SkiDoo:
IACV Output Stage (Cutoff Memory Difference / Fault)"

IACV "Idle Air Control Valve"... I tapped on it. I hear it actuating, I'm not sure what it could be. It's 222.49 on ebay. Before I pay that much money, I'd like to make sure that's what I actually need. I thought it was the TPS. I know the TPS can cause that code, too. But, has anyone ever came up with the same code and was able to just reset the IACV? Because when I reset my codes (clear code), it comes right back..

This is so frustrating...

Any help would surely be appreciated...

 

[donphantasmo]

Wait. Mine is not a SKIdoo, it's a SEAdoo. So, I guess my problem is the "DLA", whatever that is, right?

I'm lost....

 

[pete63]

Idle bypass valve – DLA
(Digital Linear Actuator)
– Idle actuator
– Idle valve

 

[donphantasmo]

Yeah, Pete. Finally after hours of searching, I found the problem.

Idle Control Valve (Idle bypass valve) Part number 420963051.

It's 222.49 everywhere I look. I just spend 430 Dollars on this Candoo. I'm debating on weather to get this part, and have my boat run well, or get a clutch for my truck (Ute). It's my spare car, that I only use to bring my boat to the lake. So, it's not necessary, nor is it immediate. But, neither is this DLA for my boat...

Either way, I'll see.

Thanks, Pete. I appreciate your speedy help.

Cheers..

 

[pete63]

no problem, we are all learning new stuff here......
i know what you mean, my boat still a project!!

 

[donphantasmo]

I see Idle bypass valves (Idle Air Control Valves) all over the place, on various cars and trucks. They look physically the same exact way.

They are much much cheaper.

Anyone know if they can be interchanged with the one on our boats/skiis?

I'm just curious.. If it saves me 200 dollars, I would be pretty happy, you know...

 

[donphantasmo]

I ordered one today. I'll keep you guys updated on the progress, in case someone has a similar problem, they can easily diagnose and repair. I see a lot of questions, then the poster just doesn't respond back. So, I (personally) am left in limbo. Is the problem fixed? If so, what did you do to fix it???

So, stay tuned..

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I see Idle bypass valves (Idle Air Control Valves) all over the place, on various cars and trucks. They look physically the same exact way.

They are much much cheaper.

Anyone know if they can be interchanged with the one on our boats/skiis?

I'm just curious.. If it saves me 200 dollars, I would be pretty happy, you know...

Sorta looks like some of the Chrysler IAC's to me but haven't seen them up close for comparison. Congrats on your 4-stroke Sportster, they seem to run well.

Basically in most of my experience not directly related with seadoos but others, when the IAC begins malfunctioning the engine controller begins to lose control of idle speed and most times the idle RPM's are higher than normal but can also be lower. Since the engine controller can't control idle speed (by modulating bypass air bypassing the throttle butterfly) then eventually a fault is generated since the idle speed is out of limits.

Occasionally these faults are interlinked when one of the engine sensors are defective (TPS/MAF/MAP/IAC/TEMP/etc) because the s/w has difficulty determining which sensor is producing unreliable info and that's when looking at the actual sensor data using a scanner such as candoo becomes most valuable.

I hate throwing parts at these things too, and the most unanticipated situation sometimes occurs when the root cause is ultimately traced to the engine controller itself, Sheesh!

Another thought on the IAC, Rotax may have borrowed one from BMW or possibly Mercedes, since those are prevalent in Europe.

I get the impression many time 4-tec TPS sensors are found to be intermittent for some internal reason, perhaps the resistive film flakes off the ceramic substrate it was deposited on, I've even seen at least one failure exposed during dissection within these pages and think that was the conclusion.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Check out the last post in this thread, and the entire thread, in case you haven't seen it already:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?72366-1-engine-revs-slower-than-the-other/page3

 

[donphantasmo]

Thanks, man. I'll keep you guys posted. I can't wait for this part to get here, and put it on.

Oh, interestingly enough, I had no RPM fluxes, or idle issues. My idle was always 1600-1800. Went up smooth, and came down smooth.

Either way, I'll keep trying..

 

[donphantasmo]

OK. So I went away for a while. But, I got the IACV in the mail, so I installed it. Again, same thing. I still have these same problems.

I'm going to grow some hair, so I can pull it out...

Any ideas ladies and gentlemen???

 

[pete63]

just reading the manual again,
(Section 04 ENGINE MANAGEMENT Subsection 02 (DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES).
that fault P0505 has no engine speed limiting, no check engine light and is detected when engine is stopped!!? something else going on??
i know there are some faults that show engine light but are not logged, any one else got any ideas?

 

[pete63]

OK guys.. So I have 2 codes. One is 352, which is #2 ignition coil. I swapped #2 with #1, and the code stayed. Tells me it's not the coil, but the wiring. I'm not too worried about that, since that's a non reoccurring gripe.

The main problem I'm having is that p0505, here's what the description says:

"DLA output stage cutoff memory circuit or output stage fault or open circuit or short to 12V

SkiDoo:
IACV Output Stage (Cutoff Memory Difference / Fault)"

IACV "Idle Air Control Valve"... I tapped on it. I hear it actuating, I'm not sure what it could be. It's 222.49 on ebay. Before I pay that much money, I'd like to make sure that's what I actually need. I thought it was the TPS. I know the TPS can cause that code, too. But, has anyone ever came up with the same code and was able to just reset the IACV? Because when I reset my codes (clear code), it comes right back..

This is so frustrating...

Any help would surely be appreciated...

I think the first fault has more to do with your on going problem, short in the ECU harness/plug causing the two faults. fault code p0352 in the manual match better to the conditions you mention.