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2003 XP-DI Help

See my post above. Fuel pressure should be 27PSI when you insert the key (yours looks good) and 107PSI when cranking/running. The OEM fuel pump has an integrated check valve to hold pressure and I dont think any aftermarket ones do. The check valve is primarily to help with initial crank and not so important during normal operation. Check the pressure when cranking and see if you get 107.



I didn't get that pressure when cranking. I was getting about 30psi then the pressure was dropping off....
 
See my post above. Fuel pressure should be 27PSI when you insert the key (yours looks good) and 107PSI when cranking/running. The OEM fuel pump has an integrated check valve to hold pressure and I dont think any aftermarket ones do. The check valve is primarily to help with initial crank and not so important during normal operation. Check the pressure when cranking and see if you get 107.


Also I didn't have the Guage in line because I have the fuel rail apart right now... I had the Guage directly connected to the feed line from the pump...the pressure still shouldn't be dropping though? I'm thinking if I ad a clamp inside the pump there could be a leak there.
 
I got the qfs-500di pump which basically screws right into the old fitting on top the old pump....I'm just thinking fuel is leaking inside the pump maybe
 
The best way to test fuel pressure is with an in-line gauge. You should see the numbers I mention above. Correct fuel pressure on a DI relies on proper function of the fuel pump, air compressor, air regulator, and fuel regulator.

If you had the gauge testing dead head on the fuel pump outlet, you should be seeing more than 30 PSI.
 
Does anyone know if the 275500622 is good to use in the xp-di I'm getting 275500545
Maybe more specific?
I had the search the numbers but the 622 is the fuel pump assembly listed for a 2004 Di.
275500585 is the fuel pump for the 2003. The part numbers do not supersede or cross reference each other so there must be a difference.
 
See my post above. Fuel pressure should be 27PSI when you insert the key (yours looks good) and 107PSI when cranking/running. The OEM fuel pump has an integrated check valve to hold pressure and I dont think any aftermarket ones do. The check valve is primarily to help with initial crank and not so important during normal operation. Check the pressure when cranking and see if you get 107.

so you are saying it doesn't matter that its dropping off like this right after?
 
Maybe more specific?
I had the search the numbers but the 622 is the fuel pump assembly listed for a 2004 Di.
275500585 is the fuel pump for the 2003. The part numbers do not supersede or cross reference each other so there must be a difference.

Thanks for the reply, but would it matter if i used a fuel pump for any other 951 di? because mine seems to be discontinued.

and the metal tube from the aftermarket pump is cracked at the top going into the tube of the fuel pump where is moves up and down, and i think I'm leaking from there. I tried a clamp but I didn't want to break the plastic tube.
 
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In theory it should not matter for the actual pump itself but it could be an expensive trial.
 
The best way to test fuel pressure is with an in-line gauge. You should see the numbers I mention above. Correct fuel pressure on a DI relies on proper function of the fuel pump, air compressor, air regulator, and fuel regulator.

If you had the gauge testing dead head on the fuel pump outlet, you should be seeing more than 30 PSI.


Yes i was testing dead head on the pump....it was stopping at 30psi...and then dropping off right away...i was concerned about it dropping off shouldn't it hold the pressure for a bit?
 
In theory it should not matter for the actual pump itself but it could be an expensive trial.
Yeah thanks...I ended up buying a used pump for my 2003 xp-di....which sucks it was expensive for used.... but I don't wanna mess around with this pump if I don't have to.... that will be my backup plan, jerry rigging some hose and clamp inside the pump if the used one doesn't work... or for when it fails. I'm replacing all the regulators and injectors and the orings for the air and fuel line. the used pump will hopefully be here Monday.

I think my fuel regulator may have been part of my problem, I really don't know though. I'm still guessing til i get the right fuel pressure.
 
I think the core design of all DI pumps are the same. I know some have longer hoses as I replaced mine with one from a different model. WestSidePowerSports.com helped me with my replacement and can speak to interchangeability.

I am less worried about pressure leaking down than it not hitting proper pressure in the first place. Regardless of the leakdown, only hitting 30 PSI is a major issue as the pump needs to hold 110+ during operation.

Some have had luck reviving their original pumps by circulating a gasoline / toluene mixture through them for 30 min or so. You can manually power the pump outside the ski with 12v to the pump plug. Might be an option to try while you wait for the OEM replacement. I did it inside a large glass jar which gave me a visual check for leaks as well.
 
I think the core design of all DI pumps are the same. I know some have longer hoses as I replaced mine with one from a different model. WestSidePowerSports.com helped me with my replacement and can speak to interchangeability.

I am less worried about pressure leaking down than it not hitting proper pressure in the first place. Regardless of the leakdown, only hitting 30 PSI is a major issue as the pump needs to hold 110+ during operation.

Some have had luck reviving their original pumps by circulating a gasoline / toluene mixture through them for 30 min or so. You can manually power the pump outside the ski with 12v to the pump plug. Might be an option to try while you wait for the OEM replacement. I did it inside a large glass jar which gave me a visual check for leaks as well.

I agree....the problem is my original pump is now dead to me....because that pipe cracked and its leaking inside of the pump.... it looks like the pump may still be good....but the intake filter was just so clogged it was caked up.....and then the rail was nasty and i believe now after seeing my orings that they all were leaking in the fuel rail. because they shrank so much and water and/or rust was in there so the fuel was dark brown dripping out of the fuel regulator...

The fuel regulator is in the bag and the air regulator is the one with crap all on the bottom... they both had brown crap all inside them and coming out of them...
 

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Success my seadoo is back up and running. I will test it in water this weekend. I'm So glad i got it running before I goto VA for the weekend. I hope my other issue is fixed where it was running rough after 10 mins... I'm guessingnmsybe that was either the clogged fuel filters or the nastiness in the fuel rail







 
Well the drama continues....anyone in NJ with a candoo?????



Everytime I Rev it it seem to cause the maint light to come on....anyone know what could cause this? Could a leak from the rave valves cause a check engine? I did clean them and didn't get the new gaskets yet...
 
Hello, i have a 2003 XP DI and got the MAINT message on the dash along with i think was a beep all 2 minutes.
The only thing i did was to change the rectifier (got it from china, austria is bad for replacement parts ^^) and
the MAPS sensor, but i think it was the rectifier because they are sensible to voltage problems.
Hope that helps, you also can test it but i got mine for about 25€ i think.
 
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