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2003 Polaris Freedom NO SPARK!!

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Carlangas1989

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Ok guys am trying to fix this polaris for my friend and i just cant figure it out.....its a 2003 Polaris Freedom 700 red domestic engine

I done this so far

  1. Charge battery Getting 11.3 while crancking so thats good
  2. i done hall efect test...and it ohms out good when i turn the engine slowly by hand
  3. i checked plugs good
  4. new spark plugs
  5. I did the 9v battery test to check cdi...still no spark
  6. I checked Brown wire coming out of cdi for V..and am getting 9.***V so it is sending V
  7. Some one told me to check DCV coming out of white/black wires from cdi...and i got 250DCV...is that correct??
  8. I put a new LR505 board bc the one that was on it was leaving the bilge pump on all time...

Now does anybody know how often coil goes bad on this?? I checked it by ohming out the primary side and secondary side and it checks good...does that mean is good??? i know sometimes it would check good but its not...

Also when i put a spark plug tester the light goes on and off but its not really bright...but when i put the spark plug to groung i cant see not even a tiny spark...

Does anyone know how much dc V i should get on BLACK/WHITE wires coming out of the CDI??

I had to put my boat aside to get this one going...:facepalm:

tHANKS :banghead:
 
The original LR units were all bad. There was an upgrade on them over the years. BUT..........................


As I recall... there was an issue with low voltage on starting.

Just for giggles.... Hold the bilge pump button, and try to crank it. See if you get spark.


Also... Does it hav the "Security" dash board? If it does... it's known to go bad. Unplug it from behind the dash. Basically the gauge just grounds the system. SO... if it fails, you loose spark.


And finally... when I was troubleshooting my Genesis... I found BADLY corroded wires in the coil. (it was keeping one cyl from firing) Did you remove the high voltage wires and just look down inside??


306.jpg
 
Oh... and not to over simplify things....


Do you have the lanyard in it?? Polaris will crank all day long without the lanyard, but you don't get spark. (I've done it more than one time with mine)
 
ok the jetski does not have a security dash board...it only has gas and oil....

I tried the bilge pump button and nothing...

I also took the cables out of the coil and they dont look bad at all...

I also tried to disconect the gauge and nothing...now i do have to say that when i plug the gauge the orange wires will have power all time wich its wierd but ok.....

i check the landyard and its working properly

Now this is whats wierd to me.......the stator its sending signal to cdi..and the cdi is putting out DCV to coil....after that idk what happens...

Am I missing something here?
 
I have no experience with this engine, But I have had a few coils ohm out ok and provide no spark. Through process of elimination I narrowed down the problem to the coil. Once replaced it sparked.
 
So... a different coil, and you now have spark???



The other thing I was going to say to try is disconnect the gray wire going to the CDI. It's the rev-limiter. But you shoudl still get low RPM spark.
 
OK i order a new coil, and it will be here thursday ...i like what i just read :lol:....i hope thats the problem...i will keep yall posted....Thanks Doc...and Chucked:cheers:
 
UPDATE

Guys i got my coil in today and guess what.....................................still no spark!!!!!

Anybody got anymore ideas...

Am thinking about pulling the engine out and check the stator but i really dont want to....is there anythjing else i should check before i pull that engine out....

Also if there is anybody out there with good elec skills,,,can yall tell me how many DCV got coming out of black/white wire of CDI I GET 250DCV

THANKS AGAIN
 
Are you certain the spark plug is good? CDI needs 250VDC, that seems good to me, or maybe it's not enough(weak spark you noticed) measure stator resistance, stator makes AC which is rectified to DC(250VDC or more). CDI may not be receiving trigger signal or ground?

EDIT: I'm not sure how the 250VDC is generated, it doesn't have to be stator.

Capacitor discharges into coil. Is capacitor replaceable? Maybe you have a weak capacitor?

Here is an example of a CDI schematic, this might give you some ideas:

http://www.sportdevices.com/ignition/ignition.htm

In this schematic, you can see on the right side, a power supply and rectifier bridge which generates several hundred volts for the coil, which is fired by Q4 through C7. On the left side is the timing circuit with hall sensor pickup:

http://www.electronics.gompy.net/weedeatercdi/schema01.jpg

I'm just guessing here.
 
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OK... let's take a huge step back.......


1) You "9v" tested the Hall sensors... right? Did you check both?

2) You have a 250vdc output from the CDI to the coil. Is it pulsing? Is it pulsing at the right time?


If you get a 250v pulse to the coil, and it's at the right "Time".... then it should be firing. BUT... you could have a bad ground somewhere. Also... with only using a meter... you can see volts, but it wont' show current. (there's no load) If you have a simple high voltage probe for checking house power (The kind with a neon light in it) hook that to the output of the CDI. If it flashes... then the 250v has enough current.


For giggles... disconnect the Black/Yellow and the Gray wire at the CDI. One is the kill, and the other is the limiter. With them disconnected, there is no outside influence on the spark.



Do you have the book for it? I have a 2002 book... but as far as I know... there wasn't any changed from 2002 to 2003 on that ski.
 
By any chance did the new coil come with new wires? If you reused your old wires, they could be bad internally.
 
"If you get a 250v pulse to the coil"

Good point, if the coil receives a large enough pulse(250v sounds large enough) then it must fire if current flows. A bad ground could stop current flow. There has to be a pulse of 250v to flux the coil, it's not there long b/c the capacitor is in series with the coil.
 
:lol:

Ok i done hall sensors..both...checked good...i had high ohms and then they drop quick when i turned the engine..

No doc i did not get new cables....does anyone know how much they should ohm...i get about 3.***K OHMS

What about if i take all ground cables from my box and hook the direcly to my battery? And also bypass that black board where all cables hook up?

Now to check pulses or current on those two cables (back and white) do i just put a high V test light?

I put new spark plugs on it so i know thats not the problem..

I do have the manual doc...i have wiring diagram book..and shop manual....if yall would like me to post link yall let me know...i got everything for polaris pwc

I been thinking myselft to pull engine and check to see if i dont have shear key on the flywheel...but that dont make any scense bc the engine turns and i get pulses tru a spark plug tester....

Thanks alot guys!!! We will get to the bottom of this :boxing_smiley:
 
Shear key on flywheel won't cause no spark, it can only cause spark at wrong time? Unless, the sensor is grossly mistimed with the stator magnet. But, in this case isn't the sensor triggered by the same flywheel?

Again, I'm not sure if your 250v is generated by a stator or by some other device, I'm only assuming the 250v comes from a stator.

I've seen the magnet come lose from the inside of the flywheel, and stick itself to the stator on brand Force outboards but in that case there was no 250vdc because the magnet wasn't fluxing the stator.

If you want to post the link to the schematic, I'll try to download and look it over.

Put highv tester on coil pulse wire, it should show a pulse. I expect it will b/c your spark tester shows spark. It sounds like weak spark though, b/c it won't jump a plug. So,,,,, This sounds like a possible coil grounding problem. High resistance in ground will cause weak spark, me thinks.

Okay, so I want to know what is this spark checker you have, is it an air-gap type with adjustable gap or some kind of sensitive inductive type? Only kind of spark checker to have is adjustable air-gap type, all else is junk if you can't actually see the spark in air in order to judge color and size of spark how does this qualify as checking spark?

How is the ignition timing advance controlled, by mechanical throttle linkage or by ignition controller?
 
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The manual is big. But...... PM an email address, and I'll see what I can do.


The timing is 100% in the CDI unit. On some of them... there is a COM port, and you can link to it, and adjust it with a computer.


OK... I was just reading above, and I may have found your issue. You said the wires are showing 3K ohm's? On my ski... they are solid core. They should show almost NO resistance. The wires could be corroded internally.
 
Hi,
Thanks, I cannot accept a big manual, probably. I also believe this is beginning to sound like a problem with corroded/high-resistance wires/grounds which are limiting coil current.
 
Ah, yes, those are spark plug wires and anything as low or lower than 3k Ohms per foot seems perfectly acceptable to me. Many wires have different values from only a few thousand ohms per foot to as many as 20k ohms per foot depending on the application and some are even solid core wire with zero resistance. These are resistance wires, thus the longer one should show a slightly higher resistance.

I wouldn't be concerned with those values you have measured there, it seems normal.

Your coil there, which of the two lugs is the grounding lug? Is the resistance from there to the negative terminal on your battery near zero?
 
OK. Then yes... those are resistor wires. (they are fine) On my ski... they were copper core with a resistor boot.


Wellllll.............


If the triggers are good, the coil is new, the wires are OK, the charge coil is in spec, and making voltage... then all that's left is that the CDI is bad, and not putting out enough current to fire the plug.


OR.....


there is a physical bad ground, or connection somewhere.


The newer CDI's don't normally go bad on the Polaris. (2000 was the last year of the wacky CDI's) BUT... when the LR unit fails... it's know to take out the CDI.
 
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