2002 Seadoo Speedster

[Ciny]

Another "I just bought a" thread!

Been reading these forums all week, you guys are great, so I sub'd!

So I just bought a 2002 Speedster last week that has been sitting for 8 years. The owner got it stuck in mud in 2011 and burned up the engine, insurance replaced the engine. Well why it was getting repaired, Life happened and the boat has been sitting ever since he got it back from the shop. Seller claims it hasn't been run after engine replacement.

To be clear, i am savvy, but very little engine repair knowledge. So this was purchased as a project. Boat was not cared for from the looks of it, and I only paid $800 for it. I'm looking for a lil direction to get started.

What to check first, what would deem this project a lost cause, order in which to start replacing parts (both mechanical/cosmetic).

Really appreciate this resource!

Edit: Did not mean to imply basic knowledge questions, I realize replacing all fluids, plugs, fogging inside plug holes first is needed. But signs too look for that i have major issues and if i should continue the project is what i'm asking mostly.

 

[Tim75]

Is the engine seized?

Mercury was known to use wire that had crappy insulation. Especially where it had to flex a lot. Like under the flywheel. Brain lock--can't think of its name. Every time the throttle moves, this piece rotates and flexes the wires. Most of the other wire insulation is of better quality.

There is also a float valve inside the vapor separating tank (vst). The seat being brass and the needle being aluminum. Electrolosys happens and the 2 pieces lock together preventing gas from flowing into the pump chamber. The vst actually is the fuel pump for the injectors.

Just 3 of the things that can happen to an engine that sits.

 

[Ciny]

Battery is shot of course, so instead of jumping it I was gonna replace then try to turn over. Should I see if it turns over before doing anything else?

Edit: the flywheel turns by hand.

 

[Tim75]

You got a good start in that the engine is not seized after those years sitting.

 

[Ciny]

I took some pics I had questions about. Below, clircled in green are wires going nowhere, normal?

Next pic is closer up of blue/white wire connector, wires seem to be cut off.

Last pic is closer look at 3 wires connected to nothing.

 

[Ciny]

Another update: I put a new 1050 mca battery in. Being impatient like i am, I wanted to see if engine would turn over so I hooked up water, per this post. Turning key to ON i hear a clicking sound, turning key to START, identical clicking sound with no change. Any ideas as to what this means?

My plan is to replace fluids, plugs, fuel lines next, unless you guys suggest otherwise.

Edit: Added Video of the clicking

Dropbox - Clicking.mov

 

[Tim75]

There are some orphan wires on my engine, too.

Did the engine turn over or just click? Fuel pump is on port side of engine. Key ON, find the black "cube" with fuel hose.

There are threads here that go into every step of what you need to do.

 

[Ciny]

Never turned over, it didn't even try. Ok, i'll look for fuel pump threads.

Question, if starter is bad, would it make some kind of sound or nadda?

Thank you Tim!

 

[Tim75]

If the starer is dead..... Silence.

If you have worked on a car starer, you can work on Merc starter. The biggest difference is the pie-shape brushes. The brush holders may rust and lock the brushes in place.

 

[Ciny]

I've not worked on any engines. This is all new to me so again, thank you for ur patience and explainations.

So assuming worst, starter is dead, is it rebuildable, or just replace? I read someone in this forum say aftermarket starters can't compare in quality to OEM, so salvage what i can.

 

[Tim75]

Starter is repairable, unless it was submerged in seawater. New ones on ebay are Taiwanese. Think what you will. Mine has been working 3 years. Before you toss the starter, you need to check the solenoid. Cheaper than a starter.

 

[Tim75]

Forgot a detail--
When you tried to start, did you have the shifter in NEUTRAL? There is an electric lockout that prevents starting in gear. The lockout is under the shifter handles.

 

[Ciny]

Oh no! I didn’t try that, the shifter was in reverse! I’ll try that in morning before I head to work.

 

[Ciny]

Well, you were right on the money! Starter is one less thing i need to worry about now.

So the clicking noise, i've listened to other videos of the fuel pump engage when key is turned. Mine just clicks. So that will be my next focus

 

[Ciny]

So the clicking noise (heard here Dropbox - Clicking.mov) originates with the electronic fuel pump 852521A13. (eBay=$203) Is this thing repairable or does it just click like that when its not getting fuel to pump?

I haven't flushed out tank or replaced any lines yet, but was about to put order in for some stuff and checking if i should order this part as well.

 

[rsatina2002]

can you please type your engine type, so we can help you properly...

 

[Ciny]

mercury v6 m2 jetdrive 240 efi

 

[rsatina2002]

We have the same situation on my 2002 Sea Doo Challenger 2000, bought it when the boat was stored for 6 years w/o running with low engine hours, change the battery, change the water separator filter, rebuild ECU's, change the spark plugs, engine turn over but doesn't start, bought my own Mercury manual book, mine is 240 EFI Gen. 1 and yours probably the same because of year manufactured. The actual problem when I read and study everything, it is the electronic fuel pump inside the VST (Vapor separator tank), it is rusted and won't provide any fuel to the cylinder and change it and boats run like a champ and some problem a little bit after 20 hours of running and change the port side temp sensor and air temp sensor and until now boat is running like a new engine. message me if you have any problem and I notice your engine looks the same as mine on the pictures. Recommended to buy a mercury manual and check engine serial number to have the proper manual on hand. Here in California, only 1 boat shop will repair it and with a very long turn around period due to hard to find parts. I just did it myself and boat finally running and getting ready for spring run for the boat. Message me anytime.

 

[Tim75]

Pulse fuel pump- does its thump-thump whether dry or pumping gas. It does sound a little different when actually pumping gas. There are generic replacements available if you really need it. About $40. Just make sure it is a marine pump.

Inside the vst- the pump that builds pressure for the injectors- there is an inlet valve and float like an old carb. The needle is aluminum and the seat is brass. After sitting for months, I had no fuel pressure. The needle had corroded to the seat, blocking gas form coming into the vst. You need a fuel injector pressure gauge. There is a shrader valve (looks like a tire valve) on top of the vst. Key on pressure should be 36 psi. When you feel the vst, you should be able to feel a buzz from a motor running inside it. There is a drain plug on the bottom outside of the vst that can be opened to drain it. Careful- screw is only brass and is delicate.

 

[Ciny]

Do either of u feel is in my best interest to just replace the vst pump, float valve, other fuel pump, etc. I realize they don't fix till it's broke mentality, i just don't really wanna run into issues while out on water.

But if these parts are solid after a lil clean up. Then that's the path I'll take

 

[rsatina2002]

Anybody knows where is Dr Honda? Didnt see his comments anymore?

 

[Tim75]

Do either of u feel is in my best interest to just replace the vst pump, float valve, other fuel pump, etc. I realize they don't fix till it's broke mentality, i just don't really wanna run into issues while out on water.

But if these parts are solid after a lil clean up. Then that's the path I'll take

Unless internally damaged, the vst is pretty solid. 2 failures inside are the float valve seat and the pump itself. Sometimes the pump can seize. At that point, the pump is junk. There are replacement pumps on ebay for $40 that will fit. Typically they even come with a new filter.There is an O-ring between the halves that should be replaced.

On the outside, there is the pressure regulator that can fail. Mine did. It is supposed to test @ 36 psi. Mine was 85 psi. Ran a little rich. My solution is on a thread. Careful of those 2 short molded hoses-- $70 if you could find them.

 

[rsatina2002]

Yes Tim was right, VST is very solid, float valve seat and the pump is the most critical, I bought the electronic fuel pump in amazon for I think $70 with a lifetime warrant, they are base in Glendale CA but their product is very close to the OEM fuel pump it just that you have to make sure all the gasket is in the proper place and proper fitting because when I change mine, it started leaking on the pump to the upper fitting of fuel pump and realize that the manual slightly confusing on the sequence of the gasket and I fix it properly and no leak at this time. Always take a picture of the OEM fuel pump to the new one since the new in 3rd party Non-OEM brand. If you buy an OEM brand on ebay, they look ok but make sure, they all have the small gaskets and change it to new filter inside. Those 2 hoses that Tim is talking about is very fragile careful, hard to find parts and expensive.