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2002 Seadoo gtx di
- Thread starter Secret Outing
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Secret Outing
Active Member
One thing I do remember is that when I’ve disconnected fuel lines there if never any pressure to worry about
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Good luck. DI skis are not that bad. You just had the odds stacked against you because someone before you.
OEM pump and your problems would be solved.
I have been on this forum for a long time and I cannot tell you how many times I read about people have ongoing trouble with carb skis as well as DI skis.
OEM pump and your problems would be solved.
I have been on this forum for a long time and I cannot tell you how many times I read about people have ongoing trouble with carb skis as well as DI skis.
I agree with jhjesse and he is one of our most valuable resources for DI skis here, I can't remember him ever being stumped by one of the DI skis. And he always says OEM pump and is always proven correct.
The DI skis are great when they are running correct and it's typically a few common things.
Don't get me wrong, the carbed skis have their issues also but I have been working on them for over 25 years so I know them pretty well but have never had the chance to dive into a DI ski so I stick with what I know.
If you bought an OEM pump there is a very, very, very likely chance your issues would be solved.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Thanks Mikidymac. That is probably the best thing anyone ever said to me in the 10-12 years I have been on this forum.
Secret Outing
Active Member
My fuel pressure is perfect. Runs perfect on the trailer. It’s only in the water.
Having the exact same issues as the person who started the thread below back in 2012
2002 GTX-DI no power in water That thread was closed so no idea if it was ever solved. But I did try sending him a pm.
I did notice when I rode it in the water I can get good rpms with very little throttle and when I pull throttle all the way back you can tell it’s wanting to pick it up but doesn’t get over 3410 rpms and sometimes that number varied some each time I full throttled it. Almost like it’s being limited, keeping it from going.
It just makes sense that it’s some sort of load issue.
Having the exact same issues as the person who started the thread below back in 2012
2002 GTX-DI no power in water That thread was closed so no idea if it was ever solved. But I did try sending him a pm.
I did notice when I rode it in the water I can get good rpms with very little throttle and when I pull throttle all the way back you can tell it’s wanting to pick it up but doesn’t get over 3410 rpms and sometimes that number varied some each time I full throttled it. Almost like it’s being limited, keeping it from going.
It just makes sense that it’s some sort of load issue.
Hello! I would have chimed in sooner but I just started using the forum. As you know, there are four things you need for an engine to run good/correct. Fuel, Air, Compression and Spark. You asked what else could be wrong with these and didn't really get an answer. I have something for you and it may be related to your issues:
1. Fuel. Sounds like you got that one figured out. Good pressure is good. Did you make sure it sustains the pressure at all times, even when under load or at RPM? Also, just because you have pressure, you could have bad spray pattern or leaking injectors. Basically, the spray has to be a nice fine conical mist to properly atomize and mix with the air. You can start with some good injector cleaner.
2. Spark. I think you said you have new plugs. Double check they are good and have the proper gap. Also, you may want to make sure you have a strong spark. These have an electronic module/coil to deliver the spark and they can go bad or weaken and not deliver proper spark. You can test by pulling the plugs out of the engine, plug the boot in to the plug and set it on the top of the engine, making sure to have the thread area touching metal. Crank the engine a few times and observe the spark. It should be bright and strong. Caution...do no touch anything around the plug as it is cranking/sparking and make sure there is no fuel vapor around it can ignite if you do this test. You might be able to skip this test as it is least likely to be the issue given your symptoms.
3. Compression. You said you had it checked. Do you recheck it yourself? You should be around 140 PSI and each cylinder should be within range of the other by about 10-12 PSI. It is easy to do, take the plugs out and thread your compression tester into the spark plug hole. Crank the engine for a few seconds until the needle stops climbing and stop. Record your value and do the next one. That picture you posted of the item you were using for a fuel pressure gauge will work. Quick side test while you are doing this. If compression is low, put a capful of oil in the spark plug hole and re-do compression test. If your compression comes back up to normal, you have bad piston rings or some other leaking going on.
4. Air. Did you check the stainless steel mesh "air filter"? Make sure it is not gunked up with oil or grease. If that is not it, here is the last thing to check. These engines have a rotary valve that must be timed. This is the most common failure on these things. Mine actually had the brass gear on the rotary valve shred and not turn the rotary valve disk anymore. Motor wouldn't run at all with this failure. However, if the rotary valve is still spinning, they wear down and allow "blow by" which reduces power. Hopefully, if this is what it is, you just need to replace the rotary valve and it is about $30 and really easy to replace. You have to take apart the air intake plastic parts and the butterfly valve (throttle body). Finally, there is a cover plate you take off with an o-ring to seal it and there is your valve. Make sure when you buy the new valve, you get a timing degree disc so you can align the valve in the right place. You will know this is the problem if there are deep grooves in the disc. Here is the possible bad news. There is a gear the drives the rotary valve. When you have it all taken apart, try to grab a hold of that gear and turn it to observe the play. There should be very little. If there is play, you could have a brass gear inside that is starting to wear and this is causing the rotary valve to slip out of timing adjustment. If this is your problem, that is a whole separate issue and post so we will cross that bridge if/when we need to.
Hope this helps!!!!
Mike
1. Fuel. Sounds like you got that one figured out. Good pressure is good. Did you make sure it sustains the pressure at all times, even when under load or at RPM? Also, just because you have pressure, you could have bad spray pattern or leaking injectors. Basically, the spray has to be a nice fine conical mist to properly atomize and mix with the air. You can start with some good injector cleaner.
2. Spark. I think you said you have new plugs. Double check they are good and have the proper gap. Also, you may want to make sure you have a strong spark. These have an electronic module/coil to deliver the spark and they can go bad or weaken and not deliver proper spark. You can test by pulling the plugs out of the engine, plug the boot in to the plug and set it on the top of the engine, making sure to have the thread area touching metal. Crank the engine a few times and observe the spark. It should be bright and strong. Caution...do no touch anything around the plug as it is cranking/sparking and make sure there is no fuel vapor around it can ignite if you do this test. You might be able to skip this test as it is least likely to be the issue given your symptoms.
3. Compression. You said you had it checked. Do you recheck it yourself? You should be around 140 PSI and each cylinder should be within range of the other by about 10-12 PSI. It is easy to do, take the plugs out and thread your compression tester into the spark plug hole. Crank the engine for a few seconds until the needle stops climbing and stop. Record your value and do the next one. That picture you posted of the item you were using for a fuel pressure gauge will work. Quick side test while you are doing this. If compression is low, put a capful of oil in the spark plug hole and re-do compression test. If your compression comes back up to normal, you have bad piston rings or some other leaking going on.
4. Air. Did you check the stainless steel mesh "air filter"? Make sure it is not gunked up with oil or grease. If that is not it, here is the last thing to check. These engines have a rotary valve that must be timed. This is the most common failure on these things. Mine actually had the brass gear on the rotary valve shred and not turn the rotary valve disk anymore. Motor wouldn't run at all with this failure. However, if the rotary valve is still spinning, they wear down and allow "blow by" which reduces power. Hopefully, if this is what it is, you just need to replace the rotary valve and it is about $30 and really easy to replace. You have to take apart the air intake plastic parts and the butterfly valve (throttle body). Finally, there is a cover plate you take off with an o-ring to seal it and there is your valve. Make sure when you buy the new valve, you get a timing degree disc so you can align the valve in the right place. You will know this is the problem if there are deep grooves in the disc. Here is the possible bad news. There is a gear the drives the rotary valve. When you have it all taken apart, try to grab a hold of that gear and turn it to observe the play. There should be very little. If there is play, you could have a brass gear inside that is starting to wear and this is causing the rotary valve to slip out of timing adjustment. If this is your problem, that is a whole separate issue and post so we will cross that bridge if/when we need to.
Hope this helps!!!!
Mike
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
These engines have a rotary valve that must be timed. This is the most common failure on these things. Mine actually had the brass gear on the rotary valve shred and not turn the rotary valve disk anymore. Motor wouldn't run at all with this failure. However, if the rotary valve is still spinning, they wear down and allow "blow by" which reduces power. Hopefully, if this is what it is, you just need to replace the rotary valve and it is about $30 and really easy to replace. You have to take apart the air intake plastic parts and the butterfly valve (throttle body). Finally, there is a cover plate you take off with an o-ring to seal it and there is your valve. Make sure when you buy the new valve, you get a timing degree disc so you can align the valve in the right place. You will know this is the problem if there are deep grooves in the disc. Here is the possible bad news. There is a gear the drives the rotary valve. When you have it all taken apart, try to grab a hold of that gear and turn it to observe the play. There should be very little. If there is play, you could have a brass gear inside that is starting to wear and this is causing the rotary valve to slip out of timing adjustment. If this is your problem, that is a whole separate issue and post so we will cross that bridge if/when we need to.
Hope this helps!!!!
Mike[/QUOTE]
Nope! Rotary valve does not exist on these engines.
Hope this helps!!!!
Mike[/QUOTE]
Nope! Rotary valve does not exist on these engines.
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Ervin Ikirk
New Member
I think the fuel pressure is dropping
Ervin Ikirk
New Member
Is there any replacement of fuel filter?
Ervin Ikirk
New Member
I am not able to find fuel injector cleaners, kindly let me know any detailed guide.
Ervin Ikirk
New Member
Isn't there injector cleaner you could add to the gasoline to clean the injectors. I don't know if this works but it is worth a try before spending $240. Try this link: Best Fuel Injector Cleaner – Review & Buying Guide in 2019
Dale at fuelinjectorman.com tells me all the cleaners do is destroy the injectors. Best to send the injectors to a vendor that cleans and tests them properly. Filters need to be replaced and fuel pressure tested.
As for putting additives in the tank.... that's up to the individual but it won't address a serious problem. Good Luck.
As for putting additives in the tank.... that's up to the individual but it won't address a serious problem. Good Luck.
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