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2002 RX D.I. Issues??

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As long as you don't monkey with the throttle body, or replace it. you will not need too. The timing "should" be checked however as i am guessing you are getting a new crank, but in reality, the web that holds the timing key for the mag flywheel can't be changed, so I doubt your timing will be off. SES is using your original case & cylinder, correct?


Yep. Using my case and cyl. Is there any way to test/clean the injectors before I put it back together? Would anyone recommend just replacing them anyway? Air injectors?
 
I think I'd look into new fuel injectors, that's one of the gotcha's on the RFI skis.

Did you get a compression test on that SES motor? I'd like to know how that turned out.
 
I think I'd look into new fuel injectors, that's one of the gotcha's on the RFI skis.

Did you get a compression test on that SES motor? I'd like to know how that turned out.

Any recommendation on where to get new injectors?

Talking about compression on the one I just dropped in the 2000 XP carb motor or this DI one? Or the one I was talking about in the other thread about the big bore motor?
 
Are you thinking of changing them for fear of them injecting lean? I went through the same mental debate with my first DI rebuild. After some research I realized they are just too darn expensive to replace "just because" Then I started looking up places to have them cleaned & didn't get very far with that. So I decided to do a homebuilt test. I hooked up the fuel rail in the ski, hard wired the fuel pump to 12V & just let it run. I cycled each injector with my injector pulse tool. I ran them at 400 pulse cycles @ 10ms each cycle. I had 38.2 ML of fuel on the PTO injector & 38.9 ML on the PTO injector. I figured close enough & put it together.

I kept my notes & did this test again on my next DI. That one was 38.1 & 39.0 That engine was brought down by a bad crank so I really wasn't worried much, but tested them anyway for future comparisons.

If your engine is out of the ski, its really not hard to do. just need to get your hands on a pulse tool & a graduated cylinder to collect the fuel. Backyard testing no doubt, but its still a controlled test to compare the two injectors for balance anyway.
 
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YEah, I'd have more confidence if the fuel tank and filter didn't seem too dirty, also if the injectors seem to work well. Someone reported leaking fuel injector I think were washing away their oil film so it CAN go either way.

I like the idea of testing them, even if it's just a drip test.
 
YEah, I'd have more confidence if the fuel tank and filter didn't seem too dirty, also if the injectors seem to work well. Someone reported leaking fuel injector I think were washing away their oil film so it CAN go either way.

I like the idea of testing them, even if it's just a drip test.

I agree! I have an extra DI rail with injectors. I was thinking about pulling the injectors & seeing how accessible the internal filters are. if they are like many injectors, maybe the filters can be removed & cleaned too?
 
I've always wanted to reverse flush injectors, haven't checked into how those guys are able to clean them and all the time run into those who'd rather just replace them for the price differential.

But for the most part, injectors are pretty dang reliable as long as the fuel system wasn't contaminated with something. LOL, reminds me of the time a buddy bought a car that had been sitting 10 years and it ran just fine the first 1/2 tank until he dumped a bottle of seafoam in the fuel tank, it almost immediately started missing and popping. I asked him why he threw seafoam int before even replacing the fuel filter, he looks at me and says yeah, I shoulda thought of that first.
 
I know the gas isn't that old in it. But when I removed the oil line when removing the motor it was almost an orange color and was plopping out of the filter like sludge. Po said they didn't use seadoo oil and was just using 2 stroke pwc oil. That's all they could tell me. Other than his wife was riding and it cut off and would not restart.
 
Yeah, if you think you've got a lack of fuel on any kind of engine some pre-mix sprayed into the intake will isolate the possibility.

Be really careful doing that (priming) a diesel though, our old Indian trick for diesels is to lay a gasoline-soaked rag in the air box next to the intake, not squirt it directly in the intake.
 
Got back to work on this one tonight. Must say it is ALOT easier replacing a steering cable with the motor out. Also drained the gas and oil, changed the oil filter and cleaned the bilge. Hoping to possibly set the motor back in tomorrow.
 
How about sonic cleaning the injectors? Anybody tried it yet? Was thinking about getting a cleaner since I have two skis with fuel injection.
 
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Sonic cleaning might help clear out a plugged injector, wouldn't count that out. Might want to give it the blast while it's flowing even.

But, I like the flow test idea most...... If it passed the flow and leak tests then I wouldn't be too hot on risking a weird bath of soapy water and purple cleaner.
 
Didn't get to it tonight. Was packing up that rfi motor to send to SES tomorrow and trouble shooting VTS on another ski. Last night I did try out my new scan tool. I was able to power up the fuel pump and command the injectors on one at a time. They both have a really nice spray pattern. I still want to soak and clean them up a bit. When I drained the gas and oil I really think that was the cause of this motor to fail. The oil was weird looking and had a weird smell to it. didn't even feel right. And the gas smelt really old. It is nice draining a tank when you can turn the fuel pump on and stick the end of the fuel hose in a container.
 
Maybe the weird oil smell was an ammonia smell, the hydrazine detergent package in TCW3 outboard oils have this ammonia odor.

And yep, stale fuel will eat a 2-stroke alive, pretty quickly.
 
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Maybe the weird oil smell was an ammonia smell, the hydrazine detergent package in TCW3 outboard oils have this ammonia odor.

And yep, stale fuel will eat a 2-stroke alive, pretty quickly.

Funny you say that, the oil did smell like some type of cleaner. And I think I mentioned before earlier in the thread that when i disconnected the oil line from the oil inj pump, the oil was thick and "plopped" out the line.
And the gas I can def smell is bad.
 
Well after months of putting it off I finally got back on it the last few weeks. And thanks to the service manual helping me figure out what goes where with all the hoses and lines and thanks to tonka for getting me a few things to finish it up I got it fired up tonight!!! Only let it run for a few seconds. My neighbors never complain and don't want to start giving them a reason too. Now I'm anxious for tomorrow after work to come so I can wheel it outside. Plus I found a really cool feature with my new scanner. Haven't tried it but it has oil priming mode. When you go into this mode it's supposed to let you hold wot while running and the motor stay at idle so you can have the oil pump wide open to get oil to the motor. Can't wait to try it out.
 
Well after months of putting it off I finally got back on it the last few weeks. And thanks to the service manual helping me figure out what goes where with all the hoses and lines and thanks to tonka for getting me a few things to finish it up I got it fired up tonight!!! Only let it run for a few seconds. My neighbors never complain and don't want to start giving them a reason too. Now I'm anxious for tomorrow after work to come so I can wheel it outside. Plus I found a really cool feature with my new scanner. Haven't tried it but it has oil priming mode. When you go into this mode it's supposed to let you hold wot while running and the motor stay at idle so you can have the oil pump wide open to get oil to the motor. Can't wait to try it out.
Whats the scanner your using?
Can-do ?
 
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