2002 DI Head Bolt Removal

[etemplet]

I can't move these head bolts at all. What a crappy design for the cap screw head (male Torx). You can't get any torque on these things they strip so easy. This isn't my first rodeo with Seadoo stuck bolts, I've been though this many times. I need to get some real heat down to the threaded area of the bolt. I've read a post on here about someone recommended connecting a battery to the top of the bolt and grounding the engine. Years ago my wife showed me a tool that did the same thing and I said I didn't need it. LOL I've also heard of heating the bolt with a welding machine and a friend of mine knew about it. So, for myself and people on the forum I'd like to discuss the best method for removing the bolts. I had a DI a couple of months ago with the same issue and I just sent the engine out for a complete overhaul. Gotta be a way.

I felt pretty lucky that everything else came off. Lots of calcium deposits and tedious disassembly.

 

[JC-SUPERJET]

Is there any risk of the Electrical Current passing thru the Crank and CB Bearings and arcing, causing damage to the Ball Bearing Surfaces?

 

[etemplet]

That shouldn't be an issue with a good strong ground in the correct location.

 

[JC-SUPERJET]

What about heating the entire Engine Short Block (minus Electronics, Carbs, etc.) in an Oven for a few hours at about 350F to 400F?

The Cylinder Sleeves may slide, but it might be worth a try...

 

[etemplet]

I want to avoid heating the complete engine. At one time I wanted to try dropping an engine in a big pot with oil and heating it to about 400 degrees and holding it there for a few hours. There has to be a reliable method as lots of instances you can't pull parts. I'm gonna try the battery or welding machine method when I have some time. I live down south so lots of skis have stuck bolts and won't come apart.

Some of the engine shops heat the whole engine like you suggested and that works consistently for them.
Thanks for the input !!