2001 XP carbs and oil injection

[StRanger]

I'm a new forum member and also a new SeaDoo owner. I bought a 2001 SeaDoo XP for a bargain price, because it wasn't running quite right. The owner said it was bogging down in mid-range RPMs. He was told by a mechanic that the problem was most likely the accelerator pumps.

So I bought a couple carb kits and set out to rebuild the carbs myself. After 20 minutes of head-scratching and wrenches not fitting on bolts, I decided I needed some help. Can anyone tell me the process for removing the carbs??? I can't even get near them! Every time I try to remove something, I find a hidden bolt that the wrench won't get to.

Second issue...The XP has been converted to premix. I did some searching on this forum and found out that the oil tank should still be kept full to lubricate the jet pump. The oil lines look dry to me and I can't find anything resembling an oil tank. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place? Where should it be, and what should I check to make sure the conversion is done right. Or, should I convert it back to oil injection?

Lots of questions, I know. By the way, there isn't a SeaDoo dealer within a three hour drive, and the local boat shops won't touch it. I'm doing it myself whether I want to or not! Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

 

[DCKD]

I am sure you will get lots of replies to these questions....I don't know anything about the 2-strokes so I can't help with that...sorry!

What I can say is that it would probably be a good idea for you to get your hands on the shop manual for you doo if you plan on doing all the work yourself!

Matt

 

[StRanger]

Ok, first update. I think I figured out where the oil tank was supposed to be (in the front of the engine compartment on the left side). Its entirely gone. Is that a bad thing? Sorry for the dumb questions, but my mechanical experience is with cars and 4 stroke boat engines, not PWCs.

 

[nswillin]

Hey stranger. Welcome to the forum. Getting to the carbs on the XP 951 is a huge pain unless you remove the tuned pipe. You get that thing off and it's a cinch. I'm sure somebody will tell you they have done it w/o taking this off but trust me life will be a lot easier if you do.

You will need a special wrench to get to the bottom nut of the tuned pipe where it bolts onto the manifold. I made one by bending and grinding a wrench but have since bought one. SBT has them for $15. Good investment if you plan on keeping this thing for a while.

The jet pump is lubricated by it's own oil at the nose cone of the housing. People are saying to leave the line hooked up for premix to keep the Rotary Valve lubed up, not the jet pump, but your engine does not have a Rotary Valve so your good there.

They probably removed the oil pump and tank. I would keep running premix since it's already set up for it, going to cost you a lot for a new tank and pump.

I would highly recommend you joining as a premium member. With the membership you get access to all the seadoo BRB shop manuals that will have step by step instruction on everything, including pictures, wire diagrams, torque specs, tech data, and more. Plus you get first dibs on all questions.

 

[kustomkarl]

Welcome to the seadoo forum StRanger. The oil tank should be in plain sight. The oil pump is a good idea as it is a a variable rate injector pump. It will pump oil at a specific rate and not waste oil as or foul spark plugs as a pre-mix system will do. I don't have a manual at hand to know if you have a rotary valve system or not. If you do, you need to keep the oil lines filled with 2 stroke oil so it will lube the rotary valve gear shaft assy.

Here's an idea to think about... you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[StRanger]

Thanks for the warm welcome! I finally managed to get my electronic shop manual to open (couldn't read the password). The shop manual makes the carb removal process seem easy, but my 30 minutes of experience so far seems to have proved otherwise. I may have to just buy that wrench to make things easier. I'm already bleeding and rather annoyed!

 

[StRanger]

Whew! An hour and a half, three bleeding knuckles, and several F-bombs later, the carbs are out. Tonight...drink beer. Tomorrow...rebuild and reinstall.

 

[kustomkarl]

Glad you made some progress...just think the next time how easy it will be. If you get in a bind give us a shout, and I'm sure you'll get a quick response.

Karl

 

[StRanger]

Rebuilt most of the carbs today. The accelerator pump diaphragms were indeed shot. Unfortunately, I discovered I wasn't the first one to open up these carbs. Some bumbling dimwit apparently didn't know how to select a correctly sized screwdriver. The heads on the screws that hold the valve assembly are completely destroyed on one carb, and the screw that holds the needle valve in place was almost ruined too. Luckily, Seadoowarehouse has replacements. No running Seadoo for at least another week.