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2001 seadoo xp

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jcleary93

jcleary93

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Hi so i just got a 2001 seadoo XP 2 stroke. I know nothing about these machines
Its been sittig for a few years.. Engine doesn't turnover just cranks i think it just needs
Fresh gas and carbs cleaned

When i connect the key i get 2 beeps and
Then sometimes i get this noise that sounds
Like a whistle coming from where the battery is.
Its a pretty loud noise i havent been able to pinpoint
The exact location yet. The noise will start up right when key
Is connected and will randomly stop. If the key is left connected
Sometimes the whistling will come back for a few seconds then stop without me
Doing anything.
If i hit the start button the engine cranks and the whistle will keep going
Sometimes it will whistle while im
Cranking the engine sometimes not.

Anybody have a clue what this whistle noise could be?
It isn't a grinding noise it is a whistle sounds just like if someone blew into a whistle
Any helps greatly appreciated!
 
jcleary93 said:
Hi so i just got a 2001 seadoo XP 2 stroke. I know nothing about these machines
Its been sittig for a few years.. Engine doesn't turnover just cranks i think it just needs
Fresh gas and carbs cleaned

When i connect the key i get 2 beeps and
Then sometimes i get this noise that sounds
Like a whistle coming from where the battery is.
Its a pretty loud noise i havent been able to pinpoint
The exact location yet. The noise will start up right when key
Is connected and will randomly stop. If the key is left connected
Sometimes the whistling will come back for a few seconds then stop without me
Doing anything.
If i hit the start button the engine cranks and the whistle will keep going
Sometimes it will whistle while im
Cranking the engine sometimes not.

Anybody have a clue what this whistle noise could be?
It isn't a grinding noise it is a whistle sounds just like if someone blew into a whistle
Any helps greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

Hmm never heard of a whistle before. Are you sure it ain't coming from the beeper? We almost need a video
 
The fact that it turns over is a good thing.

First,,, I repeat, FIRST,,,, do a compression test. Lets see what the numbers are.

If they are good, we can get you running. You will need to replace the Grey Tempo fuel lines if you have them, clean or replace the fuel selector, clean/rebuild the carbs and the plastic filters inside the carbs. But,,, none of this matters too much depending on the compression test.

A whistling sound is normally a battery that is failing and can't vent well. Check the vent out to see if it is plugged up. They normally need replaced when they get to the whistling point...
 
boy, my first thought, and i'm stretching here, is maybe a bilge pump kicking in ? if there is one, you could probably spot it through the rear hatch. have somebody put the key in while your in the back.

second thought, again, stretching... is if this happens ONLY when your cranking is maybe something to do with the bearings/driveshaft ? I remember hearing a whistle type sound on an xp before right before the carbon seal popped once, but that was when it was actually running.

past that, i'm at a complete loss, unless its a bizarre air leak somewhere in the exhaust/intake, but that most definitely would not occur just when popping the key on.

my best guess if its happening immediately before cranking is a bilge, unless there is a weird electrical thing going on in the rear box or with the battery...

edit... just saw joe's post after I hit enter......

ya maybe the battery vent, its a safe place to start if its an old battery it will need replacing anyway, so replacing it with a known good one, (and an AGM would be nice, no vent needed, so that eliminate's that all together)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Im thinkin Spimothy hit it when he said "bilge pump". It is in the rear with the battery. :cheers:
 
Thank you for all the great replies!

I dont think the problem is the battery
as i took the battery in it out of my motorcycle
And it was fine then.

Could possibly be a bilge pump? Im not even sure if it has 1 though
Also this whistle will start as soon as key is attached without
Touching the start button.. Would the bilge be activated then?

Im going to Sears right now to buy a compression tester. Will update tonight
 
this is definatley an xp right ?

140.jpg
 
Minnetonka4me said:
Yup its the bilge...they turn on as soon as you put the key on.
Click to expand...

So does the bilge need replacing would you say? Or is it
Just whistling due to no water being present to pump out.
Is there a fuse i can pull or can i unhook the bilge to verify that this
Is the cause? Thank you!!!!
 
you can just unplug it. the connector is above the rear lower shock mount, which also contains the drive-shaft supports.
 
Alright, so im home from work and unplugged the bilge pump, whistling has stopped.

I checked the compression in each cylinder and got 90 and 70. :l..
Although when i checked the battery was dying out and the compression tester
has a shorter length and doesnt go down as deep into the cylinder as the spark plug does, could that make a difference?
Also the jetski was cold.. and hasnt ran for 3 years... am i going to need to rebuild engine?
 
Most likely...you said though you just bought the tester. Make sure you are using it correctly.

Should be 130 on the 951s if I remember correctly.
 
You need a fresh battery and make sure the compression tester threads all the way into the spark plug holes. 135 is perfect on a 951.
 
Fresh battery.

Depth into the cylinder means nothing as long as it is sealed.

Did I mention fresh battery. This is a MUST.
 
agreed, I'd also retest, but the different between the cylinders is more important than the PSI in each... even if one was a perfect 135, and the other 100... that engine's coming out.

And being 13 years old... you don't want to rebuild part of it. (You want to rebuild all of it).

I hope you didn't pay for a "running" ski, but in any case, we can get you moving again. I've done more 951 swaps than I can count.
 
The fresh battery will be the answer. I say his as, if the battery was low to begin with, there is a chance the second cylinder read lower due to the decreasing battery performance.

I still feel you will be doing engine work. But you want to KNOW, not guess,,,
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I think the second cylinder is lower because the
battery was alot closer to dead when i checked that one.

I am going to get fresh battery and recheck I dont think those
First readings were accurate.

And i paid $400 for the ski so no i didnt pay for a running ski :p
 
Yeah cant really go wrong for $400 shes in pretty good shape to.
Ill update this weekend on how the compression test goes this time

Here's a pic of the ski
170.jpg
 
Well done, that is a sweet looking unit for $400. Like the guys said, even if you have to have a rebuild done you will only be into it for about 2k with a brand new motor, which IMO is a great deal on a great ski.
 
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