2001 Sea Doo Challenger 240EFI M2 Sport Jet Starts, Runs, Won't Restart

[Blackbartman]

Hello,

My 2001 Challenger starts immediately every single time and runs wide open at about 46 mph. It smokes pretty badly at idle and makes a cloud across the lake. When we stop and kill the engine to swim or whatever, it simply WILL NOT start unless it sits for a few hours. Then it starts immediately again every time. There doesn't seem to be anyone locally that knows anything about these boats. One guy told me it is likely the TPS.

Where the F&$^ on the boat is the TPS? Part diagrams on-line suck. It is almost impossible to verify which part I might need as I can't physically see it. I found this one which seems to be a good price, but is it the right one? Supposedly it is but I CANNOT find this on the engine anywhere.

New OEM Mercury Throttle Position Indicator TPI 8M6005165 S/S 83295211 | eBay

There is a filter on the starboard side of the engine with a wire on the bottom - is that a fuel filter / water separator? Could this be a source of the problem? Any reliable mechanics in New Hampshire, Mass, Vermont or Maine?

Help!

 

[Blackbartman]

Last year another user posted this:

"I read the book again and find out that if the regulator on the vst wasn't working that also would also cause too much pressure delivered to the injectors therefore engine will flood. I checked the regulator and changed the vacuum hose apparently it was clogged and that resolved. I did turn it off started it back on like 4 times, the rest is to try it in the water hoping that was the problem. I don't know if I still have problem with my injectors , I recall the book mention that without the regulator the pump can deliver up to 90 psi of pressure. I guess that was too much for the injector to stay closed.
I will update over the weekend, thank you so much all for your advices."

Can anyone tell me where the vst is and which hose is the vacuum hose?

 

[poppie]

Definitely sounds like a bad regulator or leaking injectors. Most likely leaking injectors flooding the engine. Getting them serviced is relatively cheap and a good place to start. First thing though would be to check fuel pressure. There is a tire valve on top of the vst tank. It should read around 36 psi.

 

[Blackbartman]

Definitely sounds like a bad regulator or leaking injectors. Most likely leaking injectors flooding the engine. Getting them serviced is relatively cheap and a good place to start. First thing though would be to check fuel pressure. There is a tire valve on top of the vst tank. It should read around 36 psi.

Thanks. Yes, I did that and am getting good fuel pressure. How hard is removal of the injectors? Can you tell me where are they specifically on the engine?

 

[Shortrun]

after you drive the boat and then shut it down, do you let it idle for at least 30 seconds to 1 minute before turning it off?

We had problems with hot restart, but if we let it idle a bit then no problem

 

[Tim75]

Hello,

My 2001 Challenger starts immediately every single time and runs wide open at about 46 mph. It smokes pretty badly at idle and makes a cloud across the lake. When we stop and kill the engine to swim or whatever, it simply WILL NOT start unless it sits for a few hours. Then it starts immediately again every time. There doesn't seem to be anyone locally that knows anything about these boats. One guy told me it is likely the TPS.

Where the F&$^ on the boat is the TPS? Part diagrams on-line suck. It is almost impossible to verify which part I might need as I can't physically see it. I found this one which seems to be a good price, but is it the right one? Supposedly it is but I CANNOT find this on the engine anywhere.

New OEM Mercury Throttle Position Indicator TPI 8M6005165 S/S 83295211 | eBay

There is a filter on the starboard side of the engine with a wire on the bottom - is that a fuel filter / water separator? Could this be a source of the problem? Any reliable mechanics in New Hampshire, Mass, Vermont or Maine?

Help!

Can't find what's not there. Wrong tps. You have the $600 one. Starboard side, down low, on the bottom throttle shaft. About 3/4" dia. with 3 wires to a flat connector. Fairly easy to test. Many threads here about it. You will need engine serial number to order the right one.

The filter you refer to is the fuel / water separater. The wire connects to a device that electrically senses water in the bottom of the filter. Beeps with water in the filter. Should not be a problem, unless it is full of water. Remove it and dump it into container and look for water drops.

If your fuel pressure is now 36psi, you could still have issues. Stuck open injectors can flood the engine and cause the "blue cloud". Injectors suck closed, poor spray pattern, dribblers, etc. Injectors are behind the throttle body. About 14 screws, plus some wires. Remember- your injectors are 20 years old. About $25 each to have them serviced on a flow bench. About $750 for a new set.

The vst is the cast housing on the port side. Electric pump inside is the one that builds injector pressure.

 

[Blackbartman]

after you drive the boat and then shut it down, do you let it idle for at least 30 seconds to 1 minute before turning it off?

We had problems with hot restart, but if we let it idle a bit then no problem

Not usually, because of all the effing smoke it makes at idle.

 

[Blackbartman]

Can't find what's not there. Wrong tps. You have the $600 one. Starboard side, down low, on the bottom throttle shaft. About 3/4" dia. with 3 wires to a flat connector. Fairly easy to test. Many threads here about it. You will need engine serial number to order the right one.

The filter you refer to is the fuel / water separater. The wire connects to a device that electrically senses water in the bottom of the filter. Beeps with water in the filter. Should not be a problem, unless it is full of water. Remove it and dump it into container and look for water drops.

If your fuel pressure is now 36psi, you could still have issues. Stuck open injectors can flood the engine and cause the "blue cloud". Injectors suck closed, poor spray pattern, dribblers, etc. Injectors are behind the throttle body. About 14 screws, plus some wires. Remember- your injectors are 20 years old. About $25 each to have them serviced on a flow bench. About $750 for a new set.

The vst is the cast housing on the port side. Electric pump inside is the one that builds injector pressure.

First - thank you for all the info. Would you happen to have a picture of where the injectors are? I know what a throttle body is but on this engine, I can't find $h!t.

 

[ripcuda]

First - thank you for all the info. Would you happen to have a picture of where the injectors are? I know what a throttle body is but on this engine, I can't find $h!t.

Look at this ebay listing: Mercury EFI Injectors/VST

It is the same as on your engine. The forward most part of the engine is the tall black ECU. Behind the ECU is this intake/throttle-bodies/injectors plate. On its port side is the VST tank attached (also seen in pic). On the starboard side is the fuel water filter/separator. The TPS is also on this plate on the lower starboard side. The air temp sensor is on the upper starboard side.

 

[Shortrun]

Did you check the spark plugs? take a picture of all 6 and lets us see, if you can.

 

[Poormanracing]

Those are a nightmare to work on.the ignition on those the coils share voltage from each other like a capacitor.excess voltage is stored for the next firing order.now those have an electric lift pump when key is on the lift pump pulls fuel into the vst.then the vst has a high pressure pump to injectors.the ignition works off of battery not the charging system.if you have a perfect battery it will run.if you had to charge the battery then the battery needs replacement.

 

[Poormanracing]

When you try and restart it do you have spark.if you have low voltage it will turn over fast injectors will squirt but the ignition won't spark.start with a good battery.load test the one that's in there at any auto parts store will do it.while there get a cheap spark tester.i worked at a sea Doo dealership when these where sold and work on these till this day.do the basics first before you start taking things apart and making more of a mess

 

[Blackbartman]

When you try and restart it do you have spark.if you have low voltage it will turn over fast injectors will squirt but the ignition won't spark.start with a good battery.load test the one that's in there at any auto parts store will do it.while there get a cheap spark tester.i worked at a sea Doo dealership when these where sold and work on these till this day.do the basics first before you start taking things apart and making more of a mess

The battery is new in 2020 and very strong. I'm leaning toward injectors at this point.

 

[Blackbartman]

Did you check the spark plugs? take a picture of all 6 and lets us see, if you can.

I will do that. They foul pretty quickly and the boat makes a lot of smoke on idle.

 

[Poormanracing]

The battery is new in 2020 and very strong. I'm leaning toward injectors at this point.

Wal Mart battery or good name brand was battery on a battery tender in The off season.i work at a dealership and had alot of cheap battery's that have crapped out in the middle of the season.if You brought the boat in to us the first thing we would do is put a new battery in then lake test it with a few testing tools.and on the efi the ignition fires and some of the power helps fire off the next cyl and the next and the next and so on

 

[Blackbartman]

Wal Mart battery or good name brand was battery on a battery tender in The off season.i work at a dealership and had alot of cheap battery's that have crapped out in the middle of the season.if You brought the boat in to us the first thing we would do is put a new battery in then lake test it with a few testing tools.and on the efi the ignition fires and some of the power helps fire off the next cyl and the next and the next and so on

12.6 volts is 12.6 volts though. Battery isn't the issue.

 

[Poormanracing]

Just so you know volts mean nothing have had a battery have 12.6 and be junk you need amps.when you fire it up watch your meter and are you loosing spark.have worked on alot of v6 merc efis and have not had many injectors fail.even on our race motors

 

[Blackbartman]

Just so you know volts mean nothing have had a battery have 12.6 and be junk you need amps.when you fire it up watch your meter and are you loosing spark.have worked on alot of v6 merc efis and have not had many injectors fail.even on our race motors

So, could I test this by putting a good jump pack on the battery?

 

[Blackbartman]

Wal Mart battery or good name brand was battery on a battery tender in The off season.i work at a dealership and had alot of cheap battery's that have crapped out in the middle of the season.if You brought the boat in to us the first thing we would do is put a new battery in then lake test it with a few testing tools.and on the efi the ignition fires and some of the power helps fire off the next cyl and the next and the next and so on

Don't remember the battery name just now (boat is covered) but yes, battery was pulled from the boat and on a tender all winter. The battery is very strong cranks for several minutes trying to start the boat. Doesn't seem like a battery problem to me. Boat is very smoky at idle - no matter cold or hot. I guess that could be amps as well with alternator turning slowly but it runs great when running. Many on here think injectors could be culprit.

 

[ripcuda]

I have same boat and engine. And, unfortunately, the same issue as you. In my case, it is the injectors leaking when I shut the engine off causing a flooded restart condition. If I wait long enough for flooded fuel to evap... it starts up fine (just like it does when cold).

I have normal 36psi fuel pressure anytime starting/running. But right after turning off the engine, within 15 seconds my fuel pressure has dropped to zero. Leaking injectors. Should hold fuel pressure in the rail for many minutes. I also confirmed, with an inductive timing light, that when attempting a hot restart (when it won't restart) that I am getting spark to the plugs. Plus, I have new plugs and a new battery and a new trigger (my original problem when I bought it).

With the battery, standing voltage is one thing... voltage drop *while* cranking is the bigger deal. You don't want a drop below the mid 10's (volts) while cranking... or ignition my not be sparking.

As for your smoking problem at idle. Are you still oil injecting (or switched to premix)? If still using the stock oil injection... there is linkage from throttle to oil pump. Perhaps yours is out of adjustment. Service manual details proper adjusting.

Cheers!

 

[Tim75]

I have same boat and engine. And, unfortunately, the same issue as you. In my case, it is the injectors leaking when I shut the engine off causing a flooded restart condition. If I wait long enough for flooded fuel to evap... it starts up fine (just like it does when cold).

I have normal 36psi fuel pressure anytime starting/running. But right after turning off the engine, within 15 seconds my fuel pressure has dropped to zero. Leaking injectors. Should hold fuel pressure in the rail for many minutes. I also confirmed, with an inductive timing light, that when attempting a hot restart (when it won't restart) that I am getting spark to the plugs. Plus, I have new plugs and a new battery and a new trigger (my original problem when I bought it).

With the battery, standing voltage is one thing... voltage drop *while* cranking is the bigger deal. You don't want a drop below the mid 10's (volts) while cranking... or ignition my not be sparking.

As for your smoking problem at idle. Are you still oil injecting (or switched to premix)? If still using the stock oil injection... there is linkage from throttle to oil pump. Perhaps yours is out of adjustment. Service manual details proper adjusting.

Cheers!

A misadjusted or failing tps can also cause floodiing and excess smoke. It can signal the ECU for full fuel at idle. Engine can flood and not restart until most of the gas in the crankcase evaporates.

 

[cbjustDOOit]

Just a thought while you test it....we had the same issues with leaking injectors. sent them out and fixed the issue.
Have you tried turning the steering wheel all the way to engage the docking throttle bump when you hot start it? It worked for us for the weekend before we gave it to the mechanic.

 

[Blackbartman]

Just a thought while you test it....we had the same issues with leaking injectors. sent them out and fixed the issue.
Have you tried turning the steering wheel all the way to engage the docking throttle bump when you hot start it? It worked for us for the weekend before we gave it to the mechanic.

That used to work ok but stopped working. Now I have to crank it for many minutes to get it to fire. I believe if I could give it throttle it would start right up but I would need to disconnect the neutral throttle lockout.

 

[AirSniper]

That used to work ok but stopped working. Now I have to crank it for many minutes to get it to fire. I believe if I could give it throttle it would start right up but I would need to disconnect the neutral throttle lockout.

Hold the steering wheel to left/right bump setting while starting

 

[ripcuda]

I just pulled my injectors out and boxed them up. Sending them out to Brucato FIS for servicing. Really hoping this will fix my issue.

If you have a leaking injector, can it leak only when hot? My flooding restart (leaking injector) issue only happens when the engine is hot. But the injectors (fuel pressure tested) don't seem to leak when cold.