I have a 2000 seadoo xp and it has been sitting for a little over a year. I replaced the starter, had the carbs rebuilt, and put a new battery in right before i went to crank it but all it does when I hit the start button is click. Sometimes the starter will click once and other times it will repeat "click click click click". It sounds as if the motor is seized up and will not turn over when the starter tries to turn. Any Ideas???
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2000 xp wont crank
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If you are getting power to the starter, the solenoid is working properly. To turn the engine by hand, remove the spark plugs and the PTO cover at the rear of the engine and turn the PTO flywheel by hand. On your model, it's a little tricky to remove the cover but it can be done.
Chester
Chester
popasodatastie
New Member
Testing Things
ok to test the voltage regulator you will need a multimeter and turn it to the 12volt setting first test the power on the battery it should be around 12.6 volts. Next in you electrical box open the panel should have a regulator that attaches to the positive lead to the battery check the voltage it should be the same as the battery on one side. Next hit the start botton with the leads of the voltage meter red to regulator and black to ground or negitive post of battery. When the is attached the power on the other side of regulator should usually read 11.5 to 12.4 volts. and it should be good if it still doesn't work take the starter out and check it by hooking a battery charger to it and seeing if it turns. just remember red to positive lead on starter and black to body of starter. and it should turn with 12 volts 2 amps. if not replace. let me know what happens send me a private message and i'll help you more. good luck!
ok to test the voltage regulator you will need a multimeter and turn it to the 12volt setting first test the power on the battery it should be around 12.6 volts. Next in you electrical box open the panel should have a regulator that attaches to the positive lead to the battery check the voltage it should be the same as the battery on one side. Next hit the start botton with the leads of the voltage meter red to regulator and black to ground or negitive post of battery. When the is attached the power on the other side of regulator should usually read 11.5 to 12.4 volts. and it should be good if it still doesn't work take the starter out and check it by hooking a battery charger to it and seeing if it turns. just remember red to positive lead on starter and black to body of starter. and it should turn with 12 volts 2 amps. if not replace. let me know what happens send me a private message and i'll help you more. good luck!
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His model doesn't have a rear electrical box. The test you describe is for the starter solenoid and should be OK as he says that he gets power to the stater when he presses the start button.
Chester
ok chester, just finished taking the PTO cover off and tried turning the flywheel but it wouldnt move. I'm not too sure how easy it's supposed to turn but i couldn't get it to budge. I sprayed some WD-40 on it but it still wont turn. Could i get a pipe wrench on it or will that do some damage??
With the plugs out, you should be able to turn it by hand very easily. Was there any water and/or rust on the tips of the spark plugs? Just to make sure the jet pump isn't locked up, remove it. If you still can't turn it, I suspect the engine is locked up. Most likely from rusty cylinders and bearings. Pull the head off and inspect the cylinders & pistons. You can also remove the RAVE valves to see the sides of the pistons.
Chester
Chester
Is it something i can do myself? Also I've spent a few hours looking around for rebuild kits on numerous web sites and cant make up my mind. Would it be better to buy a reman'd engine or just rebuild mine? Any recommendations on kits or engines? My budget is basically ZERO because i'm in the military and dont have a whole lot of cash laying around. Also is there a way to get a rebuild manual online anywhere or do i have to become a premium member here?
I recommend doing it yourself if you have some tools and a little bit of mechanical ability. If you don't mind sacrificing some performance and don't care then you can go with SBT...but I don't recommend that----EVER!!
We'll help you with the rebuild and you can get manuals here if you become a premium member.
We'll help you with the rebuild and you can get manuals here if you become a premium member.
Well I'm a diesel mechanic for the navy but as i've found out, these are 2 wayy different worlds. So the mechanical skill is there but for the know-how on this, not so much. SBT was just about the only place i've seen for replacement engines but again, i havent been looking for years so i dont know any of the good websites. Any ideas on where to get a complete rebuild kit from??
timmyboy76
New Member
ebay...
keep an eye out for this company on ebay...they have a complete rebuild kit for the 951 for $529.00 shipped. I used one in first boat, and worked awesome..."Playtime Powersports". They list new assy's, around every 2-3 days..
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/playtimepowersports_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
keep an eye out for this company on ebay...they have a complete rebuild kit for the 951 for $529.00 shipped. I used one in first boat, and worked awesome..."Playtime Powersports". They list new assy's, around every 2-3 days..
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/playtimepowersports_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Take it apart and see how your crank is before you start making your list of parts you might need. I'm certain you'll be able to rebuild your own Doo motor if you're a Navy engineman. I have some pics of what you can expect if you decide to try an SBT motor. You ought to know what they put into some of their motors and IMO why they don't like you to take them apart.
SBT motors....
Doc, I've sided with you on 99% of your postings but on this one, I"m going to have to disagree. I have ordered (I think I'm up to 11) many engines from SBT, mostly 717's and 787's and have never had any of them break down due to some negligent rebuild on their behalf. I just ordered, I think my 11th 787cc engine from them this past week. I'm replacing the engine in a 1998 Speedster.
What they put in their engines does not matter to me. That they build them as advertised does. With them honoring a one or two year warranty on their remanafactured engines, that speaks for itself. If someone had some shady business practice and was only looking to get your money, they would not offer the "no fault" warranty.
I'm not saying they make a "perfect" motor rebuild, just one they will stand behind. In all fairness, I had a counterbalance shaft in one that went south. It was a pain in the butt to pull and re-ship, but they took care of me (or the girl I did the work for) without asking many questions at all. They did ask if I used the break-in oil.
The other thing I'm looking at is feasibility. This guy is in the Navy. I spent 9 years as an engineer and know far to well what kind of time he has and the limited facility he'll probably be working at. With his time always uncertain, he'll want to get this motor pulled, remove the sub-systems and when the new one arrives, ..........put that puppy back in and be on his merry way.
I'd just recommend you keep all your packaging and receipts for at least that one year, until the warranty expires.
If you have any problems or further advice, .............as a fellow squid, you PM me with anything you need. I'm here for you my brother.:cheers:
Doc, I've sided with you on 99% of your postings but on this one, I"m going to have to disagree. I have ordered (I think I'm up to 11) many engines from SBT, mostly 717's and 787's and have never had any of them break down due to some negligent rebuild on their behalf. I just ordered, I think my 11th 787cc engine from them this past week. I'm replacing the engine in a 1998 Speedster.
What they put in their engines does not matter to me. That they build them as advertised does. With them honoring a one or two year warranty on their remanafactured engines, that speaks for itself. If someone had some shady business practice and was only looking to get your money, they would not offer the "no fault" warranty.
I'm not saying they make a "perfect" motor rebuild, just one they will stand behind. In all fairness, I had a counterbalance shaft in one that went south. It was a pain in the butt to pull and re-ship, but they took care of me (or the girl I did the work for) without asking many questions at all. They did ask if I used the break-in oil.
The other thing I'm looking at is feasibility. This guy is in the Navy. I spent 9 years as an engineer and know far to well what kind of time he has and the limited facility he'll probably be working at. With his time always uncertain, he'll want to get this motor pulled, remove the sub-systems and when the new one arrives, ..........put that puppy back in and be on his merry way.
I'd just recommend you keep all your packaging and receipts for at least that one year, until the warranty expires.
If you have any problems or further advice, .............as a fellow squid, you PM me with anything you need. I'm here for you my brother.:cheers:
I'm a fellow squid too. Spent 4 years from deck up to the signal bridge. We're all here to help. But I stand behind my opinion on SBT. Just the way they recut the head/squishband will result in a net loss of torque/horsepower.
In fact, I'll go one further Chevy, take your motor out, send it to me, I'll rebuild it for the same price as SBT will and give you a warranty on it too. But I'll use a Hot Rods crank, Pro-X pistons and OEM gaskets.
In fact, I'll go one further Chevy, take your motor out, send it to me, I'll rebuild it for the same price as SBT will and give you a warranty on it too. But I'll use a Hot Rods crank, Pro-X pistons and OEM gaskets.
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