2000 seadoo challenger 2000 wont start

[Tim75]

you will need to get the wiring schematic from the shop manual. The colour of the wire will give you some direction where it should go.

The wire to the bottom of the fuel filter should have a blue end. It goes to the water-in-fuel alarm box at the bottom of the ECU.

It sounds like the dreaded TPS. When it fails, ecu pulls fuel/air to full rich. Basically, it can flood the engine. Try holding WOT, and crank with key OFF for a few seconds. Back to idle. Try cranking again. Check that all the bleed system hoses are in place. Check MAP hose from back of ECU.

 

[NickHosse]

The wire to the bottom of the fuel filter should have a blue end. It goes to the water-in-fuel alarm box at the bottom of the ECU.
It sounds like the dreaded TPS. When it fails, ecu pulls fuel/air to full rich. Basically, it can flood the engine. Try holding WOT, and crank with key OFF for a few seconds. Back to idle. Try cranking again. Check that all the bleed system hoses are in place. Check MAP hose from back of ECU.

Thank you! I will check that stuff best I can and get back to you. Wouldn't boat not crank at all if TPS is bad? Is that the same as neutral position sensor or different sensor?

 

[Tim75]

Thank you! I will check that stuff best I can and get back to you. Wouldn't boat not crank at all if TPS is bad? Is that the same as neutral position sensor or different sensor?

TPS is unrelated to neutral interlock.

Engine may crank, but not start. TPS will not prevent cranking. However, it can "flood" the engine and cause "no start" condition.

There are many threads here about checking the TPS. Stupid crazy expensive part.

Has the emergency kill switch been tested?

 

[youssef]

So when I got the engine remanufactured I and they first noticed that cable that was not attached. Later in the day they informed me that my motor had something on it that took that cables place from a later year model engine so that cable was not needed to be hooked up. Is there anything more you may be able to tell me about that? The thing is the boat ran fine for the first 90 minutes of reman break-in. It wasn't until a couple days later that I went out with my wife on it for the first time that we made it out driving for about 5 minutes, then parked...wouldn't start back. After 20 minutes or so of sitting there it started. I drove for about 10 more minutes...it drove great...then stopped and it wouldn't start back. Two of the three 20A fuses was blown in harness on engine block. That was the voltage regulator. I replaced both of voltage regulators and fuses no longer blowing, but now it won't start. Cranks very good and strong. I plan on getting out there and messing with it in next day or two. I am going to go ahead and change in line filters, fuel filter, drive and stator oil, and check spark. What else can I do? What is is sounding like? Think maybe it's the starter solenoid or bad kill switch?

Well one way to make sure it's not a fuel issue since you mention you have a good spark, is to remove the sparks and insert half a syringe of fuel in each cylinder then put the spark back in their place and start the engine. If the problem was fuel delivery issue the engine should start and run for a few second using the fuel you inserted? One more thing after removing the spark plugs and before inserting the fuel turn the engine for few second just to make sure that the engine champers are clean and empty. I am assuming you have a good start because I had this problem once when I was out on the lake and it turned out that the kill switch broke all the sudden and once I disconnected its plug the engine started fine.

 

[youssef]

Thank you! I will check that stuff best I can and get back to you. Wouldn't boat not crank at all if TPS is bad? Is that the same as neutral position sensor or different sensor?

Here is the wiring diagram for the 240 EFI

 

[NickHosse]

Still waiting on new fuel filters, but went out today to just fiddle around on boat. The light brown wire that goes on bottom of water/fuel filter was off. I thought maybe I had found the problem. It started first turn after not trying for over a week. Smoked, but sounds good and normal. Turned it off and tried again....no start

 

[youssef]

Still waiting on new fuel filters, but went out today to just fiddle around on boat. The light brown wire that goes on bottom of water/fuel filter was off. I thought maybe I had found the problem. It started first turn after not trying for over a week. Smoked, but sounds good and normal. Turned it off and tried again....no start

Don't think it has any effect on engine start and run, I removed the water/fuel filter on my boat couple of month ago and it did not make any different and is running fine (Live in Egypt so it is always hot, never snow)

 

[Tim75]

Still waiting on new fuel filters, but went out today to just fiddle around on boat. The light brown wire that goes on bottom of water/fuel filter was off. I thought maybe I had found the problem. It started first turn after not trying for over a week. Smoked, but sounds good and normal. Turned it off and tried again....no start

Check function of kill switch.

Check vst fuel pressure. Should be 36psi. (tire valve on top.)

Is engine flooded from leaking injectors? Remove spark plugs and pull kill switch. Crank engine to clean out excess fuel. Put plugs back in. Connect kill switch. Try cranking again. If you have leaking injectors, there is nothing to do except remove them and have them serviced on a flow bench. About $20 each.

 

[NickHosse]

Check function of kill switch.

Check vst fuel pressure. Should be 36psi. (tire valve on top.)

Is engine flooded from leaking injectors? Remove spark plugs and pull kill switch. Crank engine to clean out excess fuel. Put plugs back in. Connect kill switch. Try cranking again. If you have leaking injectors, there is nothing to do except remove them and have them serviced on a flow bench. About $20 each.

Great! Thanks for that info. That's a possibility. I do not have anyone around here that works on this motor so I am learning as much as I can. What kind of place would I go to that could service injectors?

 

[Tim75]

Great! Thanks for that info. That's a possibility. I do not have anyone around here that works on this motor so I am learning as much as I can. What kind of place would I go to that could service injectors?

yp.com fuel injectors. There should be a shop in every large city. Worth servicing. Merc lists them for $750 per set.

I did not notice what year your engine is. If 2002 or older- visual the wires from the trigger base where they come out from under the flywheel. Merc used some really crappy wire with insulation that would crumble over the years and cause many problems.

The wire that should be on the bottom of the fuel filter will not affect starting.
Set a catch can under vst. Open drain screw. Turn key to ON (NOT start). Fuel should flow continuously from the drain. Can you feel the motor/pump in the vst running? It runs smoothly- as opposed to your lift pump that thump-thumps when you turn the key on. Close drain. Careful- that screw is only brass. Has your vst pump been disconnected? If the wires are connected wrong, the pump will run, but not move fuel.

Very very few places will work on our boats. Hence the reason for this forum.

 

[NickHosse]

I noticed a little water coming from between the powerhead and jet pump. I am checking the torque on the powerhead mounting bolts. There are two bolts that are not accessible because there is a gasket going over the top of bolt preventing putting a socket on it. What do I do?

 

[NickHosse]

I noticed a little water coming from between the powerhead and jet pump. I am checking the torque on the powerhead mounting bolts. There are two bolts that are not accessible because there is a gasket going over the top of bolt preventing putting a socket on it. What do I do?

 

[Tim75]

I noticed a little water coming from between the powerhead and jet pump. I am checking the torque on the powerhead mounting bolts. There are two bolts that are not accessible because there is a gasket going over the top of bolt preventing putting a socket on it. What do I do?

Cut don’t tear the gasket. Don’t overtighten. The adapter casting has been known to corrode thru and leak. Rare.

 

[NickHosse]

I cannot get a torque wrench on the bolt at all. I checked and have 36psi on fuel pump. Engine started fairly easy on hose, but noticed oil on ground under exhaust. Is this normal?

 

[Tim75]

I cannot get a torque wrench on the bolt at all. I checked and have 36psi on fuel pump. Engine started fairly easy on hose, but noticed oil on ground under exhaust. Is this normal?

That goo on the ground will kill your grass. It is, as you have surmised, gas and oil.
Not normal at all. Unless you run a long time or repeatedly at the same spot.

Time to check the injectors.
You will need a fuel system pressure gauge attached to the test port. Turn key ON. Note pressure. Pinch the fuel line coming off the top of the vst. How fast does the pressure drop?
Pinching that hose blocks the fuel from draining back thru the pump. As it leaks down, it either leaks thru the injectors or thru the regulator. Another stupid crazy expensive part. I suspect your leak-down time is going to be seconds instead of a minute. It bet you have at least one leaking injector.

Don't worry about a torque wrench on those nuts. Try a box end. Just try to make them as tight as the other nuts. They must have been installed before the engine was mounted. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! Broken casting in your future.

 

[Tim75]

you will need to get the wiring schematic from the shop manual. The colour of the wire will give you some direction where it should go.

Have you actually eyeballed the throttle plates to make sure they are slightly open? If they are closed, it probably won't start. It involves one person at the helm and one standing on their head (almost) and watching the throttle plates (maybe with a flashlight). One of the reasons no dealer will work on these boats.

 

[NickHosse]

Have you actually eyeballed the throttle plates to make sure they are slightly open? If they are closed, it probably won't start. It involves one person at the helm and one standing on their head (almost) and watching the throttle plates (maybe with a flashlight). One of the reasons no dealer will work on these boats.

I have not tried that. Been a busy week this past week with kid graduating high school. I'm hoping this coming week I can get some of these tests done. I'm leaning towards injectors, but I want to check all possible situations to fix this so I may be able to use the boat I've put so much into without changing everything. I can't express enough how much this forum helps me to learn and I appreciate your insight Tim. Thank you and I'll let you know when I'm able to run some of these tests.

 

[mgoheen]

If you are talking about the fuel separator (as opposed to the fuel filter) yes, a brown wire does connect to the bottom of the filter/sensor. However, I don't believe not having it connected would cause the boat to not run (might get a "beep beep beep" alarm and oil light on dash). Not sure if that happens with the wire off or not.

[oops, replied to earlier note.]

 

[Tim75]

you will need to get the wiring schematic from the shop manual. The colour of the wire will give you some direction where it should go.

The steering assist has nothing to do with your start problem. The same for the wire to the bottom of water sep.

You need a compression test. All plugs out. WOT. Looking for 140psi. I suspect you will find much lower.

Check the tps. MANY threads here about that. It can cause the engine to run full rich and flood the engine (too much gas).

Did the rebuilder service the injectors? They are at least 20 years old. One or more could be sticking open and dumping gas into the engine. Check vst pressure at the tire valve. Key ON, should be 36psi. Turn key OFF. How long does it take for the pressure to drop?

You said the engine cranks fine. If so, it's not your solenoid. What is your battery voltage while cranking?