2000 GTX runs great and then just dies

[cisco kid]

Finally broke down and bought a couple Seadoo's for my boys. Fantastic forum here and much appreciated... Changed plugs, charged battery and first day, we rode all day with no troubles, 64 MPH. Kept fueled and oiled. Next day took it our and cruised for 3-4 minutes and it just died. Restarted immediately and drove great for another couple minutes. Died again. This kept repeating.

I now have two sons ready to play and a sick Seadoo. Any ideas are appreciated!

 

[kustomkarl]

Check the fuel separator for contaminates, and clean as necessary and change the spark plugs for fresh ones.

Karl

 

[cisco kid]

More info

Thanks Karl. Your advice is appreciated I should have been more descriptive... I just replaced the plug 2 days prior and also removed the fuel water seperator and emptied and cleaned. I poked around the rest of the forum and I am leaning towards a problem with the DESS/Post? It acts just like I pulled the lanyard when it dies but it is still snug.

 

[kustomkarl]

It could be the dess post needs cleaning than. Use soap and water. Clean the cap good also. DO NOT apply anything else on the post or the cap The cap has a ROM chip and a magnet in it. If it still gives you problems here are the tests to check it out. It might need a new post. The cap is programmed to the MPEM,(Multi Purpose Electronic Module), and can only be programmed at the seadoo dealer. The post can just be replaced.

Safety Lanyard Switch Verification;
If 2 short beeps are not heard when installing the safety lanyard, disconnect the switch wires.
Safety lanyard removed;
connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It’s an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be “0” ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to “0” ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be “0” ohm

I hope this helps...
Karl

 

[cisco kid]

Thanks again. I will do the cleaning as suggested. I cannot recall if there is beeps or not so will need to verify that. Hope you and the rest of the forum have a safe and fantastic weekend.

 

[cisco kid]

Now what?

Karl-

I cleaned the post and DESS lanyard. Also discovered one of the battery posts was loose. Ran great for 5-10 minutes. Then all of a sudden the power started dropping off until it just died. I limped back to the slip. Looking at the various posts, here is what I would like to get your comments on:

1) Clean Carbs
2) Replace gray fuel lines
3) Clean RAVE

Thanks.

 

[seadoolover]

just died..

You said the ski just died... does it still crank over?

 

[cisco kid]

Thanks for the question.. It started bogging down under acceleration until it died. It would then restart and it was a rough idle back to the dock. Could not get enough acceleration to launch onto the ski launch.

 

[seadoolover]

raves...

It could be the RAVE(Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust)valves are in need of service.The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem

Description of RAVE VALVES are thanks to KUSTOMKARL