Sounds like a Needle is leaking. How does it start when cold?
where can i get a downloadable service manual ?
You are asking the wrong crew for that. We play with SeaDoo.
Really ??? lol. From Dr Honda in an non seadoo PWC subsection of the seadoo forum. very helpful info on this ski so far so i figured id ask. ; P
Reading your other post above... it sounds like it's a little lean... and over-heating.
I would pull the carbs... and check them over. AND... pull the cooling hoses, and blow though them with compressed air. Also, any hard fittings... unthread them, and make sure they aren't clogged.
Reading your other post above... it sounds like it's a little lean... and over-heating.
I would pull the carbs... and check them over. AND... pull the cooling hoses, and blow though them with compressed air. Also, any hard fittings... unthread them, and make sure they aren't clogged.
that's not too bad. I've seen a lot worse over the years.
Get a small stainless steel brush, and buff that clean. It will be fine. would tis cause problems i described , had a ripped clear plastic diaphragm also.
On your ski... the inline filter... is it a one piece unit, or the type with the removable bowl? Yamaha normally used a disposable style, but over the years they changed to a cleanable unit. If it's the bole style... take it apart, and replace the O-ring seal. They are known to leak, and cause fuel issues.
ok so this starts up great runs great until idling or shut off after about half hour or so of use. THEN it needs choke feathering to go and will stall if half throttle for about 5 min then all is good again. Im thinking flooded carb and or cylinder from float and needle issues?? any input
Don't want to frighten you but I have many years experience with these engines both regionally racing and bone stock recreation. Souns like you are lightly seizing one cylinder. This. Will manifest itself exactly as you describe. While I have personally seen many different reasons for this, by far the number one reason was a crank that had twisted a few degrees out of index. In effect this advances the timing in that cylinder causing it to overheat and lightly seize. Cools off and starts but will continue to do this until the repeated light seizures reduce compression and begins to be a very noticeable power deficit.
Don't want to frighten you but I have many years experience with these engines both regionally racing and bone stock recreation. Souns like you are lightly seizing one cylinder. This. Will manifest itself exactly as you describe. While I have personally seen many different reasons for this, by far the number one reason was a crank that had twisted a few degrees out of index. In effect this advances the timing in that cylinder causing it to overheat and lightly seize. Cools off and starts but will continue to do this until the repeated light seizures reduce compression and begins to be a very noticeable power deficit.
ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , heres why. the condition u describe would not imoprove with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period.
"Judy posting common possibilities based on my experiences. Have you checked the one way vent valve for the tank? Air should pass into the tank but not out.
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ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , here's why. the condition u describe would not improve with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period."
or am i mistaken with that statement???
yeah man really appreciate your Obviously, experienced info.. Im just trying to rule out and correctly diagnose.
No havent checked the vent how do u do that , put low pr air to both ends??