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1999 yamaha waverunner 1200xl purchase

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starts good . some feathering of [EDIT]>>>choke with a little throttle. not one turn and fires but pretty easy start
 
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OK back to oil. what is the best and least expensive full synthetic API-TC. i know these dont usually go together but i mean what is the best and then comparable for less money?
 
Sounds like a Needle is leaking. How does it start when cold?

actually starts fairly easily with some choke . and runs well , but after awhile, will stall or bogg with agressive throttle. now needs choke open some at all times to run at its best. recently actually did something different , wouldnt go above 5-7 mph for about 5 minutes after ran for an hour. need a manual!!!
 
Really ??? lol. From Dr Honda in an non seadoo PWC subsection of the seadoo forum. very helpful info on this ski so far so i figured id ask. ; P

OK... you got me.

I have hard manuals for Yamaha. (and most other PWC) but no digital copies. AND, there isn't any on this site.

I don't like to send people in a different direction, but I'd head over to Green Hulk, and ask. I'm sure someone there will have it.
 
Reading your other post above... it sounds like it's a little lean... and over-heating.

I would pull the carbs... and check them over. AND... pull the cooling hoses, and blow though them with compressed air. Also, any hard fittings... unthread them, and make sure they aren't clogged.
 
Reading your other post above... it sounds like it's a little lean... and over-heating.

I would pull the carbs... and check them over. AND... pull the cooling hoses, and blow though them with compressed air. Also, any hard fittings... unthread them, and make sure they aren't clogged.

thanks . jus bustin chopps on other post . :reddevil:
 
Reading your other post above... it sounds like it's a little lean... and over-heating.

I would pull the carbs... and check them over. AND... pull the cooling hoses, and blow though them with compressed air. Also, any hard fittings... unthread them, and make sure they aren't clogged.

pulled them. no obvious damage or obstructions. everything looks normal. will begin to dig deeper as you suggested with hoses and hard fittings.
i did notice one of the butterfly were a slight bit off from the other 2. but really barely noticeable with eye without measuring.
 
crusty 2.jpg some calcification in carbs between diaphragm and where rubber seals are. can this be an issue? i dont see how airtight seal can be. the carb body has alot of calcification and attached to rubber gasket. maintained with this.
 
that's not too bad. I've seen a lot worse over the years.

Get a small stainless steel brush, and buff that clean. It will be fine.


On your ski... the inline filter... is it a one piece unit, or the type with the removable bowl? Yamaha normally used a disposable style, but over the years they changed to a cleanable unit. If it's the bole style... take it apart, and replace the O-ring seal. They are known to leak, and cause fuel issues.
 
that's not too bad. I've seen a lot worse over the years.

Get a small stainless steel brush, and buff that clean. It will be fine. would tis cause problems i described , had a ripped clear plastic diaphragm also.


On your ski... the inline filter... is it a one piece unit, or the type with the removable bowl? Yamaha normally used a disposable style, but over the years they changed to a cleanable unit. If it's the bole style... take it apart, and replace the O-ring seal. They are known to leak, and cause fuel issues.

ok will do. its the one piece. Also the main is 117.5 and pilot is 87.5, both hard to read but i think its what is stamped on them. With dplate , stock airbox, do these jets seem correct , are they stock or should it have been rejetted . should i drill out the airbox for more air or not recommended( what about aftermarket airbox?). can you run the d plate without rejetting. should i bypass the acc pump?
EDIT: shouldnt need to rejet with just the Dplate, will leave the acc pump in operation, those are stock jets, leaving stock air box as is!
 
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IMG_20150817_122915371_HDR (1).jpg stock, right, how many holes and what size do i make.edit nevermind , found out there's no need to change it
 
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I need one clear diaphragm. where can i get parts for the Mikuni I body .edit ordered from Atlantic jet sports
 
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OK SO WHICH IS IT . Do i need to rejet or not with dplate only change???. Just read Riva tech said SHOULD rejet , and another respected tech saic your ok not to with just dplate change?????
 
ok so this starts up great runs great until idling or shut off after about half hour or so of use. THEN it needs choke feathering to go and will stall if half throttle for about 5 min then all is good again. Im thinking flooded carb and or cylinder from float and needle issues?? any input

Don't want to frighten you but I have many years experience with these engines both regionally racing and bone stock recreation. Souns like you are lightly seizing one cylinder. This. Will manifest itself exactly as you describe. While I have personally seen many different reasons for this, by far the number one reason was a crank that had twisted a few degrees out of index. In effect this advances the timing in that cylinder causing it to overheat and lightly seize. Cools off and starts but will continue to do this until the repeated light seizures reduce compression and begins to be a very noticeable power deficit.
 
Don't want to frighten you but I have many years experience with these engines both regionally racing and bone stock recreation. Souns like you are lightly seizing one cylinder. This. Will manifest itself exactly as you describe. While I have personally seen many different reasons for this, by far the number one reason was a crank that had twisted a few degrees out of index. In effect this advances the timing in that cylinder causing it to overheat and lightly seize. Cools off and starts but will continue to do this until the repeated light seizures reduce compression and begins to be a very noticeable power deficit.

i hope not but sounds like a possibility . How common is this. Ill do all other trouble shooting first .there was a torn clear fuel diaphram found and one of the needles needed adjusting.

*** ive gotten mixed answers on this but if the D plate and chip are in use is it NECESSARY to rejet??

PO did not rejet with d plate.
 
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Don't want to frighten you but I have many years experience with these engines both regionally racing and bone stock recreation. Souns like you are lightly seizing one cylinder. This. Will manifest itself exactly as you describe. While I have personally seen many different reasons for this, by far the number one reason was a crank that had twisted a few degrees out of index. In effect this advances the timing in that cylinder causing it to overheat and lightly seize. Cools off and starts but will continue to do this until the repeated light seizures reduce compression and begins to be a very noticeable power deficit.

ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , heres why. the condition u describe would not imoprove with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period.
 
ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , heres why. the condition u describe would not imoprove with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period.


Judy posting common possibilities based on my experiences. Have you checked the one way vent valve for the tank? Air should pass into the tank but not out.
 
Judy posting common possibilities based on my experiences. Have you checked the one way vent valve for the tank? Air should pass into the tank but not out.
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ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , here's why. the condition u describe would not improve with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period."

or am i mistaken with that statement???

yeah man really appreciate your Obviously, experienced info.. Im just trying to rule out and correctly diagnose.
No havent checked the vent how do u do that , put low pr air to both ends??
 
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"
ok im thinking now. dont think this is the problem , here's why. the condition u describe would not improve with the motor at running temp. it will bog for a minute after running for a while and while still running will recover without a cooldown period."

or am i mistaken with that statement???

yeah man really appreciate your Obviously, experienced info.. Im just trying to rule out and correctly diagnose.
No havent checked the vent how do u do that , put low pr air to both ends??

Its easy to access, just remove it an blow through it with your mouth. This gives you a feel for any restriction of flow where a compressor could damage the one way function. Look above the fuel tank inline on the vent line.
 
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