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1999 GTX Limited that has been sitting for 7 years (pics)

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Racerhoze

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Picked this guy up for a REALLY good price. What are things that I NEED to do before even attempting to start the engine on this ski? I was going to drain the fuel and oil and replace with fresh fuel and oil, replace the spark plugs and battery, and perhaps run a can or two of seafoam through the fuel. Do I need to touch the wear rings on the impeller? This ski has less than 100 hours on it. Here are some pics.

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ya sure, fuel tank get it all out, i'd pull carbs, replace fuel lines if they are grey.

does it beep when you put in the key ?

does it even turn if you move the pto by hand ?
 
ya sure, fuel tank get it all out, i'd pull carbs, replace fuel lines if they are grey.

does it beep when you put in the key ?

does it even turn if you move the pto by hand ?
Are you saying "ya sure" to my question if I need to touch the wear rings?

I have not gotten a battery, so I don't know if it beeps or not.

Have not tried to turn the PTO.
 
Are you saying "ya sure" to my question if I need to touch the wear rings?

I have not gotten a battery, so I don't know if it beeps or not.

Have not tried to turn the PTO.

Here's what i would do before taking it to the lake.

1) New battery
2) New spark plugs
3) Drain gas and oil, replace oil filter. Refill both and bleed oil system.
4) Replace gas lines if they are grey, and disassemble and clean the carburetors and fuel selector switch. Chances are they are gummed up from sitting.
5) Change the jet pump oil. When you do that, you can check and see if you need a new wear ring or not.
6) Clean RAVE valves (if this ski has them)

That would be the steps i would do before i would take it to the lake, because more than likely just putting a battery and plugs in it and calling it good would end with a short day and a tow home from to the dock. Get a manual and it will walk you through these steps, they are all pretty easy. It is a good precaution to make sure your ski will be running good/ eliminating potential problems. Probably shouldnt take more than an afternoon and a couple beers to get through all of it.
 
Here's what i would do before taking it to the lake.

1) New battery
2) New spark plugs
3) Drain gas and oil, replace oil filter. Refill both and bleed oil system.
4) Replace gas lines if they are grey, and disassemble and clean the carburetors and fuel selector switch. Chances are they are gummed up from sitting.
5) Change the jet pump oil. When you do that, you can check and see if you need a new wear ring or not.
6) Clean RAVE valves (if this ski has them)

That would be the steps i would do before i would take it to the lake, because more than likely just putting a battery and plugs in it and calling it good would end with a short day and a tow home from to the dock. Get a manual and it will walk you through these steps, they are all pretty easy. It is a good precaution to make sure your ski will be running good/ eliminating potential problems. Probably shouldnt take more than an afternoon and a couple beers to get through all of it.
Where is the cheapest place to get a manual and/or parts? I have worked on tons of BMWs but am new to SeaDoo so I am a bit unfamiliar with parts vendors.
 
Here's what i would do before taking it to the lake.

1) New battery
2) New spark plugs
3) Drain gas and oil, replace oil filter. Refill both and bleed oil system.
4) Replace gas lines if they are grey, and disassemble and clean the carburetors and fuel selector switch. Chances are they are gummed up from sitting.
5) Change the jet pump oil. When you do that, you can check and see if you need a new wear ring or not.
6) Clean RAVE valves (if this ski has them)

That would be the steps i would do before i would take it to the lake, because more than likely just putting a battery and plugs in it and calling it good would end with a short day and a tow home from to the dock. Get a manual and it will walk you through these steps, they are all pretty easy. It is a good precaution to make sure your ski will be running good/ eliminating potential problems. Probably shouldnt take more than an afternoon and a couple beers to get through all of it.

agree with all that, spot on.

heck w/o a battery and hand turning the pto there's no point in even doing much more than planning ahead.

if it beeps and turns freely then the list above applies immediately and i'd add carbs to the list, imo they should be pulled.

edit: honestly it has to be done regardless if the engine is pristine or not, but i wouldn't start doing it until you see where you stand on engine and electronics.

go ahead and pull the airbox, that will kill some time if you've never done that airbox before :)

if it doesn't beep or is locked up, then we move right to plan B :(

general question/statement,

would there be reason to be concerned about a little rust buildup on the cyl's ? an inspection and perhaps a quick hone isn't a terrible idea, no telling the condition of the crank, cyl walls, pistons with it sitting that long, i'd start with two beeps and a pto that turns by hand, then proceed, inspect the cyl's with a flashlight thru the raves.

re: yea sure: ya, you can inspect the wear ring just don't scare the bee's. the pump/wear ring are also things that need to be added to the list, how clean is it down there ?

i liked the b4 and after pic's btw, amazing what a pressure washer and some elbow grease can do, sellers constantly cost themselves 100's by not even cleaning up the ski b4 listing.

i'd find this a good buy at $600 on a trailer, a very good buy if you only need a top end & carb rebuild, and a great buy if its a runner :)
 
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Before I spent a dime, pull the spark plugs, spray some engine fogging oil down the holes, or use oil. Then slowly rotate the pto back and forth a little at a time slowly working up to a full rotation. Those jugs are dry and need some oil before you even attempt to turn it over with a battery. Then connect a car battery with jumper cables to see if the electronics work. If so then start to spend some money. Don't put the cart before the horse.
 
Before I spent a dime, pull the spark plugs, spray some engine fogging oil down the holes, or use oil. Then slowly rotate the pto back and forth a little at a time slowly working up to a full rotation. Those jugs are dry and need some oil before you even attempt to turn it over with a battery. Then connect a car battery with jumper cables to see if the electronics work. If so then start to spend some money. Don't put the cart before the horse.

Yeah X2 what he said. You have no idea where you are. If it turns over after soaking it, then you should do a compression test and post your results and let us know if it has the dreded gray fuel lines.
 
Before I spent a dime, pull the spark plugs, spray some engine fogging oil down the holes, or use oil. Then slowly rotate the pto back and forth a little at a time slowly working up to a full rotation. Those jugs are dry and need some oil before you even attempt to turn it over with a battery. Then connect a car battery with jumper cables to see if the electronics work. If so then start to spend some money. Don't put the cart before the horse.
I wouldn't suggest applying power without inspecting both electrical boxes first. If there's moisture or corrosion in there, you want to clean it before you apply any power.
 
I wouldn't suggest applying power without inspecting both electrical boxes first. If there's moisture or corrosion in there, you want to clean it before you apply any power.

Forgive my ignorance, I have not dug around much inside the ski, but where is the other electrical box? I remember the one on the forward port side...
 
I believe your ski has two electrical boxes. (I might be wrong. Not all models do.)

One would be the MPEM and regulator. It would be in the very front of the ski on the port side. The other would be the starter relay, ignition coil, and main fuse. It would be next to the battery.

Perhaps someone who knows your model exactly can confirm this. If you can find both the MPEM and the starter relay, then you've found them all.
 
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