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1998 xp won't crank or nothing
- Thread starter 89standup
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That's fine but is it the correct one.... it might be too small a battery.
Well what kind of batteries would you run? To tell you the truth i couldn't tell you if this is the correct one or not.
It doesn't say anywhere on it about amperage or anything. Or how many volts it is.
=(
Could i possibly use a car battery just to see if the battery is my problem?
It doesn't say anywhere on it about amperage or anything. Or how many volts it is.
=(
Could i possibly use a car battery just to see if the battery is my problem?
Here is what you need...Don't just use any old battery.
I recommend a AGM (Advanced Glass Matt) Battery. It is better than a Gel Cell and it won't crack and cause problems when it get hot, like the Gel Cell. The AGM is the newest thing on the market that replaces the Gel Cell, and is an exact replacement for your XP. The model # is YTX20H-BI, made by Interstate batteries. This battery has a 310amp Cold Cranking power, that is the highest available. It won't let you down, when you need starting power. This battery retails for $87.95.
Karl
I recommend a AGM (Advanced Glass Matt) Battery. It is better than a Gel Cell and it won't crack and cause problems when it get hot, like the Gel Cell. The AGM is the newest thing on the market that replaces the Gel Cell, and is an exact replacement for your XP. The model # is YTX20H-BI, made by Interstate batteries. This battery has a 310amp Cold Cranking power, that is the highest available. It won't let you down, when you need starting power. This battery retails for $87.95.
Karl
Keep us posted...
troubleshooting...
I'm not to sure I'd invest a lot of money in this ski, till you find out if it's gonna be worth it.
I've been trying to access the wiring diagraphm, but I'm at work and our T-1 connection is really slow, must be heavy traffic.
I'd like to know about the wires you have dangling from your mpem. This seems that the other owner may have had some type of accessory that he was using. Take a voltage meter, touch the postive end to the red wire, then the ground of your probe to the engine block. Do you get a DC reading? You may need to have your lanyard plugged in for this. And if so, you'll only have 33 seconds to test before the relay shuts it off.
I wanted the wiring diagraphm to check the fuse you had missing. I wanted to know where it went to.
I think, because you don't know a lot about this ski, you should do a quick check of the crankshaft to make sure you have no real engine and bearing issues. Pull both the plugs out and lay them aside. At the back of the motor, there is a greyish shaft cover guard with 2 plastic wing nuts holding it on, remove that. Then, with the shaft exposed, see if the engine spins freely counterclockwise. Spin it at least 2 complete revolutions. If it turns over freely, without much resistance, then you can continue to work on the ski.
The battery. If you have bought a new battery and it went dead, you may have a short, draining your power. For the moment, un-plug the power supply to the VTS motor. The battery you bought, should have at least 200 CCA (cold cranking amps) or more. Anything less will probably not allow you to spin the motor past compression.
With that battery connected, you can hook it up to jumper cables of another 12 VDC vehicle, like your car, to try and start it. But you CANNOT have the motor running. You must never jump a ski/boat with another engine that is running.
Try and turn the engine over with the plugs removed. Put your plug wires on the grounding lugs. If the engine turns over well, with the plugs out, take one of your plugs and connect it to the plug wire. Then, lay that plug down on top of the engine. Then, turn the engine over again to see if you have spark at the plug. The lanyard has to be connected and you need two beeps to do this procedure. I'd do this in order before trying to start with your jumper.
Look to trouble shoot with the least amount of money until you know you have a viable base to work from. You may be wasting your money if you end up putting $1200 bucks in it, before you can get it to run. Let's make sure you got something to work with first.
I'm not to sure I'd invest a lot of money in this ski, till you find out if it's gonna be worth it.
I've been trying to access the wiring diagraphm, but I'm at work and our T-1 connection is really slow, must be heavy traffic.
I'd like to know about the wires you have dangling from your mpem. This seems that the other owner may have had some type of accessory that he was using. Take a voltage meter, touch the postive end to the red wire, then the ground of your probe to the engine block. Do you get a DC reading? You may need to have your lanyard plugged in for this. And if so, you'll only have 33 seconds to test before the relay shuts it off.
I wanted the wiring diagraphm to check the fuse you had missing. I wanted to know where it went to.
I think, because you don't know a lot about this ski, you should do a quick check of the crankshaft to make sure you have no real engine and bearing issues. Pull both the plugs out and lay them aside. At the back of the motor, there is a greyish shaft cover guard with 2 plastic wing nuts holding it on, remove that. Then, with the shaft exposed, see if the engine spins freely counterclockwise. Spin it at least 2 complete revolutions. If it turns over freely, without much resistance, then you can continue to work on the ski.
The battery. If you have bought a new battery and it went dead, you may have a short, draining your power. For the moment, un-plug the power supply to the VTS motor. The battery you bought, should have at least 200 CCA (cold cranking amps) or more. Anything less will probably not allow you to spin the motor past compression.
With that battery connected, you can hook it up to jumper cables of another 12 VDC vehicle, like your car, to try and start it. But you CANNOT have the motor running. You must never jump a ski/boat with another engine that is running.
Try and turn the engine over with the plugs removed. Put your plug wires on the grounding lugs. If the engine turns over well, with the plugs out, take one of your plugs and connect it to the plug wire. Then, lay that plug down on top of the engine. Then, turn the engine over again to see if you have spark at the plug. The lanyard has to be connected and you need two beeps to do this procedure. I'd do this in order before trying to start with your jumper.
Look to trouble shoot with the least amount of money until you know you have a viable base to work from. You may be wasting your money if you end up putting $1200 bucks in it, before you can get it to run. Let's make sure you got something to work with first.
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okay so when i went to the shop today the guy told me to buy a solenoid relay install kit.
I bought the kit and went home and hooked up the wires like i showed.
On the wiring harness Adapter it shows the YELLOW\RED wire coming out of the connector as well as a BLACK\WHITE T'd off to another BLACK\WHITE adapter.
I am really confused as to where to connect these to.
Because before i put this on all i had was the wiring harness coming out of the relay into two wires YELLOW\RED AND BLACK.
here are some pictures
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0128.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0129.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0130.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0131.jpg
This is how i hooked it up but i will type out the directions right here.
-Cut ring terminal of BLACK\WHITE wire from the MPEM
-Cut ring terminal of BLACK\WHITE wire from the start switch
-install sheaths
-Cut ring terminal of YELLOW\RED wire from the MPEM
-Install sheaths
-Connect BLACK\WHITE wires and YELLOW\RED wire to wiring harness adapter
-connect tab housing to solenoid
-Connect red positive cables to solenoid posts using m6 locks nuts
I think i may have done it wrong.
I also notice when i put the NEGATIVE side of cable on the terminal it sparks.
Hope anybody can help me find the wires coming from the MPEM because i don't see anything.
I bought the kit and went home and hooked up the wires like i showed.
On the wiring harness Adapter it shows the YELLOW\RED wire coming out of the connector as well as a BLACK\WHITE T'd off to another BLACK\WHITE adapter.
I am really confused as to where to connect these to.
Because before i put this on all i had was the wiring harness coming out of the relay into two wires YELLOW\RED AND BLACK.
here are some pictures
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0128.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0129.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0130.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/Low98Dime/DSC_0131.jpg
This is how i hooked it up but i will type out the directions right here.
-Cut ring terminal of BLACK\WHITE wire from the MPEM
-Cut ring terminal of BLACK\WHITE wire from the start switch
-install sheaths
-Cut ring terminal of YELLOW\RED wire from the MPEM
-Install sheaths
-Connect BLACK\WHITE wires and YELLOW\RED wire to wiring harness adapter
-connect tab housing to solenoid
-Connect red positive cables to solenoid posts using m6 locks nuts
I think i may have done it wrong.
I also notice when i put the NEGATIVE side of cable on the terminal it sparks.
Hope anybody can help me find the wires coming from the MPEM because i don't see anything.
HALELUJAHHHHHH!!!
I fixed it, but i still don't know how I did.
I took one hard look at the wiring I did, unhooked it all and hooked it all back in.
It finally runs thats all i care =)
Now hopefully it stays running now!!
Thank you guys for everything!! I will keep you posted on how it runs and whatnot!
I fixed it, but i still don't know how I did.
I took one hard look at the wiring I did, unhooked it all and hooked it all back in.
It finally runs thats all i care =)
Now hopefully it stays running now!!
Thank you guys for everything!! I will keep you posted on how it runs and whatnot!
Wiring....
I don't think it's your wiring. If you got a start from the solenoid and "popped" no fuses, then you did it correctly. I still have no access to the wiring diagraphms, but from that configuration, don't think it will show the "solenoid kit" as the way you purchased. But like I said, if it started, your on the money.
Did you disconnect the VTS module from the power circuit? You have a heavy power loss from an electrical component and it's pointing to that VTS.
I don't think it's your wiring. If you got a start from the solenoid and "popped" no fuses, then you did it correctly. I still have no access to the wiring diagraphms, but from that configuration, don't think it will show the "solenoid kit" as the way you purchased. But like I said, if it started, your on the money.
Did you disconnect the VTS module from the power circuit? You have a heavy power loss from an electrical component and it's pointing to that VTS.
where do i unplug the VTS? Is it those three black insulated wires running to the rear of the VTS? Or is it a fuse?
Also how else can i check to see where a wire or something is being drawn drastically from my battery.
We got it to start and run but we have to unplug the battery as soon as we turn it off or the battery will be dead within a couple minutes.
Also how else can i check to see where a wire or something is being drawn drastically from my battery.
We got it to start and run but we have to unplug the battery as soon as we turn it off or the battery will be dead within a couple minutes.
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