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1998 Speedster Melts Stuff

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erunner

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I've got a 1998 speedster that played a mean trick on me years ago. I had the left engine replaced by a dealer 2005, shortly after I got it back I came out one morning to find the back end submerged in my lake. Upon further examination I saw that the black plastic resonator things were melted. After arguing with the dealer for a while, I realized they weren't going to do anything to help me so I parked it and that's were it's been since.

Question is, what could have happened to cause it to melt those things? And what do I now that it's been sitting for so long?

Thanks in advance for any advice/tips.

E
 
What caused it to melt? something hot. But... seriosly... the water injection was probably plugged up, so the exhaust overheated. (probably why you lost a motor. It over heated)

What caused it to plug???? could be anything, but razor clams like to grow in the hoses when you leave a jet boat parked in the water.

Now... did that cause it to sink? Probably not. The driveshaft seals let the water in. By design, they leak to keep themselves cool. It's not advised to leave a SeaDoo (or any jet boat) parked in the water.

Now... the damage is going to be huge! I'm assuming both motors are full of water, and they've sat that way for 5 years. At minimum... if the bilge was allowed to dry out... you will need 2 motors. (Complete with carbs) If there was water in the bilge, then the moisture would have wreaked havoc on the electrical.
 
I did get all the water out of the bilge and blew all the water out of the cylinders. It wasn't completely submerged, just up to the mufflers.

What's the best way to flush this thing? Should I do a carb rebuild, in addition to draining the old fuel and oil?

Thanks for the quick reply.

E
 
Putting the drain plugs in may make it heavier/harder to drag/tow out it of the lake.
 
Before you go to far with it... I'd pull off the covers on the rear of the engines (Gray plastic over the PTO) and see if you can turn the engine over by hand.

If water got into them, and they sat... they are going to be locked solid.

If you can turn them... then continue with a fresh battery, and try to start them.
 
Wow, been a bit remiss getting on here... Work always gets in the way of play.

Did get the boat going. Still needs some work, but all is heading in the right direction. Thankfully, the motors weren't seized up, rebuilt/rewired the electrics box, replaced all the coolant hoses, completely flushed the system, drained all the fuel and oil, new inline filters, new plugs and rebuilt the rave valves.

Left engine runs like a champ, the right seems to run well but doesn't idle for sh*t and it may not be running at full rpm. It's a bit hard to tell on my small lake headed to a bigger one this weekend. I'm also not so sure the tachs are accurate, they don't start indicating until about 3k. At WOT the left is indicating 7000+/- and the right 6500, they sound in sync though.

Gonna check compression later today if I get the time and it's looking like I'll be rebuilding some carburetors soon. What's the best kit to get? I might as well do all four since I'll be in the mood.

Thanks for the help guys.
E
 
Get a pop-off tester, need needles & seats, genuine OEM Mikuni carb kits. Leak-down test each after re-build.
 
Roger, I'll be on that.

I'll let you guys know how the big lake run goes. What should I see for a top speed? I've never had it on a big lake, it replaced a 96' Speedster that we used for goofing off in our smaller lake. Turns out this one would be way more fun with some room to work with.
 
You saved the boat by drying it out and putting mystery oil in the cylinders and plugging it up.

Otherwise, I am betting you would have had two seized engines and a mess with the electrical, as said above. :cheers:
 
Did have an electrical mess to deal with but I knew that, the last shop that worked on it didn't reinstall the rubber gaskets for the box. When I opened it up it was toast. I just made a new harnesses, replaced the coils and new starter solenoids.

Oiling cylinders in my stored junk is a small obsessive habit after having a motor seize up.
 
think the motor twist'n at 6500, is better performing then the one at 7k...got wear ring issue on that one.
 
I can't be too sure of the rpm yet, I've only be able to have it at WOT for aprox 2 seconds before I'm in the turn on my small lake. Still waiting for a good day to hit a big lake. I will for sure keep the ring wear issue in mind.
 
Forgot to mention, after a bit of checking it looks like it might have Solas impellers. The previous owners had the stickers all over and the impellers look stainless. Any other ways to be certain?

Thanks,
E
 
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