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1998 GTI will not turn over with sprak plugs installed

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Vicious

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I have completed a new top end rebuild and even had the motor running for about 5 to 10 seconds :hurray: and after that I when I would push the starter I would see the PTO move about half and inch and CLICK.:(

With the plugs out it turns over all day. :) When I add one plug to either side it still turns over but once I add the second plug it get the CLICK.:confused:

When I put the DESS on I do not get the two beeps so I think I have narrowed this problem down to the battery voltage being 11.98 volts. I found out that my battery charger was not charging so I have purchased a new one today and this one checks out so I will charge overnight.

Could the low battery also be the case of my problem? The new pistons are pushing 158 psi for each side. This will probably get better as the rings seat.
 
Vicious...clean the post and swab out lanyard, also use your car/truck, with it not running, and hook cables from that to ski...
 
The last time I jumped my Yamaha XL760 from a car battery I fried the starter relay/solenoid and the voltage regulator... for now I will charge the battery over night.
 
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you have three possible culprits.... first I would check the batt it may be bad. You can show 12 volts and still not have enough amps to turn a new top end...

Second I would check the starter. they get coroded and weaker over time..

third your compression sounds high... with new pistons and rings you should be at 150 psi higher than that with a stock head indicates your gauge is bad or you have a problem....
 
Battery Charged and Engine Turned over with plugs in

This morning before going of to work I checked the battery and would you know it, it is at 12.8 volts after charging with the NEW charger. Just for a quick check I placed the DESS on and got the two ready beeps.

The best thing of all, :hurray: yes it happened :hurray: the engine did turn over with the spark plugs in :hurray: so this afternoon when I get home it should be Showtime! :cheers:

I will let you know this afternoon.
 
Chug, Chug...sputter

I get everything setup, the water hose attached AND ready the WD-40 in the cylinders the plugs checked for proper gap PUT ON THE dess and heard the two BEEPS and it chugged, chugged, sputtered and even ran for 5 to 10 seconds then I smelled gas. I investigated to see were it was coming from and found that my accelerator pump on the carb was leaking. Every time I would manually turn WOT gas would poor out from the rod.

So today being Monday and no shops open, I will be to the local shop tomorrow at lunch to get and accelerator rebuild kit.... Stay tuned...
 
In SHOCK..

Ok I went to my local Jet Ski shop that handles all makes and almost feel on the floor when I asked for an accelerator pump rebuild kit. I SW told that it would have to be ordered and it is $239.00 retail and you have to get the whole assembly (part number 270 500 391, Diaphragm Cover) not just the diaphragm that I need. They were nice enough to offer a 10 percent discount to $215. I inquired about a new 40I carb and they said the could get me one for $400.

Anyone have any idea where to get the diaphragm or is there a way to fix the small hole in the diaphragm? I am trying to recall a glue or something that will no dissolve with gas and will stay flexible as well.

Any ideas on were I can get the diaphragm or am I stuck buying the whole plate with the diaphragm?
 
Thanks for the effort. :cheers: but that is a 433 and I call for a 391. The part looks bigger than what I have.
 
You may be right but I would not know for sure unless I had them side by side or if someone else knew for sure. Or I could see a diference in the shape. As photos are deceiving. It is probbly a waste of time but I thought I would through it out there to see what kind of feed back we would recieve. Again I am only talking about the thin diaphram only. :cheers:
 
It sounds like a winner. I would contact the vendor and ask anyway to be sure. Let us know how you make out.

Karl
 
Thanks Karl!

I went ahead and order it for the $13.05 cause I figured what the heck... I also got a killer deal on Hydro Turf mats from the site as well. They where the cheapest I have seen them.

I will post when it comes in.

Thanks again.....
 
I sure hope it works so that many others can take advantage of this allso. I have searched for these diaphragms and I could not find them any where other than where you seen them so I thought it must have been a mistake. please let us know so we can let others know. :cheers:
 
Diaphragm worked!!!

I finally received the diaphragm yesterday and installed it today. It worked like a charm and I have no more fuel leaking form the accelerator pump. This is a god send at $13.05 verses the $248.00 my local shop wanted for the whole accelerator assembly. :hurray:

Now for the bad news... The engine started up with a problem...took maybe 10 seconds or so. However I noticed that there seems to be an excessive amount of vibration from the front cylinder. Before I put the top end on I did kind of notice that the front piston rod would just flop side to side while the PTO rod would pretty much stay where ever it was put. Could this be a bad thing and causing my problem?

I will take the heads off tomorrow after work and make sure the problem is not with the heads them selfs. I could have done something stupid like torqued them down to 9 ft lbs and forgot to go back for the second torque speck. (If only it will be this simple.)

OK, lets say that the rods are the problem. Is this something I can do myself or will I need to take it to a machine shop... On a car I would just un-bolt the rod and add a new one.

Vic
 
flop side-side. slid sideways, or rocked back and forth? how much straight up and down play? any? sounds to me like you put a new top end on a bad crank. you can't fix a crank yourself. unless you are set up to do pwc cranks for a living. they are pressed apart and back together. the rods are one-piece.
 
The rods do not move up and down on the shaft, so no play there. The MAG rod does flop around side to side but not really front to back. The PTO rod pretty much just stays where I put it. If I lean it to the side it will stay for a while before it falls. The MAG rod falls to either side no matter where I put the rod.

Could the looseness of the MAG rod cause the vibration? Can I pull the crank out and have my local machine shop press it back together, making it tighter?
 
PTO piston Hitting the inside of the bottom end

I just did a compression check before I took the top end off again. I got 145 on the MAG side and only 80 on the PTO side. After taking the top end off I find metal that has been smashed flat. After I took the cylinder sleeve off I find more.

The culprit seems to be the piston knocking the bottom of the block. Why would this happen. This is also the cylinder with he rod that does not move freely. I am assuming that I have a bent crank....

So if this is the case I think I souls cut my losses and just buy a rebuilt engine. But I might be able to save the top end I just replaced and this cylinder by honing it out, but the cost of a crank will put me at the cost of a new engine ....

Any thpughts... should I just start anew or replace the crank shaft an try to hone out the cylinder?
 
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