Well, the new diaphragms did nothing. Still bogs right around where the high speed circuit starts. Occasionally one of them will let you get passed the bog and to 7k RPM or so but only lasts a few seconds until bogging again. This is incredibly frustrating, especially after having this much money into it. I'm going to be winterizing it soon if I can't think of anything else to try.
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1998 Challenger 1800 starving for fuel on high speed circuit
- Thread starter tingraham
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If you bypassed the neutral safety switch in the levers and you can't pass 3000 range rpms and y I ur said your mpem is acting funny. You should be able to start either engine in any order.
I would be looking in a new set of carbs for one engine to see if that helps since you replaced everything or that mpem might be messed up. Mpem controls alot more in rave 2 Strokes than non rave ones.
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I would be looking in a new set of carbs for one engine to see if that helps since you replaced everything or that mpem might be messed up. Mpem controls alot more in rave 2 Strokes than non rave ones.
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Just to wrap up this thread because it drives me insane when there is no answer to some threads, I successfully got the boat running fantastic. The answer was getting new/used carbs off ebay from a 97 XP and I swapped the jets, needles and seats out from the originals I was using. I also converted to the fuel pumps that are on the side of the carbs rather than using the external pumps as that's how the PWC carbs are setup anyway. Unfortunately I am not sure what was causing this issue internally on the carbs, perhaps corrosion in the passages that I cannot see or something similar. Thanks for the input from my fellow SeaDooers!
I just want to close out this thread with the solution that I found causing the original issue that I posted about. Yes, I put the new carbs on and that solved it but I ended up using one of the old sets of carbs on one of my 97 XP skis. As I was going back through them and comparing stuff between them and the ones I was pulling off the ski, I noticed a shocking difference that I am still frustrated about. I originally rebuilt these carbs with an ebay parts kit (I know, I know). Once I experienced the issues all that crap was replaced with genuine Mikuni parts.... Except one thing... The freakin clear plastic check valves. I attempted to blow through the ebay ones and noticed a bit of a challenge to blow through it, then blew through the much more flimsy one on the other set of carbs and felt no restriction at all. I knew right then it was these tiny little pieces of plastic that caused all the issues from the very beginning. What wasted time!
So with that being said, this is the reason why you should ALWAYS use genuine Mikuni parts when rebuilding the carbs because something as simple to make as a piece of flat plastic can apparently be messed up.
And enut - still have to start the left engine first, it doesn't like it the other way.
So with that being said, this is the reason why you should ALWAYS use genuine Mikuni parts when rebuilding the carbs because something as simple to make as a piece of flat plastic can apparently be messed up.
And enut - still have to start the left engine first, it doesn't like it the other way.
ORION '95 Speedster
Active Member
Blub blub blub. Ka chug a chug.
mike_tyler
New Member
Thanks for coming back and updating the thread Tim. There's some great info here for us boat owners and appreciate you seeing it thru as well as commentary from others. Gives me confidence to possibly tackle my own now
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