1998 1800 sporster (717)

[Huddy]

Just put a newly rebuilt engine 717 by Seadoo engine shop in my sportster. Engine starts and idles fine but when I put it in gear and go above 3500 rpms is almost dies and I have to idles it back to below 3000 rpms. The second motor runs fine and will hold RPM's.

I am not sure if I have fuel or electrical problem or maybe the rotary valve is not timed correctly.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Waterluvr]

You did completely rebuild the carb for your new motor with all new soft parts, needle and seat and kitted the fuel and accelerator pump? If not, just start there it would be a shame to lean out a new motor and kill it breaking it in.

The manual will show you how to check timing, but my first concern would be fuel and a lean condition.

 

[Huddy]

I have the carb kit but have not gotten to it yet. That's a very good point I will do that ASAP.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Huddy]

Can someone please share with me the Low and High speed screw settings?

 

[Waterluvr]

Can someone please share with me the Low and High speed screw settings?

Page 06-04-16 of the shop manual lists everything you need to know.

 

[Huddy]

Thanks

One last question I hope

I found that I have a broken yellow wire coming from the Mag. I assume that maybe that wire is for the charging system but is it possible that its related to my RPM issues?.

I would think if its related to the coil that the engine would not start.

 

[Waterluvr]

It sure is related, when you find the wiring color and function codes in the manual in order to reference what every wire on the plug in does I will be happy to help you get that figured out. But by then, you'll already know.

But ask anyway's if you can't figure it out from there, read the entire ignition section it has complete troubleshooting and testing procedures for that.

The trouble with answering your question is that basically an entire copy and paste from the manual is required for it to be complete for wire ID and troubleshooting.

Working on these engines without the manual is not an option at all, even for an experienced tech.

 

[Huddy]

Thank for the info do you by chance have the supplement wiring diagram you could share with me?

 

[howie099]

ok, I have the same boat. I would rebuild both carbs and opt to get the new accelerator pump also if you stumble when you punch it. Get the mikuni needles and seats also. no aftermarket on them they suck. The yellow wire is off the magneto assembly you need that wire also. You can get the manual from this site for your boat. I am pretty sure SES timed the engine right unless you moved the rotary valve on install. Also that boat does come with the grey tempo lines on the fuel pumps pulse lines. Your pumps could be gummed up also.

 

[Huddy]

Thanks everyone for the info you got me going in the right direction I love this forum.

Rebuilt both carbs and cleaned and serviced the fuel pump it was pretty gummed up on the side I replaced the motor. I also replace all spark plugs and gaped them to spec.

At this point is seams to start and idle fine hooked up to the garden hose. Going to take it out tomorrow night and give it a test run.

Thanks again for all the good info.

 

[Huddy]

Test drive went fairly well with exception to a couple more issues.

1. Boat doesn't want to come up on plain to quickly. It cavitates for awhile before it finial catches and away we go. I inspected the wear rings and impellers this weekend and it appears that the wear rings are out of spec
.045 is what I am measuring. I have 2 wear rings and 2 sets of carbon seals on order hopefully that will fix that problem.

Question I do have is what should I expect when I jump on the throttle

2. Prior to kiting both carbs the port side engine always seam to start harder then the aft engine. The first time its starts fairly well but after running it for a bit then shutting it off its almost like its fouls out the plugs. If I swap out the plugs it starts right up and away we go. This certainly makes me think its a fuel issue with the carb but could this also be a coil issue?

Thanks