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1997 Speedster Winter Maintenance/wear ring replacement

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On the china ring I have I had a similar problem, I put the impeller tool in there and gave it the stink with the wrench and used the impeller to shave the ring to size. Is yours digging the full 360 or only part? Mine was only digging where it is a cheap out of round ring
 
I used the delrin wear ring from OSD Parts that someone recommended. I can only get it in a little bit and it seems to be biting into the delrin in a few different areas. I'm thinking I'll use the removal tool to get it to bite in a bit, sand it down in those areas, use the removal tool again, sand it down again, etc. Just wasn't sure if sanding the delrin material was a good idea or not.
 
Its probably your only option at this point because you would have to cut the ring to get it out any way. I dont know how the delrin will respond to being shaved out by the prop, only one way to find out
 
So I sanded down the delrin wear ring. The impeller was tight but I was able to turn it with some pressure. I figured I would install it, try to turn the engine and see if the impeller would rub against the delrin and wear it down a little bit to create clearance. Well, I'm not that lucky. I have to remove the pump again and start over and sand it down a bit more as the impeller is binding against the delrin. In the mean time, I replaced by carbon seals. There's a boot between the carbon seal and the flywheel that I also replaced. This is the one I've seen in videos where it says to use a zip tie to hold it in place. There's a zerk fitting that gets filled with grease but I cannot find any information on how much grease I should be adding. As I connected the grease pump and injected a little, I could see the pressure being placed on the cabon seal. I'm also assuming that if I add too much, it's going to make that boot pop off. Is there any information on how much grease I should be injecting into that zerk fitting?
 
Well, I put the grease in before I seen your message and I think I may have put too much. I sanded down the delrin wear ring so the impeller spins freely. When I mounted the pump back on the hull, I losely tightened the 4 nuts and I turned the engine over real quick. Everything sounded fine. I torqued the 4 nuts down to 24 pounds per the shop manual. I then put in the grease to the zerk fitting on the flywheel. Each pump, I could see the drive shaft move a bit forward and the boot would expand a little bit. I think I put in about 4 pumps with a standard automotive grease gun. Now when I tried to turn the engine over, it doesn't sound the same. When I turn the left engine over, which I have not touched yet, it sounds like it's going to start. When I turn the right engine over, it rumbles for just 1 second and then stops. Since I've torqued everything to spec, I'm wondering if I put too much grease in that zerk fitting. Could it be causing too much pressure on the drive shaft? After I tried to turn it over, I looked back by the boot that's between the PTO and the carbon seal and there's a little bit of grease being forced out under the zip tie. I'm not sure what else it could be. Should I cut the zip tie, let some of the grease out and see if that maybe relieves some of the pressure on the drive shaft?
 
Too much grease won't stop it from turning over. They just don't want you to burst the boot or blow out a retaining clip.
 
Is there anything else that can cause it? When I loosely attach the pump back to the hull, it turns over fine. When I torque it down to 24 pounds, it only turns over once.
 
With the pump off, the drive shaft does not push in and out. There's a tiny bit of play up/down/side to side but not in and out.
 
No, I meant in the pump. Pull the pump, then pull and push linerally on the impeller. The impeller should move in and out.
 
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