1997 speedster engine max's at 3500 rpm's

[JLO1997]

I am a new boat owner and new to the forum. I have tried my best to find the answers but am having some trouble.

From the beginning: I bought a 1997 speedster for next to nothing, I knew motors were seized up before I bought it. The boat had been sitting for a while so I drained the gas put in new gas as well as fuel additive to remove any water that could have been in tank. Drained old oil and replace with new as well. I had both engines replaced, actually rebuilt. Both engines are at 160, 160, 165, 165. The old carbs on each engine were put back on started engines with hoses. They both started up and idled fine after a few adjustments to LS. Dropped it in the water made a few more adjustments to LS with a load on it. Things are good, right? Wrong. Gave it some throttle as it dies out. This went on for a while until I got frustrated and went home. Went back again to work on it adjusted LS and HS and now it runs to 3500 rpm's and does not go any higher. It knocks, sputters....I can't think of the best adjective for this. It either needs more air or more gas, I think. I am not a mechanic by any means, and am trying my best to explain the issue. Bottom line at this point is full throttle stays at 3500 and knocks. I have to accelerate slowly to get it to 3500.

I've heard of accelerator pump, fuel lines, running lean, running rich, carbs need rebuild/cleaned. One thing I have learned on here is to take my time and protect the engines or I will be putting new ones in again.

Jason

 

[CaptSteve]

You might want to check the neutral lockout switch. If the switch is bad, it will not rev above 3500 rpm.

Since you had new engines installed, I would have rebuilt the carbs at the same time. Since the carbs have not been rebuilt, you should check the filter inside the carb. If you have the old style grey fuel lines, the filter inside the carb can get clogged. If you still have the grey fuel lines, you should replace them with black fuel hose. You should also rebuild the carbs, change the fuel filter, and clean the fuel selector switch.

 

[Dr Honda]

yep... 3500 is the magic number. It think's it's still in neutral.

 

[JLO1997]

CaptSteve/Dr Honda - thanks for the quick posts. I will work on having the carbs rebuilt. I knew I should have done when I had the engines out...my mistake. Ok, so the neutral lockout switch. Where would I find this pesky thing, apologize for lack of knowledge of that, I will work on today. A side note, the reverse cable is broken and the stick is in neutral. Should I put it in forward anyway. I assumed since it was broken that it would not make a difference. I assume now that I am wrong.

The carbs, what type of kit do I need for the rebuild of the 97 speedster, 717/720? I am not sure of size of carbs. 37,38,43mm?

You guys are great. I hope I can give input of my experiences on this forum soon and maybe help someone else out.

Jason

 

[Gamerse]

Switch is on the bottom of the controls, (i think, can't find it in the manual) since you have no reverse anyway, just leave it in fwd. If the problem persists, find the red wire with a white stripe going into the mpem. You may have to stick it with a probe, test for ground with an ohm meter. It should be either on or off. If it does neither, you can ground that wire to see if it changes your condition. If you check the switch and it is good, you can check continuity from the red/white wire to there, or pin aa on the big connector. The other side of the switch goes to ground. Welcome to the community!

My manual doesn't have a parts section, so I can't help out with the carbs.

:cheers:
Ernest

 

[JLO1997]

simple enough...since there is no reverse cable I never put it in forward. Works fine now. Thanks for all your help