RESTO 1997 SeaDoo HX

[KingdomSeeker]

Hi.

New to the forums. Picked up a very clean '97 HX that has been in dry covered storage since 2008, for FREEEEE. I don't know the history of use, so I am starting from scratch on getting this thing in the water. I am familiar with Rotax engines (Aprilia's), so I know their ability/reputation. I took the HX home last night, thoroughly cleaned it inside, it had a lot of blackish mold/oil inside the engine compartment (doubt anything is blown or leaking, just looks like normal coating).

1. Checked the spark pugs, very fouled. I think they removed the oil injector, but need to check. Suggestions?
2. Checked the spark plugs, very fouled, will replace.
3. Sat since 2008 in storage, so fuel was left in and I will be cleaning the carbs, fuel lines, and fuel filter. Will drain the tank obviously and try to run some high octane with BG Products cleaner.

Any suggestions on what else to check other than the basics, just to get it started? I has hoping it was going to be large enough to turn into a fishing rig, but appears it's more of a fun one seater, so once it's running I may list for possible trades or sale.

In the pics below, I was wondering what would go into the Styrofoam slots, which is in the front right area of the hull. I am also interested in putting gauges in, Ebay had one that had fuel, batt, oil, temp alarm but not sure if it is actually the right one. There's no rust on any of the clamps, connectors, pipes, shafts...; which is strange since it came from Louisiana and is now in Texas. Currently, the HX has blank inserts in the cluster. Also, someone put a Kawasaki throttle cable assembly on it and I don't have the cushion for the triple clamps area. Don't want to bust my face open.... Any input is welcomed and Thanks in advance!

 

[KingdomSeeker]

The pictures above were taken pre wash, will post after cleaning, but what a difference Purple Power Cleaner/Degreaser makes! I was able to buff out a small area and what a difference, esp in the yellow. Looks almost brand new inside the engine compartment now. I downloaded the Shop manual, it doesn't seem to be very intuitive for in depth maintenance. Is there anything to clean/check in the drive shaft impeller area? I believe this engine is not a closed loop cooling system like the bigger models from that year? I don't think these units have reverse...... I don't see the bracket that should move down over the rear end output area (not sure the correct name for it).

Trailer came with it too, need to replace the bunks (crumbling and broken). Hull has no damage other than normal scrapes.

 

[mikidymac]

Well, congratulations on your free HX but that is a 1996 just like mine not a 1997.

First thing first......
1. Get a gallon of Castrol Super Clean in the big purple bottle from walmart and clean the entire inside of the ski with it.
2. I can see a blue lanyard in the rear compartment so save that as it is your kill switch.
3. All the grey fuel lines have to be replaced with standard 1/4" automotive fuel hose. They break down and will clog the carbs.
4. Replace the fuel strainer and ON/OFF valve with new OEM ones.
5. Rebuild both carbs with ONLY GENUINE Mikuni kits and needle and seats. DO NOT buy aftermarket!!!.
6. DO NOT add any carb cleaner, seafoam, BG cleaner or anything else to the fuel. It will not fix fuel system issues or clean anything that should be taken apart and done correctly.
7. That space in the foam on the right is for the oil tank. It not only supplies oil to the injection but also the rotary valve cavity. The two 12mm clear hoses in your picture that have a tiny bit of oil in them supply this rotary cavity and yours is dangerously low. I would get a replacement tank and reconnect the two oil hoses and if it were mine reinstall the oil injection. The seadoo injection is extremely reliable.
8. Change the jet pump oil and inspect the wear ring and impeller.

Any missing parts like the handlebar pad and oil tank can be obtained by Nick here [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION]. He is super honest and only sells quality parts. I couldn't have done my HX without him.
Another good source for carb kits is OSD seadoo.

 

[mikidymac]

The pictures above were taken pre wash, will post after cleaning, but what a difference Purple Power Cleaner/Degreaser makes! I was able to buff out a small area and what a difference, esp in the yellow. Looks almost brand new inside the engine compartment now. I downloaded the Shop manual, it doesn't seem to be very intuitive for in depth maintenance. Is there anything to clean/check in the drive shaft impeller area? I believe this engine is not a closed loop cooling system like the bigger models from that year? I don't think these units have reverse...... I don't see the bracket that should move down over the rear end output area (not sure the correct name for it).

Trailer came with it too, need to replace the bunks (crumbling and broken). Hull has no damage other than normal scrapes.

None of the two stroke seadoo's are closed loop cooling, just raw water from the pump.
No reverse. This is a sport craft, one person only, very unstable and very maneuverable. They never sold well because they are so hard to board and ride. They are almost like a stand up in that it takes skil and balance and not just anybody can jump on them and ride like a three seater.

 

[KingdomSeeker]

Excellent, thanks for the feedback, was told it was a '97. Still waiting on the Title from the person I got it from. Will get the parts ordered that you suggest. I saw another post on here where someone was asking about the oil tank. I always have used block off kits on my 2 strokers, most aren't very reliable and tend to cause seizures. If the ones on these engines are reliable, then I will get that squared away too. Hopefully they didn't actually remove the injection parts. Will check tonight once I start taking things apart.

On your number 8 comment, is that something described in the Maint Manual? I brushed through it late last night but didn't see specific steps..... I did see the steps on greasing the impeller bearing though.

 

[mikidymac]

These don't use impeller grease they use oil. Make sure you have the 1996 service manual.
You will grease the driveshaft carrier bearing though. Not too much or you will blow out the seals.

 

[KingdomSeeker]

So if I am understanding correctly, after I have the 1996 service manual, the oil injection not only supplies the premix to the engine but also helps lube the driveline (rotary gear)?

I am looking at the manual and it also states there are plastic versus aluminum impellers? Not sure how to find out which one I have without tearing it apart. Should I take the intake grate off and inspect?

Sorry for the newbie questions, these manuals don't seem to be very detailed like many other manuals I have used about specifics (not sure if that makes sense).... Being new to Jet Ski's, don't want to overlook anything. I have boats (rebuild I/O and bellows kits), rebuilt 2 stroke outboards, Diesel engines, gas engines, dirt bikes/motorcycles, but the operation on the jet ski is new to me.

 

[mikidymac]

I think you have the wrong manual as there is no such thing as a plastic impeller.

The rotary gear is inside the engine and spins the rotary valve opening and closing the intake port instead or reeds like other two strokes. The shaft is geared to the crankshaft and is lubed by two stroke oil supplied by the oil tank through two 12mm clear hoses.

 

[KingdomSeeker]

Just checked the manual, it states "1996 Seadoo Shop Manual". Number 219 100 031. Most the parts look correct, from the pics and what I have seen inside the HX. It also shows the models numbers covered, page 3, which HX is listed.

Rotary Valve - starts on page 80, section 4.

Jet Propulsion system - starts on page 200. section 9. Page 201 shows breakdown of plastic pump, but doesn't say which model it's for.

It appears that there needs to be about 3 Fl. Oz of oil in the nozzle assembly (page 204). Thus meaning there are 2 points of "oil" lubrication for the propulsion system (rotary valve and the rear nozzle)?

I will be ordering a tank asap. I read on a thread where people are just "looping" the oil hoses, but I don't want to take that route. I just need to figure out how much money to invest if I plan on selling at some point so I can get a larger, easier type unit, to use for fishing...... I am pretty anal about maintenance and want to make sure I check everything I can since this thing has been sitting for so long, don't want to damage something on the first fire up.

 

[KingdomSeeker]

Also, when it comes to the electronics, would the XP gauges work on the HX? I figure there has to be a reason for the 2 gauge holes in the cluster..... Most companies will use the same ECU, so if the plug is already there I imagine it is there. I looked at the Elec diagram, looks like there is a harness, but only shows oil and temp circuits.

 

[mikidymac]

You have the correct manual but you are getting the rotary valve confused with the drivetrain. The rotary shaft is in the engine and has nothing to do with the driveshaft and is lubed by 2 stroke oil from the oil tank.

The pump/impeller housing uses gear oil to lube the pump bearings. Two totally unrelated systems.

The 96' HX never came with gauges so you would have to add every sender just to get the gauges working as there are no sending units on the 96' HX. In my opinion it isn't worth the trouble. The only one that would be useful is a fuel gauge but then you would need the gauge and tank sending unit. You have a Reserve setting on the fuel selector if you ever run out to get you back to the ramp anyways.