RESTO 1997 Challenger 1800 no spark.. Ignition coil?

[Huntz52]

A couple things....

1. You are running the wrong oil and that has in the past caused the crank seal leaks and a very few members have had the crank seals stop leaking after flushing and switching to the correct API-TC oil.
2. That is an SBT engine which are not known for their quality parts and reliability.
3. IF it only fills with oil after sitting a few days you can install a ball valve on the crankcase oil lines and limp it along for a few more years but you have to remember to ALWAYS open and close the valve.

If I don’t have a choke like ran to the engine with my current issue, is there a way to choke it?

 

[noviceskier]

PN:779127
Ordered my oil from pro caliber, had an issue with part holding up order but still got my order. Price is $42 which is cheaper than other options.

I guess now would be a good time to inspect the integrity of your lines and replace the oil filters as well.

 

[mikidymac]

I would flush the rotary chamber with new oil and install a new oil filter.

I prefer the Seadoo XPS 2T E-TEC oil. You can also use Amsoil Interceptor.

If you pull the engine you have to have the alignment tool to reinstall it.

 

[Huntz52]

I would flush the rotary chamber with new oil and install a new oil filter.

I prefer the Seadoo XPS 2T E-TEC oil. You can also use Amsoil Interceptor.

If you pull the engine you have to have the alignment tool to reinstall it.

I was able to snag the right oil this weekend from a sea-doo dealer but I’ve ran into another snag.... I pumped all the old oil out of the oil reservoir. Poured the new correct oil in (1gal. For now). Went to attempt to get the other engine fired up with some starter fluid because my choke isn’t hooked up and doesn’t crank over. Pull the plugs and spray the excess oil out of the cylinders (it’s actually just one of the two) and do that for about three or four different rotations of 8 seconds so I don’t over heat the starter. I put the spark plugs back in and buttoned it up and tried to roll it over but no dice. The battery may be getting a little low considering the only time the boat has been on has only been for a minute... but this isn’t the snag... the snag is that I saw a ton of my newly poured oil at the bottom of the engine bay. I look up and it has a pretty good leak from the oil reservoir. I tried to see where the leak is coming from and looks like the back of the reservoir somewhere. So now my new plan is to clamp off the lines and then take the reservoir out and see if I can see any visible cracks/holes. Is there something on the back side that could be leaking other than a crack? I imagine the reservoir can hold more than a gallon..

 

[noviceskier]

so the old twc oil is still circulating in the rv, lines, and in filter?

 

[Huntz52]

so the old twc oil is still circulating in the rv, lines, and in filter?

Yea, kinda jumped that step out of excitement for new oil.. Although finding this new problem is going to have me check the lines (Replace filter) anyways for corrosion since I'm taking the reservoir off. I want to replace all the grommets on the reservoir when its off.. Is there a good site I can get these from? I'm also going to pump the old gas out. Is there anything I need to do before completely emptying the gas tank?

 

[noviceskier]

i bought everything from procaliber (and some carb bits from osd.) although it took a bit because one pair of grommets i ordered for my exhaust pipe took awhile to get in. Since they ship everything as one package.

 

[Huntz52]

Is there a good write up with pictures out there anywhere showing how to pull an engine and re-install? On

A couple things....

1. You are running the wrong oil and that has in the past caused the crank seal leaks and a very few members have had the crank seals stop leaking after flushing and switching to the correct API-TC oil.
2. That is an SBT engine which are not known for their quality parts and reliability.
3. IF it only fills with oil after sitting a few days you can install a ball valve on the crankcase oil lines and limp it along for a few more years but you have to remember to ALWAYS open and close the valve.

I'm trying to weight out my options here.. But I'm wondering what everyone else thinks. The oil is only excessively coming out of one cylinder and not both.. could this also be a ring issue? I'm pretty good at taking things apart and putting them back together how they belong but in all honesty, I've never taken an engine apart before and wouldn't know the first thing when trying to figure out where the problem is but I'm always down to learn. I just don't have that lifeline on the side to ask when in a bind. Being that its an SBT engine, does this make things different for me trying to replace the parts within that I need to fix the engine? Should I even attempt to fix the engine myself? If there was a "787 rotax for dummies" book out there, I would feel better about pulling it and dissecting it. Or go with other options like, pulling the engine myself and replacing it with another rebuild? I've been looking at rebuilds and most say they won't take a SBT core..

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The gauge was new from advanced auto parts so I’m hoping it was giving me some accurate numbers. One of the cylinders on the engine the PO said needed work registered closer to 150 which I imagine is the number range I want to be around.. odd it’s on the engine that needs work

If one blew 150psi, then your gauge seems fine! I guess you figured that out and a coil was connected incorrectly, didn't know that was even possible,

Making progress!

Measure the low 130psi cylinders again once you get the engine fired up and see where they are, hopefully they don't drop but MAYBE go up (we can hope) or at least stay the same.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Is there a good write up with pictures out there anywhere showing how to pull an engine and re-install? On


I'm trying to weight out my options here.. But I'm wondering what everyone else thinks. The oil is only excessively coming out of one cylinder and not both..

This means only one inner crank seal is leaking, not both. The longer it sits, the more oil will leak into that side of the crankcase and flood i, depending on how much it leaks. If the leak is small, you might not have issues until you let the boat sit for a month or longer.

you'll need a fixture for re-aligning the engine position when you install engines. The fixture mounts in place of the jet pump.

 

[Huntz52]

This means only one inner crank seal is leaking, not both. The longer it sits, the more oil will leak into that side of the crankcase and flood i, depending on how much it leaks. If the leak is small, you might not have issues until you let the boat sit for a month or longer.

you'll need a fixture for re-aligning the engine position when you install engines. The fixture mounts in place of the jet pump.

It seems like a pretty big leak for as much oil as it was pushing out of the cylinder with the spark off within minutes of just emptying the cylinder.. It almost seems immediate.. I think I need to charge my battery back up because when I put the sparks plugs back in and try and turn it over it won't, so I'm thinking not enough juice. Once I get the Oil reservoir buttoned up and not leaking, I'm gonna have another stab at starting the engine. If it starts, I'm gonna take it to the lake and give it some water so I can keep the engines running and let idle for a bit. Day job gets in my way of my projects!!

 

[mikidymac]

If you are leaking that much oil into the one cylinder you have a failed inner crank seal. The only way to fix it is with a remanufactured crank. You can't do the crank yourself.

 

[Huntz52]

If you are leaking that much oil into the one cylinder you have a failed inner crank seal. The only way to fix it is with a remanufactured crank. You can't do the crank yourself.

would replacing the crank be hard for a novice like me?

 

[mikidymac]

If you follow the service manual and use the correct sealants it isn't that bad. You will need th alignment tool to put the engine back in though.

Some people like the idea of a warranty like with SBT and FullBore though.

 

[Huntz52]

If you follow the service manual and use the correct sealants it isn't that bad. You will need th alignment tool to put the engine back in though.

Some people like the idea of a warranty like with SBT and FullBore though.

I was kinda thinking of going with a SBT rebuilt. Since the current engine is already a rebuilt from SBT. I imagine pulling the old engine and taking everything off I need to for the core trade is gonna be some work for me to figure out whats what. I guess its good there are two engines so I can just look at the other one if I forget where something goes. I was watching a video on the SBT site on using the engine alignment tool and it doesn't seem too hard.

 

[Huntz52]

If you follow the service manual and use the correct sealants it isn't that bad. You will need th alignment tool to put the engine back in though.

Some people like the idea of a warranty like with SBT and FullBore though.

Service manual as in something a mechanic would have or just the manual that comes with purchase of the boat?

 

[Huntz52]

If you follow the service manual and use the correct sealants it isn't that bad. You will need th alignment tool to put the engine back in though.

Some people like the idea of a warranty like with SBT and FullBore though.

I just answered my own question by searching for exactly what I asked lol.. I need to download it still but I had no clue these shop manuals existed. This is awesome.

 

[Huntz52]

I haven’t gotten a chance to get the oil reservoir off but will try Friday. Had some time to take a quick video to see if this grommet is supposed to be this loose.. I remember what appears to be the leak coming from the back of the take but is the movement of this grommet normal?

 

[mikidymac]

They will move as it is just a rubber grommet in a blank hole.

If it's leaking from that area of the tank and you don't see any cracks then it's the grommet.

 

[Huntz52]

They will move as it is just a rubber grommet in a blank hole.

If it's leaking from that area of the tank and you don't see any cracks then it's the grommet.

Thanks.
Then from the river of oil coming from the back and flowing to the grommet area was Probably what was going on.

 

[Huntz52]

They will move as it is just a rubber grommet in a blank hole.

If it's leaking from that area of the tank and you don't see any cracks then it's the grommet.

Do i need to clamp the lines or anything before I take the reservoir off? Not worried about a mess, but more or less air in the lines.

 

[Huntz52]

Do i need to clamp the lines or anything before I take the reservoir off? Not worried about a mess, but more or less air in the lines.

I also just thought about what I just asked.... I wanna get that old oil out anyways... Never mind on my last question.... Should I prime the lines with new oil after I fix the leak? or will it self prime when rolling the engines over?

 

[JeremyD615]

You will need to prime the lines going into the pump by opening the bleed screw and letting it gravity feed until there is no air in the supply lines. Once it is primed to the pump, the small lines going to the manifold will self prime.

 

[Huntz52]

You will need to prime the lines going into the pump by opening the bleed screw and letting it gravity feed until there is no air in the supply lines. Once it is primed to the pump, the small lines going to the manifold will self prime.

Thank you

 

[Huntz52]

Got the oil reservoir pulled and found a crack where the bottom bolt is. Gonna try and plastic weld it this weekend. Also found a small tube that went no where... also found two red wires from the gas tank connection that had been cut and seemed to be rewired and possibly connected to each other?Posting video showing everything.