1996xp performance mods- educate me

[CantSWIMbutSEAdoo]

I took it out a couple days ago about 70 degrees. It was a cold ride but I opened it up for about 10 seconds and she ran great. Trim motor is good too. What is the procedure to inspect the impeller? I’d like a little bit more speed and acceleration but I’d still be happy if she ran like that all summer

 

[JeremyD615]

Just get down there with a flashlight and visually inspect both the impeller and the plastic ring that encases it. You should have paper thin clearances all the way around. If you see a lot of daylight between the blades and the wear ring, or chunks missing, or even deep gouges, it’s time for a new wear ring... You’d be really surprised how much of a difference a new wear ring makes compared to one that’s even mildly chewed up.

 

[CantSWIMbutSEAdoo]

Understood. I’ll take a look when it stops raining. Also..... noticed a bit of water in the hull after that ride... what’s the most common deal to fail on the sea doo? I haven’t done a visual inspection yet although I should before posting but just curious. Will be a day or 2 before I get to work on it

 

[JeremyD615]

If it’s just a bit of water, I wouldn’t stress it much. If it’s quite a bit, the first thing to check will be the carbon seal where the driveshaft comes into the hull. the second thing to check will be all of your exhaust cooling lines and water regulator. They tend to leak right at the fitting.

 

[CantSWIMbutSEAdoo]

understood I’ll do some more troubleshooting today or tomorrow. Although it wasn’t a terrible amount of water I’d still like to try and solve the issue

 

[POPPS]

1. You are better off with an aftermarket head to raise compression.
2. No E85 and it will not do anything for performance but will be very hard on your fuel system.
3. A pipe is the best way to add performance.
4. Intake grate will not make your ski faster and can actually make it slower on smooth water. On rough water it will help keep the pump hooked up but it does not actually "make it faster".

Your two best and first mods should be a pipe with rejetted carbs and extended trim tabs.

Contact @Matt Braley here as he has all the parts and info if you want to buy good go fast parts.

I would start by removing your chokes and installing primers, then increase compression ( mild milling or 43 cc domes, and you will need at least 93 octane to avoid detonation. Modifying any seadoo, is not a cookie cutter operation. It will take time, patience, money, and preferably another xp to drag race against, (unless you have a graphing rader gun). Unless you are racing on your local circuits, this would be a comfortable, cost efficient , and fairly safe start. Power and speed costs money, and getting the right set up without blowing up a motor is not easy.

 

[CantSWIMbutSEAdoo]

Yea the 2 strokes I hear are very picky when it comes to detonation. I always run 93 for this Reason. I do have another xp but the engine needs to be rebuilt. Piston got cooked from detonation

 

[noviceskier]

Yea the 2 strokes I hear are very picky when it comes to detonation. I always run 93 for this Reason. I do have another xp but the engine needs to be rebuilt. Piston got cooked from detonation

Running 87 octane in my (stock) kawis and running doo and they are fine. But with performance mods, yes 93 will be needed.

 

[mikidymac]

Yea the 2 strokes I hear are very picky when it comes to detonation. I always run 93 for this Reason. I do have another xp but the engine needs to be rebuilt. Piston got cooked from detonation

If the engine is stock you didn't ruin the pistons from detonition running 87 octane. It was more than likely from running lean. On a stock seadoo all you need to run is 87 and you will not have any octane related issues.

 

[Ckrawiec]

View attachment 40570

Haha...that'll buff right up nice! FREE is always the best price......until you spend more time and money fixing it....DOH! HEHE!