1996 XP died and won't restart

[BCRSKI]

Just purchased this Sea-Doo and it ran fine the first time out. The second time out it ran for a few moments and then died as if someone had hit the kill switch. The engine turns over fine, had spark and seems to have compression. I read some troubleshooting on the DESS. I did not know to pay attention to a beep when I put in the lanyard, but thought I did hear one beep. Now there is no beep. First I cleaned the contact in the lanyard and on the post with no change. I ran the test of pushing start once without the lanyard on and all the lights come on the center gage and the fuel and battery lights stay on for about 30 seconds. I guess that is a timer test and is OK (not sure what timer is for). I then hit the start button 5 times without the lanyard in and I am supposed to get some beep codes. I do not get any beeps. All 4 gage lights come on and after the 5th time hitting the start button the oil light goes off and the temp light blinks once and goes off. Battery and fuel stay on like on the timer test. Does that mean anything? Any other ideas what to check?

 

[artr]

You should probably test the DESS post as outlined in the shop manual. The magnetic switch in it might have failed in which case it will not read your key and not start.

 

[BCRSKI]

What would that disable to prevent starting? I thought it would either be the starter or spark, but the engine cranks fine and has spark.

 

[artr]

Sorry, I thought because you said you thought you heard one beep, that is the beep code for a bad key connection (which you cleaned and checked) but could also mean the MPEM does not recognize the key ( which is why I thought it may be a problem with the DESS post or the wiring to it). Since the engine cranks it is recognizing the key but you should check your beeper and connections to it because you are not getting any beep code. You said it seems to have compression but that would need to be checked with a good gauge. If it has compression and a good spark, it may not be getting fuel. You could visually look at the fuel filter to see if it is full and try dripping a little premixed fuel down each carb to see if it starts and runs for a few seconds.

 

[artr]

Also does it still have the gray fuel lines? If not, do you know if after they were changed, were the carbs rebuilt with genuine Mikuni parts and what procedure was used for the rebuild?

 

[BCRSKI]

I did not get any beep when running. I thought I heard one when moving the wires around. (Should have been more clear on that) I am not getting any beeps now.

I will check the fuel line color in the morning. I do not know the history of the engine so not sure if there have been any rebuilds. What does the gray lines mean?

 

[artr]

The beeper not only can give you diagnostic codes but it is you main signal if the engine is overheating so it should be repair/replaced.
The gray lines are marked Tempo and were the factory fuel lines used on earlier Seadoos. They deteriorate from the methanol that is common in gasoline now. The deterioration results in a green goo that gums up the carburetors and clogs the little mesh filter internal to the carbs. There is a carburetor rebuild thread at the beginning of this forum that gives you all the details you next to do the job step by step.

 

[BCRSKI]

I checked and the supply lines are black and the return line is gray. Not sure if the return line being gray would be a problem, but if it was related to gumming up the carbs wouldn't that be an issue that would get progressively worse in that it would run bad? Eventually not run if not addressed?

This stopped like the kill switch was hit.

 

[BCRSKI]

Also the DESS post wires are but spliced into the wires for the computer module case. I saw in another post of resistance tests to do on the DESS post, but would that need to be done with the post wires disconnected?

 

[artr]

It probably would get worse over time but it sounds like you only rode this ski twice. The only place you could leave the gray lines is on the vent lines.

Did you check that it is getting fuel? There are a number of things that could interrupt fuel flow, like the fuel filter/water separator is clogged, there is a significant air leak in the fuel supply circuit, a faulty fuel selector valve, there is a problem with the pulse line or the fuel pump in the mag carb and others. I think you could test for that by visually inspecting the fuel filter and pulse line but also try the test of a few drops of premix down the carbs. If it then starts and runs for a few seconds you know that it is a fuel supply problem.

The shop manual says to disconnect the black and black/yellow wires in the electrical box so yes, the DESS post is tested disconnected from the MPEM but you should be measuring the resistance of the post and the wiring that runs to it. When you measure it, you should try moving the wires and tapping on the post to see if it affects the reading.

 

[Kirkd2]

This sounds silly, but it has gas in the tank and the gas is turned on, right. Not being a wise ass, but the first time out, I forgot to turn it on.

 

[switt]

If it's turning and getting spark, then it should be fuel. Put gas, or starter fluid, in carb and see if it fires.

 

[Poormanracing]

Turn your valve to reserve crank it and see if fuel is getting to the water separator up under the storage tray.even tho it's turning over good the ignition needs a good battery to fire ignition under compression.you may have spark with plugs out but motor might not be spinning fast enuff with plugs in it.also in the rear electrical box there is a ground wire going from battery thru 6 pin connector to the coil ground held by a cheap self tapping screw into plastic they get crappy