• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1996 Seadoo XP has a pretty flat bottom end on the powerband

Status
Not open for further replies.

Ralster26

New Member
Hello, So I 4 months ago I bought a 1996 Seadoo XP that I have been wanting for a long time, I think its completely stock, I brought it home and performed the following things.

Full carb kit rebuilds on both carbs with genuine Mikuni carb kits w/new needle and seats and I used the same springs that was already in the carbs -- pop off pressure like 32 or 33psi, new stainless steel hex head screw hardware through both carbs (replacing the in my opinion easily wallard out phillips screw heads that come wit the mikuni) High speed needle zero turns out and low speed I think is 1 turn out I set it at whatever the manual said was a stock.

New wear ring OEM with pump oil change and neoprene seal

Replaced grey tempo lines with Tygon 4040A yellow lines, all breather hoses everything

Replaced fuel selector (thanks Chris @ watercraft magic)

RAVE vale bellows, retaining springs and gaskets and cleaned all, Red caps set flush (thanks Chris @ watercraft magic)

Small Skidoo vented oil tank for rotary valve lube for the Premix conversion and Im running 93 or 91 Octane with Seadoo XPS full synthetic oil@ 40:1 ratio

New clear Vinyl cooling lines all around

Did the rotary valve timing with the plastic degree wheel using the instructions from the seadoo manual

New Gaskets: rotary valve intake manifold, Carb to intake manifold, headpipe on the jug side and the tuned pipe side, pulled the exhaust cupler clamp thing and reseated it and used the red high temp gasket maker. (thanks Chris @ watercraft magic for my complete gasket kit)

Oil pump removed and oil block off kit installed (thanks Chris @ watercraft magic for the block off kit)

Found a water leak on the bottom of the tuned pipe freeze plug had a 1/4" billet aluminum disk welded over it. (thanks again to Chris at Watercraft Magic for telling me to look for that leak)

Pulled the waterbox regulator valve it moves fine and was not clogged/ Screwed red cap all the way down then out three turns per the seadoo manual

New electrical rectifier

Fuel screen inside the tank checked and is clean, water/fuel separator took apart cleaned

New Floyd Bell chirper

Ok so I think that was everything I have done so far and here is my problem. The ski barks right off and runs fine even from dead cold and runs fine on the water hose, I put it in the water and it runs good there too lots of grunt on the bottom end (but only from like 35% throttle or so-see later in explanation) and scary top end power and speed. The only thing is that from 0% to about 30% throttle is kinda blah its like all the same amount of power not really planed off just kind of lugging but not bogging or acting funny just 0% to about 30% throttle seems like its all the same-ish and its not super crisp like i can slam it from a dead stop to WOT and there is probably a 3/4 of a second delay but ALL the power is there when it does hit and its not building up to the power when it hits its all there all at once. If you push it past that 30%-ish throttle amount toward 40% throttle it comes unglued with tons of power.

Other than that Im totally happy with this ski I love it I just need to get the power-band ironed out and ill be gtg.

thanks for the input guys ill be running to the garage to try the suggestions as they come in lol
 
Also I synced the carbs best I could at idle I shined a light through them and put my mouth on them and blew through them and felt about the same resistance and at WOT the butterfly's on both were straight
 
It is hard to say as you did everything you should on a new to you ski.
I will say that if you just nail the throttle wide open from a dead stop there will be a delay before it actually takes off. The reason is that these carbs don't have an accelerator pump so when you nail the throttle from a stop there is not enough velocity at that moment to start drawing fuel into the engine. It is just the way they operate.
 
Ya that makes sense, I guess that kinda just leaves the throttle flatness on the bottom. You know when my wife was on it with me it was worst and annoying we were either in that blah state of power or accelerating, cant just cruise.
 
One question I was going to ask if anyone knew was when running on the water hose if you hit the throttle and revv it up will the water from the regulator on the waterbox shoot toward the pipe? or will it only do that sitting in the water? The reason I ask is because on the water hose when i rev it up I don't see any water headed up the hose (clear hose) toward the tuned pipe so maybe the water regulator isnt working properly?
 
No. It needs the water pressure from the pump to activate it. When on the hose you are actually reverse flushing it so since the water just dumps out the pump there is no pressure on the muffler RAVE spring.
 
Ahh see I didnt know that I fooled around with that thing on the hose for a while thinking why the crap wont that water shoot into the tuned pipe. So what do you think about maybe the low speed screw and the high speed too far apart? They both set at stock H is zero turns and L is 1 turn out, what if I did 1 and 1/2 turns out on the low speed needle on both carbs you think some bridge needs to be gapped there? or is that a silly idea?
 
The low speed needs more than one turn...
I think it's like 1 1/2 or 1 3/4... not sure... check manual.
But def needs more than 1
 
I have mine on like an 1/8 past 1 on lows and it loads when idling through no wake zones and requires a quick blip of the throttle to clear it out before I hammer down. I can also smell it's REALLY rich when idling. I barely rode last year or I would have adjusted it back to stock. If anything I'd test it with VERY small turns out to see if it helps. I'd venture to guess it won't
 
I might try really small tweaks out on the L needle. Is that how that works can you bridge a gap between idle and pop off by increasing the low speed needle? Or I wonder if im barking up the wrong tree altogether and its a rave valve or water regulator problem. but besides rebuilding the raves and checking the water regulator for movement and function and setting the red caps at what the manual says then i dont know what else can be done to the valves and water reg.
 
Stock Seadoo's will run perfectly with the stock carb settings. If yours doesn't you have something else wrong.
 
You can hook hose water up before the regulator so it enters the system like the pump feeds it. This way you can check for leaks and confirm that it's giving the pipe a squirt of water as it should.

The other thing is RAVES. You describe a ski that sounds like it has no rave spring under the cap. If it does then my question would be "has it ever been rebuilt"? I say that because when you bore the cylinder for a larger piston then the raves have to be filed back so they don't hit the piston. If someone has ground too much off the rave then it will kill bottom end.

Low compression will do it to. An engine with 115 or 120 per hole will run but act like this.
 
Mikidmac said if it doesn't run well on stock settings then there is something wrong with it. But I just backed the lowspeed needle out another half turn and it smoothed out the transition from bottom to top on the powerband. So half turn more on L needle and it pretty gtg
 
Mikidmac said if it doesn't run well on stock settings then there is something wrong with it. But I just backed the lowspeed needle out another half turn and it smoothed out the transition from bottom to top on the powerband. So half turn more on L needle and it pretty gtg

So is it really good? Like if you mash the throttle it takes off hard? My SPX has a 787 and it takes off HARD. The gsx 787 not so much. I got the low speed needles set at 1 on gsx. I think it's at 1.5 on SPX. Checked spark plugs and they look great. Just checked water regulator and bottom clamp was completely gone... rusted away so I used a small tie.
Sorry I might be high jacking thread.....
 
Ya the book says 1 turn out on the Low speed jet circuit and I have it at 1 1/2 turns out and it smoothed the power band out and it hits hard as I pass the No Wake buoy and hammer it full throttle its hooks up and jumps onto plane and away I go.
 
Someone told me the water box RAVE wont do its job on the hose because its back flushing it. I took off from the pier with no seat on and I have clear cooling lines and it is indeed squirting the water into the muffler/waterbox as it is supposed to. I just unscrewed the waterbox RAVE and made sure it moved freely and put it back on. I also used the small like 3 inch zip ties to secure it and has been fine since.
 
I got another set of carbs to try on gsx. Different popoff and I just went through the carbs completely.
Tomm to the water to test!
 
You can get a set of genuine mikuni kits online for like 40$ each, also I highly recommend getting full stainless hex head hardware kit from eBay for those carbs to replace the Phillips screws also I ordered a #3 and #2 JIS Japanese Industrial standard screwdriver from azon and didn't have any trouble with stripping screw heads from stuck screws
 
Well just a quick update...
Turns out the carbs were rebuilt recently with non mikuni parts. Sooo off to eBay....
I got a very clean low hour set from eBay and I just took them apart and cleaned them. Put new needles and seats just because I had them and installed them.
Turns out it ran GREAT. Bottom end was very good. Crispy. Always use genuine mikuni parts!
 
Hey that's great! I just ordered 2 genuine Mikuni rebuild kits 39$ each from national carburetor in FL. for an spx I just bought.
 
Make sure the three little holes near the throttle plate are really clean when you spray out your carbs. See the sticky at the top of this forum on carbs. If they are plugged, you will loose bottom end crispness. They may be plugged and you are kind of hiding that with richer settings. DL the Mikuni manual Great reading. Low end is pop-off, and the LS screws. But the jet orifices have to be clean. http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top