1996 Seadoo spx engine problem

[Legarsky56]

I have a 1996 Seadoo spx. I tested it in the water yesterday and it is not running right. It moves slow and when I give it gas it doesn't want to move fast. Bogging out a little and a lot of smoke. Does anyone know what it could be?

 

[pags1220]

Does the rpms rev higher ?

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[Jetskigoodies]

Sounds like it is probably a dirty carb.
Give us some more information.
Does your seadoo still have the grey fuel lines?
Have you done a compression check?
Compression is perfect at 150 it is acceptable down to 130. But each cylinder will need to be close to the same number.

The grey fuel lines will break down internally and clog your carbs. If you have them they need to be replaced asap. Just use automotive lines from your local auto parts store. You will need about 25 ft. Replace them one at a time so you are putting them back correctly. You will need to also clean out the carbs. Your internal filters probably are filled with green gunk from the lines.

 

[Legarsky56]

Actually they might. What would it be the rectifier?

 

[pags1220]

If the rpms are increasing but your speed isn't. It may be the wear ring. I'm sure loudoo or one of the more knowledgeable member will chime in. Check the clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. It should be no greater then the thickness of a dime.

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[Legarsky56]

And yes I still have the grey lines.

 

[pags1220]

I recommend what jetskigoodies said to do as well. I just purchased a ski and had to do all of those things as well. Now she starts right up

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[Jetskigoodies]

I will gaurentee we found your problem. Just cleaning the carbs will only be a bandaid, make sure the lines get changed out asap. Right now if you keep running it you will blow your motor because you will be running lean.

 

[Legarsky56]

I purchased the ski after the wear ring was replaced. But I am going to check it.

 

[Legarsky56]

Ok thanks guys. How would I clean them. And I just want to note that it will rev up when it is out of the water and hose is connected.

 

[pags1220]

I recommend buying a rebuild kit and new needles and seats. There's a guy on here who sells them. Make sure the carbs are set back to factory specs and change those lines as well as the fuel selector valve you should be good with that

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[Jetskigoodies]

Ok thanks guys. How would I clean them. And I just want to note that it will rev up when it is out of the water and hose is connected.

Revving out of the water isnt a good way to test it, it needs to be in the water to have a load on it. You also may not need a rebuild kit. They may just need a good cleaning. If you want to rebuild them then you can do so. I personally would, juat because you already have them apart. If you do buy a rebuild kit make sure you use you original spring.

To clean the carbs, first turn the fuel off. Then remove the 6 plastic clips on your airbox. Now remove the screws 6 screws holding the airbox and bracket on. A good tip here is to pull the choke and lock it closed. You want the butterflies closed so you dont accidently drop anything down the carbs. The airbox should pull off now. Remove the spark arrestor, now remove the 4 screws holding the bracket to the carbs. And the 2 screws holding the bracket to the motor. The bracket should be free. Now remove the 4 bolts holding the carbs to the block. Now remove the worm clamp from the pulse nipple on the block it will be directly below the right carb. Now disconnect the fuel line from the far left side of the left carb. All that is left is to disconnect the choke and throttle cable. Disconnect those you will need a 10 mm wrench for the nuts. Just remove the end nut on the throttle cable, it will then pull through leave the other nut where it is since it is already positioned correctly.

Ok carbs are off. If you have never cleaned carbs before do it one side at a time. Take all of the fuel lines off, take a picture so you remember how they go on. Now take one cover off at a time. Take all the peices out and spray the body with brake cleaner and use a small wire brush on the metal parts only. Wipe all the other parts with a rag or paper towel. Do not spray or wipe the needle. The filter you can just tap on the table and the gunk will come out, then spray it with carb cleaner.

If you buy a rebuild kit just replace what you take out. Make sure everything goes back in the way it came out. Video yourself taking it apart so you can have something to look at if you forget a step.


These will be a huge help, metric hex head sockets. $8 at harbor freight




These are what the carbs look like, the filter is under the square plste, not the plate with the circle.

These are the filters that will most likely be clogged


This is what they will look like completely apart.

 

[Coastiejoe]

And yes I still have the grey lines.

No MATTER what else may be the present issue. Until the lines are replaced, carbs rebuilt or MAJOR clean job, fuel selector cleans or replaced, then nothing else matters. Once these lines start to break down it affects every aspect of your ski. You engine will run lean due to less oil and can cause catastrophic engine damage. It owuld be nice to KNOW what is wrong and test the engine and what not. But,,, each test is less and less oil the engine is getting.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

This is probably what your filters look like

 

[Legarsky56]

Update. Cleaned carbs and changed lines. Not the problem. It revs up high but moves slow and vibration. I'm scared but could it be the splines on the drive shaft spinning?

 

[pags1220]

Did you double check the wear ring?

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[Legarsky56]

There is a small gap all the way around the ring and impeller. I am going to remove the nozzle and take a better look. See I bought the Seadoo off of a marina. The previous owner sucked up some string and they replaced the ring. Now my guess is that it did more damage.

 

[pags1220]

Maybe they used a old wear ring from another ski. If I'm not mistaken it should be .40 gap or less. If the ski is moving and revving up freely. From what I understand from my research sounds like it could be just that of the wear ring. I m by no means a expert as I just acquired my first ski a few weeks ago. But I have read a lot through the threads. Cavitation sounds like it may be the problem

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[pags1220]

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[Jetskigoodies]

Were the carbs dirty? Were the filters free of debris. When you take the pump off check the pump oil. That should be changed on a yearly basis. Well at least you knocked out the fuel lines. It could be the wear ring if a dime can slide through the impeller and wear ring than it needs to be replaced.

 

[pags1220]

Possibly the impeller as well no? Check for chips or burrows on the tips. I think there's a place you can send yours and get a refurbished one in exchange for a small fee.

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[Legarsky56]

What does the wear ring do? And when I give it gas it feels like something is spinning.

 

[kicker]

Sounds like cavitation. The wear ring is what keeps the clearance tight against the impeller. If the gap is too big the impeller is not able to get a good grip on the water to propel you forward.

The other cause of cavitation is the carbon seal on the driveshaft. If it is not snug against the stainless steel ring the impeller will pull air through the carbon seal area. When there is excessive air around your impeller that will cause a loss of grip as well. Check the black carbon seal for uneven wear or junks missing. Make sure there is good tension of the black bellow, you can tighten it up a bit by putting grease in the zerk fitting and sliding the black bellow forward a bit and putting a tie wrap in behind it.

 

[pags1220]

Hmmm I don't think my ski ha that bellow. Awkward lol I need to double check mine now lol

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[Legarsky56]

Ok updated... My carbon seal moves left and right and I can push it back. My impeller has some nicks and pits on the edges. And the bad part when I spin the impeller it hits of of one side of the wear ring.