1996 seadoo gtx won’t go in water
- Thread starter Jpwat
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- seadoo gtx 1996
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12v low can be thrown either because the 12V battery is bad (low voltage) or if the regulator is bad. In my case, the regulator was producing *too much* voltage but was throwing that code.
I think they intentionally designed the MPEM to provide a 12V low code when regulator problems were detected.
Have you disconnected the 12V battery and charged it with an external charger? Did you new regulator arrive yet?
I think they intentionally designed the MPEM to provide a 12V low code when regulator problems were detected.
Have you disconnected the 12V battery and charged it with an external charger? Did you new regulator arrive yet?
I charged the battery but it did not crank. New regulator is due to arrive monday. Will update then
You have a separate issue from the regulator then. The regulator provides 12V power to charge the battery and run the sea doo when the engine is spinning. If the engine is not spinning, the regulator doesn't have any impact on the system.
You need to start troubleshooting your solenoid, start stop button, and starter circuits.
You need to start troubleshooting your solenoid, start stop button, and starter circuits.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I'd say take on one problem at a time, throwing parts at it and guessing isn't going to solve anything. If you bought the ski recently and it's now running crappy even after a rebuilt engine and 'rebuilt' carbs you need to look at everything as suspect or not done properly..
First thing, and it was recommended to you by @mikidymac in post #16, you need to rebuild the carbs to the letter with genuine oem kits before going any further. Adjust everything properly after reinstalling, set idle, cables, etc then if you're still having issues there's the next step. New fuel lines, fuel selector, and fuel strainer oring are a good practice. If you've done all that, you'd do a fuel bypass to narrow it down.
Then there's next steps if you're still having run issues, clip back the spark plug wires on each end to improve connectivity from the coil to the plugs. Are plugs properly gaped?
It wasn't having a starting problem before, so you need to back up and figure out why that's happening now after you pulled the carbs off, but again, I'd go through the carbs do a full rebuild with new oem kits. why? if you can't verify for sure..
You never did a test to rule out if the rectifier is bad or not, it was only an assumption someone else having similar symptoms it would fix it. The '12 volt low' is perfectly normal while cranking, even with a new fully charged battery, it'll clear up once the ski starts. The info gauge picks it up when below 12.4 volts, which it'll dip below that while cranking, not a big concern.
First thing, and it was recommended to you by @mikidymac in post #16, you need to rebuild the carbs to the letter with genuine oem kits before going any further. Adjust everything properly after reinstalling, set idle, cables, etc then if you're still having issues there's the next step. New fuel lines, fuel selector, and fuel strainer oring are a good practice. If you've done all that, you'd do a fuel bypass to narrow it down.
Then there's next steps if you're still having run issues, clip back the spark plug wires on each end to improve connectivity from the coil to the plugs. Are plugs properly gaped?
It wasn't having a starting problem before, so you need to back up and figure out why that's happening now after you pulled the carbs off, but again, I'd go through the carbs do a full rebuild with new oem kits. why? if you can't verify for sure..
You never did a test to rule out if the rectifier is bad or not, it was only an assumption someone else having similar symptoms it would fix it. The '12 volt low' is perfectly normal while cranking, even with a new fully charged battery, it'll clear up once the ski starts. The info gauge picks it up when below 12.4 volts, which it'll dip below that while cranking, not a big concern.
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