1996 MPEM Issues

[ezryder]

Hi! I'm rewiring a 1996 Speedster that has twin 717's & twin MPEM's(Part #'s: 278000474 / 278000821 / 278000423). Does anyone have a good wiring diagram on what wires go where (color-coded) easy to read & figure out or any pics that someone could send me? I need the info starting from the wiring harness coming in to the electrical box and then running to the mpem's. I really do appreciate it. Thank you so much!

 

[racerxxx]

Talk to [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] he already offers this kit ready to rock. But since you have the MPEM's already perhaps he could just do the wiring end of it for a fee. Way faster then you sitting down and wondering did I get it right.


http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...EM-on-your-96-97-jetboat-Now-you-have-options!

 

[Minnetonka4me]

pm replied.

Unfortunately the first problem I see is he bought incorrect MPEMs to even attempt it.

 

[racerxxx]

In the words of Homer Simpson.....DOH!

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[brian lewis087]

there are other alturnatives of installing a conversion kit

IMO bad move

the neutral safety switch It must be disabled. so anyone can start it in any gear and crash the boat before they even have a clue of what to do to prevent a crash

the low fuel warning system is disabled, with all gauges will not working
another bad choice

and on some boat the alarms will not work

do you still have the oem mpem

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Brian please elaborate with what other options you know of?

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[ezryder]

I have the one bad mpem that came off boat as it had these part#'s on it. I bought boat like this with the 2 mpem's.

 

[brian lewis087]

when you bought the boat , did the person give you the OEM MPEM or just the two aftermarket mpems

 

[brian lewis087]

the mpem on 720 motors and before , do not control the timing like the mpem on 800 and 951's do. so you can bypass the Mpem and install digital rev-limiters . [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] would you like to chime in here too.he walk me through the proses before.

 

[Waterluvr]

Someone paged me? That @ feature is cool, so welcome to the forum ezryder let's get you headed toward the launch ramp instead of holding down a trailer there is no such thing as won't or can't work when it comes to the era of 717's and smaller Sea Doo engines they don't even need MPEM's to run just about everything that matters for those is already in the e boxes.

You can eliminate MPEM's completely by adding rev limiters to the existing e boxes (I use Micro Touch MT-REV-SD92-97), install new fuse blocks, relays to safely isolate voltage to two new start switches and kill lanyards and your back on the water and we can get into that further if you really need to go that route but first let's see about your original MPEM.

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like you have the original single MPEM from the boat still yes? Odds are it has the blown 5 amp fuse issue causing it to ground your CDI and you have no ignition on account of that. On that particular MPEM it's not hard to fix if that's the problem it's just a faulty MR2535L diode and it's located to the left of the 5 amp fuse location under the potting. It takes about an hour to dig that one out and replace it, the diodes cost just a few dollars it's the easiest of all the boat MPEM's to fix and it can be left up a little higher to gain access to if it ever happens again.

I can walk you through bench testing that, easy enough to do so long as the original wiring harness hasn't been hacked. Even if it has I'll get you all the wire colors and connections to get it right just lmk and we'll go from there.

 

[brian lewis087]

waterluvr
that is awesome . ty again for that. I hope a lot of people go that route instead of using the two mpem conversions.
IMO not safe at all ....not havening neutral safety switch or gauges

 

[Waterluvr]

waterluvr
that is awesome . ty again for that. I hope a lot of people go that route instead of using the two mpem conversions.
IMO not safe at all ....not havening neutral safety switch or gauges

Glad to help, no reason on that particular boat not to start with the original module and see about making it whole again costs less than $5.00 for the diode and silicone to seal it back for a DIY project.

Those two Speedsters you bought last year that were missing the MPEM's obviously weren't an option so using aftermarket limiters is the most cost effective repair you just have to respect the voltage levels those CDI's generate and isolate them accordingly from the start and kill circuits which is why I insisted on building the first set for you.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I'm not sure what the difference is here... If he puts in micro touch rev limiters he still has no neutral safety switches and you still have to deal with getting the rest of the electronics working.

I do agree it would be nice to have the neutral safety switch but I'd rather delete that and have two seperate, easily sourced mpems. If you have experience with jetboats you know of the stupid cdi issues just affecting one motor... With the conversion you aren't pulling your hair out replacing a very expensive mpem that kind of works... Just swap the mpem controlling that side and you are back in business.

But to each their own...

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[ezryder]

Someone paged me? That @ feature is cool, so welcome to the forum ezryder let's get you headed toward the launch ramp instead of holding down a trailer there is no such thing as won't or can't work when it comes to the era of 717's and smaller Sea Doo engines they don't even need MPEM's to run just about everything that matters for those is already in the e boxes.

You can eliminate MPEM's completely by adding rev limiters to the existing e boxes (I use Micro Touch MT-REV-SD92-97), install new fuse blocks, relays to safely isolate voltage to two new start switches and kill lanyards and your back on the water and we can get into that further if you really need to go that route but first let's see about your original MPEM.

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like you have the original single MPEM from the boat still yes? Odds are it has the blown 5 amp fuse issue causing it to ground your CDI and you have no ignition on account of that. On that particular MPEM it's not hard to fix if that's the problem it's just a faulty MR2535L diode and it's located to the left of the 5 amp fuse location under the potting. It takes about an hour to dig that one out and replace it, the diodes cost just a few dollars it's the easiest of all the boat MPEM's to fix and it can be left up a little higher to gain access to if it ever happens again.

I can walk you through bench testing that, easy enough to do so long as the original wiring harness hasn't been hacked. Even if it has I'll get you all the wire colors and connections to get it right just lmk and we'll go from there.

I'd like to say "THANK YOU SO MUCH" for all the info! So nice to know that there is maybe light at the end of this tunnel.

Anyway, I do not have the original single mpem that came with boat. I was told from seller that he had a dealer switch to 2 mpem in case 1 of the motors quit that he could get back to dock.

I do have 2 good & 1 bad mpem's. When I rewired the 2 mpem's, I have no power now when pushing starter button on dash. I'm by no means an electrician but just dont have alot of money to shell out for a dealer.(sorry) I'm willing to take time to learn things though. Anyway, can i take a couple of good close pics for you to view and maybe go from there? I think I know of the wire where I went wrong, but dont know where it connects to. I really appreciate your time.... Thank you!

 

[brian lewis087]

I'd like to say "THANK YOU SO MUCH" for all the info! So nice to know that there is maybe light at the end of this tunnel.

Anyway, I do not have the original single mpem that came with boat. I was told from seller that he had a dealer switch to 2 mpem in case 1 of the motors quit that he could get back to dock.

I do have 2 good & 1 bad mpem's. When I rewired the 2 mpem's, I have no power now when pushing starter button on dash. I'm by no means an electrician but just dont have alot of money to shell out for a dealer.(sorry) I'm willing to take time to learn things though. Anyway, can i take a couple of good close pics for you to view and maybe go from there? I think I know of the wire where I went wrong, but dont know where it connects to. I really appreciate your time.... Thank you!

yes please show us pictures

 

[ezryder]

 

[ezryder]

If I need to take more pics at a different view or closer up or move some wires out of the way, I'll do that too. Probably have to do tomorrow cause sunlight is almost gone [emoji31] also, the last pic, is of the mpem that was bad but still shows color coded wires....

 

[Waterluvr]

I'd like to say "THANK YOU SO MUCH" for all the info! So nice to know that there is maybe light at the end of this tunnel.

Anyway, I do not have the original single mpem that came with boat. I was told from seller that he had a dealer switch to 2 mpem in case 1 of the motors quit that he could get back to dock.

I do have 2 good & 1 bad mpem's. When I rewired the 2 mpem's, I have no power now when pushing starter button on dash. I'm by no means an electrician but just dont have alot of money to shell out for a dealer.(sorry) I'm willing to take time to learn things though. Anyway, can i take a couple of good close pics for you to view and maybe go from there? I think I know of the wire where I went wrong, but dont know where it connects to. I really appreciate your time.... Thank you!

No problem, we'll see if what you have on hand can be made to work first. If you need to go with the Micro Touch limiters you won't lose gauge functions, you'll have an audible neutral safety indicator and you'll retain the temperature overheat alarms for both engines. I'll be glad to tell you exactly how to wire that all in and I'm not going to try and sell you anything in the process but it's not getting posted here in the thread. This requires isolating the start and kill switches with relays, somebody reading this gets that part wrong and the operator of the watercraft can be exposed to the primary pulse voltage of the CDI units and that won't end well.

You can get some of what you need aside from the tethers out of any average auto yard for the start switches, relays, fuse blocks etc. if money is tight.

I'll send you my contact info, it's way faster to do some of this by phone / email my forum notifications haven't worked right since the last update and if you will please update your thread as you go and post the results when done to give other readers some information you won't be the only one this season with a dead Speedster MPEM unfortunately.

 

[ezryder]

Yes, I'll be more than happy to post info on the results of this process.... My email is sscotty2@hotmail.com if you need to send to it.... Thank you again!

 

[Minnetonka4me]

There is NO way to have a neutral safety setup without the original mpem. I know you are a smart guy waterlovr but I've been around seadoos a long time and there are no options unless you are building some custom electronics.

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[Waterluvr]

There is NO way to have a neutral safety setup without the original mpem. I know you are a smart guy waterlovr but I've been around seadoos a long time and there are no options unless you are building some custom electronics.

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No where have I indicated the traditional neutral safety feature ignition override found in the OEM boat module will be present in a conversion. If you go back and read what I wrote it clearly states "you'll have an audible neutral safety indicator".

That means when the key(s) are turned you'll hear the dash buzzer give an audible signal the lever is in the neutral position, if it's silent the boat is in either F/R.

This is why I don't post specific wiring information for conversions, semantics and reading comprehension are all over the place.

 

[racerxxx]

No where have I indicated the traditional neutral safety feature ignition override found in the OEM boat module will be present in a conversion. If you go back and read what I wrote it clearly states "you'll have an audible neutral safety indicator".

That means when the key(s) are turned you'll hear the dash buzzer give an audible signal the lever is in the neutral position, if it's silent the boat is in either F/R.

This is why I don't post specific wiring information for conversions, semantics and reading comprehension are all over the place.

I think the audible is backwards and it should be quite when in neutral. It should sound when it's in forward or reverse to tell you "It's not the time to start me". Just like the MPEM would do when you try and start it in forward or reverse. Couldn't you also just wire thru the NSS the the exciter for the start solenoids? Obviously you'd need two switches on a twin engine boat.

 

[Waterluvr]

I think the audible is backwards and it should be quite when in neutral. It should sound when it's in forward or reverse to tell you "It's not the time to start me". Just like the MPEM would do when you try and start it in forward or reverse. Couldn't you also just wire thru the NSS the the exciter for the start solenoids? Obviously you'd need two switches on a twin engine boat.

Agreed, that would be a better way but to date I haven't figured out how to wire it like that and retain the signal from the temperature sensors if one completes the circuit.

 

[Waterluvr]

UPDATE:
This was a fun project, the boat owner is just about one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet and after a little trouble shooting on the phone with him to test and isolate some wiring functions I was able to work up a solution to use the ski MPEM's he already had and for someone with no real background in electronics or even basic wiring he did a great job following instructions and getting everything hooked up correctly.

Atta boy Scott! I hope you sleep better now that your boat is no longer an expensive driveway decoration, your not alone in having had this problem. For anyone that finds himself in a similar situation with a dead boat MPEM running twin 717's or 650's these aftermarket ski MPEM's are a very cost effective way to get the boat back in service by doing a conversion using new electronics.

WSM offers brand new replacement modules (Item #: 004-220-01) two of them at a cost of less than $400 total for brand new electronics will make a boat whole again aside from the neutral safety and it's about a two hour job start to finish.

Contact [MENTION=2]hfgreg[/MENTION] to purchase those MPEM's and support the site and get in touch with me if you find yourself in a similar situation I'll be glad to help you get them wired in correctly and safely. This is a much easier DIY job than adding rev limiters and associated switches and relays as I have typically done them in the past and nothing on the dash changes the current DESS post works for both units and the start / stop switches function as they always have.

 

[ezryder]

UPDATE:
This was a fun project, the boat owner is just about one of the nicest guys you'll ever meet and after a little trouble shooting on the phone with him to test and isolate some wiring functions I was able to work up a solution to use the ski MPEM's he already had and for someone with no real background in electronics or even basic wiring he did a great job following instructions and getting everything hooked up correctly.

Atta boy Scott! I hope you sleep better now that your boat is no longer an expensive driveway decoration, your not alone in having had this problem. For anyone that finds himself in a similar situation with a dead boat MPEM running twin 717's or 650's these aftermarket ski MPEM's are a very cost effective way to get the boat back in service by doing a conversion using new electronics.

WSM offers brand new replacement modules (Item #: 004-220-01) two of them at a cost of less than $400 total for brand new electronics will make a boat whole again aside from the neutral safety and it's about a two hour job start to finish.

Contact [MENTION=2]hfgreg[/MENTION] to purchase those MPEM's and support the site and get in touch with me if you find yourself in a similar situation I'll be glad to help you get them wired in correctly and safely. This is a much easier DIY job than adding rev limiters and associated switches and relays as I have typically done them in the past and nothing on the dash changes the current DESS post works for both units and the start / stop switches function as they always have.

I am new to this forum and am very glad that I joined thanks to Waterluvr. He was very generous to give me so much of his time. It took about 1-2 hours to convert both the MPEM's on my 1996 Seadoo Speedster Twin 717's. He was there through every step telling me exactly what to do next and was very easy to understand his directions. Now my family and I can do more than just look at it. He saved me a lot of time, money, and headache. I spent a decent amount of money taking it from place to place and it was for nothing. Everyone that looked at it was happy to take the money to tell me they couldn't fix it or didn't know what was wrong with it. Waterluvr knew the exact problem and exactly how to fix it without ever seeing the boat in person. I cannot thank him enough. He also helped me with other concerns/questions with my Seadoo and was happy to do so. I HIGHLY recommend [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] for any Seadoo trouble shooting, Maintenance, or repairs.