• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1996 GTI - No Fuel After "Rebuild" of Carb.

Status
Not open for further replies.
triumph3434

triumph3434

Active Member
Just took in 1996 GTI. Here is History:
Owner had someone replace Fuel lines and Rebuild Carbs over summer.
Owner Took it out and would die at High end. Brought it back to Guy to Fix. Guy Fixed.
Owner took it out and would not start at all. Runs fine on Fuel dumped into Carb. He said to hell with it, bought a new Ski and sold GTi to me.
Now I have GTI. I haven't yet opened the carbs, i want to first have a full understanding and get some help from yall.
I have read this: The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread
Current situation:
Runs Fine When I Put Fuel in Carb, I can keep it running by manually adding premix. But gets no fuel through jets, i stop adding fuel and it dies.
I have verified all new fuel lines are correctly hooked up. Fuel On/Res/Off seems to work fine. Screw on Fuel Filter O Ring is Good. Fuel is Getting to Carb fine.
Vacuum Pump seems to work. I determine this because I can Pull the Return line and Fuel comes out from the Return from Both Carbs when Running. To me that indicates that the Pump is working, and the Filters are not Clogged. Are those Correct determinations? Logic correct?
Does that also indicate that Needle Valves are both opening?

So fuel is flowing but not going through Jets>
Why? Clogged jets?

Anything Simple im Missing?

What else do i need to think about and look at?
Thank you all for any help. I am very familiar with Carbs, but please speak as if Im not, LOL, makes it easier for all in the future.

PS> i did search forum and read a lot already, just looking for some critical thinking.
 
Are the carb kits genuine Mikuni kits?

Genuine Mikuni Needle/Seats?

You made no mention about the N/S. So that is why I ask.
 
Thanks, I don't know yet. Havent opened. It did run first time after the rebuild though. You think Genuine is super important?

Because fuel is flowing, that means the Pump is opening right?
 
Genuine Mikuni is the only thing that is important. They will not run on the aftermarket junk carb parts.
 
triumph3434 said:
Thanks, I don't know yet. Havent opened. It did run first time after the rebuild though. You think Genuine is super important?

Because fuel is flowing, that means the Pump is opening right?
Click to expand...
Save yourself time, trouble and aggravation....if in doubt....start over with GENUINE MIKUNI kits/parts. All else is a fools errand.....you might get it to run on Aftermarket parts but it'll never be right in the long run......been there, done that....feel like getting stranded on the water anyone???????
 
OK, so I dont know if the Rebuild was aftermarket or not...

But, what I found was two stuck needle valves. They just had a bit of Gum on them and were not moving. Cleaned and they moved freeley.

Now the question, is it possible that they got stuck because the spring is too strong, pressing htem hard into the hole or something like that?

What might make a brand new needle valve stick, get gummed up?

So she runs great now.

To answer my quesiton from earlier about the Fuel flowing through... The fuel flows through around the Needle valves, So for anyone looking in the future. The fuel pump Diaphram was good and fuel was flowing through both carbs, but the needles were not opening to allow the fuel to the
 
It could be old fuel varnish.
The spring will not cause the needles to stick. If you can see a grove on the needles rubber tip they need to be replaced. If they are aftermarket they need to be replaced.
 
Yea, it seemed like old fuel varnish.... The needle was Deff new. I still dont know if its aftermarket or not, no way i can tell.... we will see what happens in the spring, LOL gotta wait a few months now.
 
Genuine Mikuni needles and seats have a small square within a square stamped on the bottom of the brass seat next to the stamping for the size like 1.5.
 
OK, got it in the water. Seemed good, but then you give it gas and it has fuel issues at high rpm. Dies. If you lay off you can get it to idle again but it has to get fuel first. Seems like just a fuel delivery problem because it runs great for a few seconds.. Then starves for fuel.. you lay off and it struggles to idle then gets fuel back and then you can do it all over again.

Any ideas on that?

Another question. The oil injection. the Trottle linkage goes to first carb, then second carb, then the cable goes tot he oil injector. When I pull the throttle, the Oil Injector stays on, it dosnt have enough force in the spring to pull the cable back. Common issue? Cable seems fine, its not sticking, its just that the oil injector spring is not strong enough... Do I replace the spring? Any idea where to get it?

Third question. Looked for the Square in Square and size on the needle. Not there. So Ill replace it with a full authentic kit. Can you point me in the right direction of where to order it? What Do i need exactly?

Last one. New Fuel hoses. Any chance there is an air leak in the connections? Wouldn't show up until high rpm? Feel like my clamps aren't on that tight, Im get tighter ones but wondering if this is a possibility.

Thanks for your help
 
Before you start trying to diagnose the fueling issues go ahead and get those genuine mikuni parts in there. It sure sounds like symptoms of a non-genuine rebuild kit.

As for the oil pump, it's supposed to open when you pull the throttle and close when you let off. If it's not closing ever there is definitely an issue. While it probably wouldn't cause any serious issues other than excess smoke, if it's staying open it's pumping too much oil.
 
Yea, So think I can just put a stronger spring on the oil pump? I cant seem to find that spring anywhere. Anyone got a part number for it?
 
If the spring is there it is because you have wound it the wrong way. The springs don't just go bad.
 
Pull the cable off the pump arm and play around with it to see what's going on. Its very easy to install it wrong by winding the arm the wrong way as miki said
 
OK, I got the Kit. Now, I have a Pop off gauge on he way. But the guage does not come with adapters to fit in the Carb Hole... Where do I get that? little plastic piece connects to the Clear Line of the pop off gauge, and seats in the carb to seal so the pressure holds? The Pop off gauge just comes w a hose it looks like w no adapters..

Then, all the tutorials say to replace the spring color with the one that was already in there.... since I am replacing an aftermarket rebuild kit that I didnt install, i dont know what the original spring was...

So I will have to try them all to get an appropriate pop off level. So what IS a proper pop off PSI? What do i want it to be at?
 
Follow the carb rebuild thread step by step, it will answer all your questions.

The OSD kit comes with the correct springs.
 
triumph3434 said:
OK, so the pop off test is for non authentic springs. SO I should not even really need the pop off test..
Click to expand...
You should still test pop off. In theory a stock carb with all new correct components will pop off correctly, but you should still check it.

I don’t like that OSD advertises that it is not necessary with their kits. It’s a simple step that shouldn’t be skipped.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

N
1996 xp big after rebuild.
Replies
11
Views
261
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
E
1993 XP Fuel spitting out of PTO carb
Replies
8
Views
173
mikidymac
mikidymac
B
Please Help! 1995 XP bogging at full throttle after carb rebuild - fuel pressure?
Replies
20
Views
474
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
B
95 XP blowing air and gas on PTO carb.
Replies
0
Views
102
Big Dog Paisley
B
S
carb inspection
Replies
2
Views
142
Grim
Grim
Back
Top