1995 twin 787 speedster solenoids location??

[Hades 666]

Can anyone point Me in the right direction? Where are solenoids in 1995 seadoo speedster twin rotax located?
One of my engines wont crank - tried switching fully charger batteries one side works fine other i can only get single click when start botton pressed.
I want to try switching solenoid next but somehow i can't locate it? Is it in a fusebox? I have it opened and i see 3 solenoid looking like parts there - but why 3?Just wanna make sure i get correct part switched.

ThaNX IN ADVANCE FOLKS!

 

[lwayneman1]

The best way to see which solenoid it is, is to (this is old school) take a screw driver and cross the positive and negative on the solenoid. When you get the starter to crank.... well there is your solenoid.

I had the same issue on my 1995 XP and GTX. Found the solenoid, bypassed it with the old screwdriver trick, got cranking from starter, and waa laaaa, found the issue. found the solenoids on ebay for $20 or so. Easy fix.

The XP and GTX were found in a water tight box with the positive wire from the batter going to it. Usually the solenoid is direct wired to the battery, but I do not know much about your boat. Trial and error. this is how I would start though.

Hope this helps.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Don't know where they are but if you follow the positive cable from the battery you will run into it for sure,,,


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.

 

[LouDoo]

Well, I just looked at the parts diagram, the good news is the solenoids are in the grey electrical box. The bad news is there are three solenoids, I'm not sure what the function of the third solenoid is, I don't really need to know but I'm curious why three solenoids?

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...make=seadoojb&a=238&b=9&c=0&d=-ELECTRICAL-BOX

Lou

 

[Hades 666]

Yup looks like they connected in parallel too - no idea - so which one should i switch? Why would there be 2 solenoids for 2 starters?

 

[A B Able Truck]

Looking at the opening - the lower left is your port engine solenoid & the lower right is your starboard engine solenoid (unless modifications were made) - the center solenoid connects your 2 batteries (if applicable) together during starting of either engine (as a booster) - if you touch the two large posts on either the left or right solenoid with a screwdriver you will bypass that solenoid for that engine.

Note; If you only have 1 battery then both battery leads from port & starboard engine solenoids should be connected to the positive post. Your center boost solenoid is essentially bypassed.

 

[Hades 666]

Thanx!

View attachment 24516

Looking at the opening - the lower left is your port engine solenoid & the lower right is your starboard engine solenoid (unless modifications were made) - the center solenoid connects your 2 batteries (if applicable) together during starting of either engine (as a booster) - if you touch the two large posts on either the left or right solenoid with a screwdriver you will bypass that solenoid for that engine.

I did not modify anything so its still 2 batteries - all original design.

That makes sense - thanx a lot and im heading to my garage now for testing.
I will switch left with right one and leave middle one alone - hopefully its a bad solenoid not starter or stucked engine.

 

[A B Able Truck]

If you bypass the solenoid and the starter spins it doesn't necessarily mean that solenoid is bad. Yes you can switch solenoids as a test - but if you have a test light, just check for power to the small + wire of the solenoid when start button is pushed. Note the wire from your good engine solenoid that gets hot as a test.

 

[Hades 666]

Bad news.

I used screwdriver to bypass on the bad side and it still clicks - looks like it wants to spin but it does not ... Now what?

1.How do i get to starter ? I konow its somewhere under that black filter box all the way at the bottom right? That is going to be fun to get to
Will try to get to it somehow and hit it with the hammer a bit see if i get it to rotate.

2.Try if i can spin the motor but here i have no idea how?I read that removing plugs release pressure so i can spin it freely but how am i going to spin when everything is covered -

3. I also heard somewhere that since that engine (one that is far away from battaries) might have bad grounding - however i can't figure out where would that black ground wires be i know there are two to loook for.

 

[LouDoo]

Remove the spark plugs, remove the plastic cover #1, turn the PTO #15. I think I would also look for a bad ground or connections. BTW if your boat is a 95 it has twin 657 motors, if so you also have carrier bearings, your problem could be a seized carrier bearing on the motor that won't turn over.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...38&b=17&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---DRIVESHAFT

Lou

 

[A B Able Truck]

Bad news.

I used screwdriver to bypass on the bad side and it still clicks - looks like it wants to spin but it does not ... Now what?

1.How do i get to starter ? I konow its somewhere under that black filter box all the way at the bottom right? That is going to be fun to get to
Will try to get to it somehow and hit it with the hammer a bit see if i get it to rotate.

2.Try if i can spin the motor but here i have no idea how?I read that removing plugs release pressure so i can spin it freely but how am i going to spin when everything is covered -

3. I also heard somewhere that since that engine (one that is far away from battaries) might have bad grounding - however i can't figure out where would that black ground wires be i know there are two to loook for.

Battery voltage & connections are critical. Remove plugs & spine driveline to verify free engine as Lou stated. Connect jumper cables from good battery directly to starter hot wire & engine as ground. Don't assume because 1 spins you're getting good voltage/battery on the other. Run jumper from 1 battery + to the other - if sparks, 1 battery is weak. Sorry for fat finger text - on road response.

 

[Hades 666]

Gosh sounds like lots of work
I tried both batteries on that side - with one click Batteries were fully charged overnight and are 1 year old and both spin other starter very good.So battery is rulled out.
Solenoids are ok - tested with screwdriver and they both spin other side and click on bad one.

- Will remove starter next as i think i can do that myself and test it with battery if it spins.

If that starter rotates i will have to get to driveline - but here i will need your help a lot as o have no clue how to even get to that part at all.

 

[A B Able Truck]

Gosh sounds like lots of work - will take this engine apart partially today and will update what did i find as soon as i get to critical components here Can i remove starter and conect it directly to battery to check if it spins? Sorry but im a computer tech not engine mechanic - just dont want to damage parts that still work

Taking the engine apart is way more work & may be not needed. Follow red + starter wire to that solenoid - put hot jumper to that & ground jumper to good engine ground. Other side to good battery - 10 minutes.

 

[Hades 666]

Here is the issue i think!

Here is the issue:
Bearing rusted to the driveshaft and causes the seal carrier to spin with the driveshaft.
I did loosen the clamps on seal carrier (rubber boot) and all works fine - engine starts right up but that bearring is stuck

 

[LouDoo]

Yep, that's the carrier bearing, you'll need to rebuild it, if it's locked up it's most likely from neglect, they need grease about every other ride. If it were my boat I would go ahead and do both. I would suggest you download a service manual.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/sea...M---DRIVESHAFT

Lou

 

[Hades 666]

ok sorry for a long delay - but finally i have jet pump removed and drive shaft out - carrier bearing is very bad!! rusted!! i have ordered replacement and yes will do both sides as u guys recommended.
Thanx for all the help.
Have few more questions:

1. As i have jet pump out i will go ahead and change oil in that cone - old one was black - guess thats good - propeller looks mint! but it takes some force to spin that thing - is that normal or should it spin freely?

2. I damaged the ties both at the flywheel (they were weird ones and i had no tool to remove them so i kindof ripped them apart) can i use regular zipties here instead ?

3. Reading seadoo manual they tell us to put some locitate around screws (pump) is that a must if so where and what to get?

THANX!

 

[A B Able Truck]

I'm a jet novice but when I resealed mine;
1- Watch that the thrust washer hasn't slipped and has jammed with the thrust bearing. I had to blindly rotate mine around on one to reposition the washer because I didn't want to disassemble the jet.
2- I used HD zip ties
3- What screws? Did not remove my shoe. Silicone along with a new neoprene washer to seal jets to hull shoe.

 

[Hades 666]

so the propeller should spin just by giving it a slight touch it should rotate? Mine takes some force to move around Wear ring is tight looks like a 1 or less mm spacing)
Also manual stated there should be another oring inside that cone i removed to change oil in jet pump but i did not find one is there one on 95 speedster because that manual is for jetskis/speedsters and confuses me

 

[A B Able Truck]

so the propeller should spin just by giving it a slight touch it should rotate? Mine takes some force to move around Wear ring is tight looks like a 1 or less mm spacing)
Also manual stated there should be another oring inside that cone i removed to change oil in jet pump but i did not find one is there one on 95 speedster because that manual is for jetskis/speedsters and confuses me

On a removed pump - there is thrust freeplay - so when you spin, push away from the ring. It should spin freely. Yes, i had o-rings on my cones.

 

[Hades 666]

Shoot sounds like i need a jet pump rebuild too

 

[Hades 666]

any ideas whats up with that wear ring?
it does not spin freely because its too tights inthere - looks like wear ring on the top of old one?? All covered with super black here and there - no wander this side would not go over 4000 rpm last year. So replacing wear ring should do it right?