Alright, I went to attempt and start it with gas down the carbs, good spark, nothing. It ran for 1 second, then never fired back up after that. Is this turning into too much of a problem for a beginner?
So what your saying is, even though I'm pouring fuel down the carb, and its not starting, its a carb issue? Healthy spark and battery.
Sorry, I thought you had said with gas down the plug holes it ran for a second. If it’s not starting with mixed fuel poured in, then I would look elsewhere first. Compression, spark are good?
Spark good, sadly, my compression is at 90
Will be saving up for a SBT core, and in the meantime, restore the rest of the ski.
You’re not using a tester from harbour freight are you? I believe they are made by Pittsburgh, they are notorious for reading 99 pounds maximumSpark good, sadly, my compression is at 90
You can and should do better than SBT.Spark good, sadly, my compression is at 90
Alright, here’s what happened, I borrowed a Snap On compression gauge from a friend. Mag cylinder 130 pto 128. Thought to myself that it should run, did some more research, found a thread that talked about the engine being flooded with oil after sitting. Pulled the plugs, let all the oil squirt out, and she fires up! Will be doing gas lines and carbs now that I know it runs. Here’s everything else I found out, Im restricted to premix due to the previous owner JB welding the oil inlets on the rotary cover and the pump. Wear ring is in great shape! Hopefully with a carb kit I’ll be out on the lake.
Well that’s good news, must not have been to much oil in there since it rolled over for you to check spark. Just out of curiosity did you check compression before you took the plugs out to get the oil out? I would be interested to see what compression is after it has ran on the water for a ride. I always crank my machines over in the spring with the spark plugs out and plug wires grounded just in case. It’s a good habit
Yes I did, but with a harbor freight compression gauge, 90 psi.
Took the air cleaner assembly, someone has definitely tampered with or rebuilt the carb at some point. Hopefully it was a mikuni kit. Honestly enjoying this process! May have to buy myself a XP or spx to tinker with
Hang on!
Hold up, are you talking about the two fittings that go to the crankcase? Those are alright. I'm talking about the 2 little nipples that get oil from the pump and go into the intake. Rotary Valve Cover Replacement Exchange for Sea-Doo Wouldn't premix get oil to the rotary cavity? While running the oil lines to the crankcase? Sorry for all my questions!
I thought I remembered you saying you were going to change out the gray fuel lines, good idea. I would clean the micro filter in the carb and if it’s running good; I wouldn’t even rebuild the carbs, but if it’s not working as it should in the water then I would go ahead and rebuild the carbs at that point, I’ve heard that simply cleaning them never works and it’s true, I’ve tried multiple times to just clean them and both times I ended up rebuilding them, but as I said if it’s running perfect at all throttle positions I wouldn’t spend the 169.00 for a rebuild kit. If when on the water it doesn’t run perfectly, stop driving immediately and fix it, don’t try and run it, in the hopes that it will clear itself up.Yes I did, but with a harbor freight compression gauge, 90 psi.
Took the air cleaner assembly, someone has definitely tampered with or rebuilt the carb at some point. Hopefully it was a mikuni kit. Honestly enjoying this process! May have to buy myself a XP or spx to tinker with
Thank you guys so much for the tips, I truly appreciate it. Just a couple of things that i want to confirm before I order the oil pump block off plate. When looping the crankcase oil lines, do I install a ball valve on the input line to stop possible crank seal leaking during winter? How do i get the nylon gear out that powers the pump? How do I bleed the crankcase oil lines?
