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1995 Seadoo GTX, doesn't go higher than 30 mph

BMAINAS

New Member
I have a 1995 Seadoo GTX that I got last year. I rode it the first time this summer last month, got a new battery, drained oil and gas. I got the recommended Brp Oil from the dealership for two-stroke engines and put regular 87 gas. Jetski rode well and was hitting 45-47mph.

Fast forward to last week, Jetski died on me while I was in the middle of the lake, had to get towed back. So I got new NGK B8RES sparkplugs for it and also noticed oil on the old sparkplugs ends.Turns out the issue was the sparkplug line ends had corrosion so I clipped them and reinserted in the boot and the engine started perfectly fine.,i thought it had something to do with oil on the sparkplugs but i guess not

Now I have a new issue, the jetski doesn't go more than 35 mph. There is no way of telling what RPMSI am doing,I don't have an RPM gauge but I feel like I should be revving high enough to reach 45-47 mph.

Do you think the Impeller wear ring being worn would lead to this? I was told by a Seadoo mechanic that if my GTX is on the trailer and i look at the jet pump, I shouldn't be able to see daylight through the impeller, I can see the light most definitely on mine lol
 
Sounds like a bad wear ring. Can you attach pictures of it?

The wear ring can have very small gaps from a scratch or two and work fine, but if you can see daylight all the way around, you got issues there.
 
There are the images of the impeller, I think the wear ring was in such bad shape sitting unused for like 3 years that when I put it on the lake, it just deteriorated...In the first pic, all that is just metal, there isn't any plastic wear ring on there
 

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Yes, common for old wear rings to blow out the rubber if the have been sitting for a long time. Your picture shows no rubber left on the wear ring.
 
Hardest part is getting the pump out.
I prefer OEM wear rings.
271000290
WEAR-RING
 
Neoprene seal will not work on your ski, You have the older aluminum pump that is sealed to the hull with black RTV silicone.
 
Getting the wear ring out was easy for me after I put the whole pump in the freezer and used a flat blades screwdriver and mallet to knock it out.

Getting it in is even easier... Leave the pump out and put the wear ring in the freezer for 2 hours. Slid right in.
 
Inside is actually fiberglass on the oem ones. I cut them by hand with a hacksaw blade in two spots and pop them out.
 
Are you sure it doesn't come with the neoprene seal?

on the part catalog I attached it shows its there @mikidymac....Number 34
 

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Inside is actually fiberglass on the oem ones. I cut them by hand with a hacksaw blade in two spots and pop them out.
How do you avoid hacking up the aluminum pump housing when you do this?

Also, you have to remove the impeller first, right? Is there some way to do it with the impeller on?
 
Being careful using the bare hacksaw blade by hand, stop when you think you are close to the aluminum.

Yes, impeller has to be removed.
 
So i found out two others things

1.One of the small oil lines got detached on the MAG cylinder - Oil pump line, I am lucky the engine didn't die,I bought some tylon 3/32" ID to replace them

2. I found out why the spark plugs are foul,I think I was injecting too much oil since the oil lever pump was left open. The oil pump for some reason is missing this piece.I have no idea how to connect the throttle cable to the oil pump,I have attached the images below


I am fortunate that,I have both a too much oil mixture while at the same time,oil lines are breaking.I don't think I have hurt the engine.The only way to tell is by doing a compression test
 

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Definitely need a compression test now. Assuming that checks out, you're okay. Oil pump will go to max if the cable breaks or is disconnected, so yep, that'd explain the smoke.

Since you're getting into it, make sure all grey fuel lines have been replaced. If it had grey fuel lines I'd recommend a carb rebuild with genuine Mikuni parts. See the sticky thread.

If you're have low compression in the one cylinder, I know some people have had success replacing just the cylinder if the rings are still good, but don't know if that's recommended.
 
Grey lines have already been removed long ago, how do i reconnect throttle cable to the oil pump is my question
 
Oil pump for a 787 and 717 are different,i dont have that mount like it says in the manual i posted in the previous post
 

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Wow,so i found an ebay one and it has the mount that i am missing lol, the one in silver.It must have fallen off and is under the engine.Damn it,that means a new oil pump
 

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The adjustment screw is there, it's just that mount that is missing,i dont how to get tension between the cable and pump itself.

I think my oil pump is aftermarket because this doesn't make sense to me how that mount could be missing ,it ought to be the whole part of the assembly and not just a piece that can come off.In my oil pump(second pic) it looks like it was welded or something


--------I am thinking to fix this,since i will have extra slack i just wind the spring lever some more to get the tension needed lol
 

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Just an observation, you got paint missing on the left screw area, wonder if the bracket went there. Do you have the parts manual, does it show that part by itself?
 
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