• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

RESTO 1994 seadoo spx build

Status
Not open for further replies.

yamaracing

Active Member
well as the title states I'm going to perform my first jet ski restoration. fall has sprung up here in Maine and after winterizing both of my other jet skis (Yamaha waverunner 700's) and my boat (well craft excel with mercruiser 3.0/alpha one) I picked this jet ski up very reasonably priced.. non running with a fitted cover and a nice aluminum trailer both registered with some spare parts for a negotiated $300. previous owner said that the last time he took it out it was taking on water and then he hadn't messed with it.. figured i was pretty much buying the trailer at a minimum, very little work after getting it home and it's running great! brought to the boat landing and sure enough it was leaking and after finding the leak I figured why not tear it all down and go through it this winter I know it isn't a very desirable ski or a "wise" investment but it will give me the chance to learn more about pwc and have something to look forward to for spring! will keep this thread updated and will post plenty of pictures! first here's what I'm starting with!
239.jpg
240.jpg
241.jpg
242.jpg
243.jpg
244.jpg
245.jpg
 
seat cover is torn and needing replacement. the hood has a good piece of damage on it and says spi so I'm assuming not original hood and it does have some splice marks in the non working fuel guage wiring. the rear traction pad has seen better days .
250.jpg
251.jpg
252.jpg




does anyone know if I can change hoods to one with the built in mirrors? also with the fuel gauge going to try the fuel tank baffle to hope this fixes the problem.
 
removed the jet pump pump to inspect impeller and wear ring. as I could visually see it with in ski wear ring needs replacing and impeller to me looks like it should be replaced as I'm assuming there is no just grinding down and reworking it? any other opinions if this looks like it should be replaced.


253.jpg
254.jpg
255.jpg
256.jpg
257.jpg
258.jpg
259.jpg




this had to also be taken out as the seal that is between the hull and exhaust elbow was the reason for the leak! after asking around it is an impossible part to find so I'm going to have to silicone it. I also purchased a set of exhaust gaskets so I started to pull the entire exhaust system apart to inspect. (last picture pulled off the internet to visually show what it is I'm talking about)



260.jpg
261.jpg
262.jpg
 
I would not use the impeller without it being reworked. There is more than dings and dents there. The leading edge is bent. That creates both balance and cavitation issue.
 
Either works. Reworking it is slightly cheaper. If it were me, I'd buy a new one and rework the used. This way I always have a spare impeller.
 
ok the stock impeller I believe is 15 & 20.5? does that sound right and I found a solas super chamber I with a 14 & 19. a jet pump rebuild kit with wear ring is around $150 and the impeller is around $200 so not terrible and I would rather have it done right and done once. would the difference in pitch be anything to notice in that change? really don't want to loose top end but some low end would be good too I know these contradict each other. might have helped if I has got to ride the ski before and tested. only experience I have on skis was a short experience with a tiger shark 1000 and my other 2 skis which are Yamaha waverunner 3 person skis which are just heavy and don't do either well but very reliable for the entire family
 
You send them your stock one and they refurbish them. Seadoo was one of the few manufacturers that picked the perfect pitch on the impeller. There isn't really much improvement for a stock ski over the factory impeller.
 
ok great I'm still undecided about just reworking mine and having as a spare and just purchasing either new or reman. this seadoo hobby has had me cruising Craigslist daily for another deal on one and spare parts never hurt! also on a side note does anyone know if I can change hoods as easy as unbolting or if certain years work?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
anyone?? found a hood and am interesting on bidding on it if something like this will work
273.jpg
274.jpg


on another note changed the plugs with fresh br8es plugs. and before starting the tear down I performed another compression test 140 on pto side and 145 on the other cylinder. picked up a new oil filter and in tank fuel filter. I will also be adding in an inline fuel filter and waiting on the fuel selector to come in to finish off the update on the fuel system. went to the local dealer this morning and ordered a flush kit (hose attachment) and a new neoprene jet pump seal. SORRY for the bouncing back and forth on this thread but trying to get everything taken care of and get as much information and opinions as possible! will keep with the updates and pictures.
275.jpg
276.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That is not the oil you want to run. No TCW-3 oil in a seadoo. Only API-TC rated will do.
 
ok il have to grab some of the correct oil! thank you for advising me of it before I refill. after work I will be draining oil and fuel both so good to catch it now! is there a brand that is recommended on the oil?
 
Seadoo XPS mineral is what I would run in that ski but anything API-TC rated is fine.
Also make sure you replace the square o-ring in the fuel filter bowl when you install the new strainer element in your picture. They are known to cause air leaks in the fuel system.
 
ok il stop back at dealer and pick up the correct oil and does the o ring have an item number or name? sorry for all the questions just trying to do everything right the first time
 
Looks like the addiction is setting in! Be careful of that Craigslist thing ... that is why I have almost a dozen SeaDoo good deals now, majority not working but in the queue.

75w90 GL5 synthetic oil in the pump, several manufacturers.

Do not forget to replace the small oil injector lines: tygon, 3/32 commonly found at lawn mower shops as fuel line.

Different opinions, but I prefer to leave the prefilter/water separator in place and add a second filter before the carb (Fram G-2 from auto parts stores for less than $5 is cheap insurance against crap clogging up your jets).

A lot of threads here on injector oil types, basic answer is above.

Good luck and have fun.
 
thanks for the info! unfortunately even at this time of year in maine the good deals haven't set in yet.. non running early 90s gti's with no trailer are still priced pretty high as an example.

the oil I'm going to run the xps mineral oil that another member recommended. the pump oil il be replacing that once my new anti rattle nose cone comes in along with repairing my impeller and new wear ring.

I'm definitely going to keep the in tank filter along with a new in line fuel filter is as you said cheap insurance. I picked up the fuel filters all ready a pack of 3 with the 1/4 ends was fairly cheap. is there a fuel line that is the line that everyone installs the filter?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top