12V too low...

[veedubtek]

Just picked up my 2007 Challenger 180SE on Wednesday. Test drive went great. Worked yesterday morning, but was still able to get about 4 hours in yesterday on the water...again, perfect. Today, kept having an annoying BEEEEEEP on and off all day. No other lights or anything, no messages, for most of the day. Coming back into dock at the end of the day. 3-4 times or so with the beep would be a "12V low" message and battery light. Hit 52 hours today, and really not looking forward to my first problem... Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Use a meter and test the running voltage. Needs to be near 13 to 14 depending in RPMs.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.

 

[veedubtek]

12.3....so I know that ain't good. I also think I know these don't use a conventional alternator? So, I'm kinda clueless on what to look for...

 

[Floridan surfer]

Clean your positive posts at solenoid. Bet their all funky.

 

[veedubtek]

Clean your positive posts at solenoid. Bet their all funky.

Finally got to tear into her again tonight. Pretty sure I found the solenoid you're talking about (looks semi-similar to an old ford starter solenoid), and the connections look good. Pulled em off and scotch-brited em up anyway. Checked all my fuses (and pulled all and treated with stabilant 22-A), and all are fine. (Minus one 3A fuse was blown, no clue what it did, but I did my testing tonight with a 10A fuse installed and no difference. Replacing with a 3A fuse tomorrow).

Tested the stator resistance at the connector @ the rectifier, .6 ohms on 1-2, 2-3, and 3-1. For some reason, even checked again at the stator connector itself. Same results, except .5 on one of them. Tested AC voltage across same terminals, 38v on all 3. A little higher than spec, but I'm thinking that's ok (please correct me if I'm wrong). When testing stator AC voltage, I was testing @ the 3 pin connector at the rectifier. When I test voltage out of the regulator at the same location I'm getting just a hair over 5v. (all testing done at 5300 RPM).

Pretty dam sure at this point I have a bad rectifier/voltage regulator. Am I wrong?

Thanks in advance,

 

[Floridan surfer]

Well at least you know your stators good.

How did you test your rectifier output? I never could get a good, so I replaced it and then my new rectifier yielded the same results as The old one. My problem was corrosion at the aformentioned solenoid.

The two smaller red wires at the solenoid should have 30 amp fuses on them. I heard that the fuse connectors could go bad and not allow the battery to charge. check that too.

 

[veedubtek]

Well at least you know your stators good.

How did you test your rectifier output? I never could get a good, so I replaced it and then my new rectifier yielded the same results as The old one. My problem was corrosion at the aformentioned solenoid.

The two smaller red wires at the solenoid should have 30 amp fuses on them. I heard that the fuse connectors could go bad and not allow the battery to charge. check that too.

Thanks. I didn't checked the rectifier output. I checked the stator @ the rectifier connector, and tested the regulators output. With only 5vDC coming out, I figure that's gotta be it.

Best place to order a regulator? Trying to get one overnighted so I'm back out on the water tomorrow.

 

[xintersecty]

Best place to order a regulator? Trying to get one overnighted so I'm back out on the water tomorrow.

I have ordered parts from this Forum directly, call them and they can tell you if they have it in stock or not. Good folks. Otherwise find your nearest dealer. If your dealership is like mine I can't order boat parts from them. If the part crosses over to a jetboat part then use that number.
http://www.seadoowarehouse.com/

 

[Floridan surfer]

How did you test your rectifier output? I never could get a good, so I replaced it and then my new rectifier yielded the same results as The old one. My problem was corrosion at the aformentioned .

This is how I am attempting to test my rectifier output with the boat running- With my voltmeter hooked up directly to the DC output of the rectifier. I get a 0V reading. Should I expect to see 13 V- 14 V with the voltmeter hooked up in this manner?

 

[veedubtek]

This is how I am attempting to test my rectifier output with the boat running- With my voltmeter hooked up directly to the DC output of the rectifier. I get a 0V reading. Should I expect to see 13 V- 14 V with the voltmeter hooked up in this manner?

Nope! I learned (after the fact) that the regulator puts out next to nothing if it's unloaded (not plugged in, or if the circuit is broken somewhere). Mine ended up being a fuse. A dam fuse. My fuse tested good with a basic continuity test, but it wasn't letting any current pass through. I found this after overnighting a new regulator...

 

[Floridan surfer]

Thanks for responding.

I don't know what's going on with mine. I got 12.3V running so I replaced the rectifier. Installed new rectifier, still 12.3V. Cleaned my terminals at solenoid, got 13.9V. Now, I'm back at 12.3V. Cleaned all grounds, still 12.3V.

All stator tests passed. Don't know where to go from here.

 

[veedubtek]

Thanks for responding.

I don't know what's going on with mine. I got 12.3V running so I replaced the rectifier. Installed new rectifier, still 12.3V. Cleaned my terminals at solenoid, got 13.9V. Now, I'm back at 12.3V. Cleaned all grounds, still 12.3V.

All stator tests passed. Don't know where to go from here.

On mine, I followed the 2 wires out of the rectifier/regulator. They run to the back of the engine, where the ground connects to the engine and continues to the battery. The power loops back to the starter solenoid. Right before the solenoid, there was an inline 30a fuse. Check that guy. That's what got me going again. It looked good, and continuity tested good, but was still bad.

 

[Floridan surfer]

I'll check it today. Weird that it passes continuity but won't charge the battery.

I know mine will pass continuity because I can measure voltage from the battery at the harness for the voltage regulator.

 

[xintersecty]

Nope! I learned (after the fact) that the regulator puts out next to nothing if it's unloaded (not plugged in, or if the circuit is broken somewhere). Mine ended up being a fuse. A dam fuse. My fuse tested good with a basic continuity test, but it wasn't letting any current pass through. I found this after overnighting a new regulator...

Then the regulator works like a DC - DC current driven power supply. The more current needed the more voltage it will supply. So there is no current flowing the batter as indicated by the voltage. Maybe the battery is bad and not taking a charge? Maybe wire your multimeter inline using the 10 amp pole to measure the current to the batter.

 

[Floridan surfer]

Maybe the battery is bad and not taking a charge? Maybe wire your multimeter inline using the 10 amp pole to measure the current to the batter.

I'm not sure how to conduct this test. I have limited skills with a multimeter. Could you elaborate?

I guess there's no harm in taking the battery to an auto parts house to be tested. The battery is only two years old and there's no signs that it is bad. It's usually at about 13.0V at rest.

 

[xintersecty]

to see if there is current flow it means pulling apart the line going to the batter and passing it through the meter.
This is an excellent tutorial on using a volt meter for measuring current:
[video=youtube;7lwZkl0yBqA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lwZkl0yBqA[/video]
Personally I would as you said take to an auto store and measure it there. They have tools to do that.

 

[Floridan surfer]

Thanks for the video- good explanation. Hopefully I won't need it. Battery tested good.

I think I found my problem:

I changed out the 30 amp fuse and then got 14 V at idle. After that I swapped the fuses again to verify that was the issue-I got the usual 12.3V/12.4 V. Then I put the new fuse back in-12.3V again. Huh???

Then, with the boat running, I applied a little torque on the fuse while in the fuse holder and watched the voltmeter. While applying the torque, the volts instantly increased to 13.5 V-14.0 V. When I let the torque off, the volts went back down to 12.3 V. I could make the voltage increase or decrease like a switch. I've read a thread or two about the fuse holders being cheap and problematic. When I had the fuse in my hand, I could feel it getting hot. That was some of the complaints I've read- a melted fuse holder.

 

[xintersecty]

Congratulations. That is major find! yah everything needs to be clean all through the circuit. Getting ready to pull my boat and try and figure out why the intake grate mover thing does not work

 

[Floridan surfer]

Ahh, the dreaded ICS. I gave up on that contraption years ago.

I wrapped sandpaper around a fine tip screwdriver and cleaned the fuse holder contacts. Then I pried them closed to create tension on the fuse. I'll call it good...for now.

 

[veedubtek]

Then the regulator works like a DC - DC current driven power supply. The more current needed the more voltage it will supply. So there is no current flowing the batter as indicated by the voltage. Maybe the battery is bad and not taking a charge? Maybe wire your multimeter inline using the 10 amp pole to measure the current to the batter.

Actually, I fixed mine already, it was the fuse. A voltage drop test with a DMM will be my first weapon of choice next time, I have no idea why I didn't start with that this time.