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05 rxt lack of power
- Thread starter LEXUSRY
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A supercharger rebuild manual is a must have, to do this job. If this ski has run with the ceramic washers and never used Synthetic oil, then a change out may all you need to do. If synthetic oil was used, the motor might have to come apart to inspect for blockage in your oiling ports.
But, if your sure it's just in need of changing slip washers, it's not hard. A good garage mechanic should have the tools to do the job. But, at a 44,000 rpm turbine wind, I wouldn't just try it without a manual.
But, if your sure it's just in need of changing slip washers, it's not hard. A good garage mechanic should have the tools to do the job. But, at a 44,000 rpm turbine wind, I wouldn't just try it without a manual.
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Lexusry,
This depends on if the original ceramic washers are intact or have come apart and fallen into the motor. If the latter, you will have to FIND all the pieces of those washers (which could be as simple as pulling the oil pumps and finding the pieces in the oil pump screens still, or could involve pulling the entire engine out of the hull and opening it up to look inside for the pieces... bottom line, you do NOT want those pieces floating around in there!).
You need to pull your SC from the engine and see if the cermic washers are still there in their entirety or not. There are many posts on here in the past 12 months on how to go about pulling the SC from your RXT (basically involves unstrapping the waterbox, releasing the exhaust clamp and then sliding the waterbox back 3 or 4 inches to get enough space to pull the SC out of the engine... 3 bolts hold the SC onto the engine, 1 is particularly difficult to reach and will take longer than the other 2 to remove).
However, if you just take the intake hose off the SC and reach in with your fingers (engine NOT running!) and try to spin the air impeller by fingertips... if it spins easily, your ceramic washers have probably broken apart and are down inside the engine somewhere! If the air impeller doesn't spin freely, then they're probably still on the SC shaft.
To replace the washers, if they're still on the shaft, you will need a SC tool set (sold at various PWC online stores and on Ebay... go to Ebay and search on "Seadoo Supercharger Tool" and you should find listings and pics of the tools you need). Steel washer kits w/tools are available as well, and include instruction sheet!
Primarily the SC mounting/holding plate and the shaft holder tool are needed. A torque wrench is required, DO NOT GUESS at how tight the end nut needs to be! Red loctite, and a hand-held propane torch (to heat up the end nut so that the loctite inside it's threads will release so you can remove it). Once you have the SC out of the engine, it takes about 30 minutes or so to replace the washers. The washers are NOT identical, so pay close attention to the order you remove the spring washers and SC ceramic washers and everything... I reverse stacked all the parts as I removed them from mine to keep the order correct. Do the actual change of washers (once the nut has been removed) on a white towel so you don't loose anything, and there are little bitty roller bearings inside the gear that may fall off when you remove it (don't loose any of them, or have a replacement set of the roller bearings on hand to go back with).
If your ceramic washers are intact and still on the SC shaft, an afternoon is all it should take to replace them with the metal washers. Otherwise though..... :-(
- Michael
This depends on if the original ceramic washers are intact or have come apart and fallen into the motor. If the latter, you will have to FIND all the pieces of those washers (which could be as simple as pulling the oil pumps and finding the pieces in the oil pump screens still, or could involve pulling the entire engine out of the hull and opening it up to look inside for the pieces... bottom line, you do NOT want those pieces floating around in there!).
You need to pull your SC from the engine and see if the cermic washers are still there in their entirety or not. There are many posts on here in the past 12 months on how to go about pulling the SC from your RXT (basically involves unstrapping the waterbox, releasing the exhaust clamp and then sliding the waterbox back 3 or 4 inches to get enough space to pull the SC out of the engine... 3 bolts hold the SC onto the engine, 1 is particularly difficult to reach and will take longer than the other 2 to remove).
However, if you just take the intake hose off the SC and reach in with your fingers (engine NOT running!) and try to spin the air impeller by fingertips... if it spins easily, your ceramic washers have probably broken apart and are down inside the engine somewhere! If the air impeller doesn't spin freely, then they're probably still on the SC shaft.
To replace the washers, if they're still on the shaft, you will need a SC tool set (sold at various PWC online stores and on Ebay... go to Ebay and search on "Seadoo Supercharger Tool" and you should find listings and pics of the tools you need). Steel washer kits w/tools are available as well, and include instruction sheet!
Primarily the SC mounting/holding plate and the shaft holder tool are needed. A torque wrench is required, DO NOT GUESS at how tight the end nut needs to be! Red loctite, and a hand-held propane torch (to heat up the end nut so that the loctite inside it's threads will release so you can remove it). Once you have the SC out of the engine, it takes about 30 minutes or so to replace the washers. The washers are NOT identical, so pay close attention to the order you remove the spring washers and SC ceramic washers and everything... I reverse stacked all the parts as I removed them from mine to keep the order correct. Do the actual change of washers (once the nut has been removed) on a white towel so you don't loose anything, and there are little bitty roller bearings inside the gear that may fall off when you remove it (don't loose any of them, or have a replacement set of the roller bearings on hand to go back with).
If your ceramic washers are intact and still on the SC shaft, an afternoon is all it should take to replace them with the metal washers. Otherwise though..... :-(
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Bearings and shaft still wear and will wear out.... you replace the Cermic washers with steel ones to prevent cermic washer pieces from falling down into the engine. However, the SC still needs to be completely rebuilt at 100 hour intervals. Changing the washers does not change the overall service interval on the SC. The SC is a wear item.
Regards!
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Oooh I don't like the sound of that question.... :-(
The answer is maybe... pull the oil pumps (there is 1 on either end of the engine) and check their screens 1st, see if the washer pieces are there. If you can reassemble the 2 ceramic washers from the pieces you may find in the oil pumps, then you don't need to pull the engine. BUT, if you can't find enough washer pieces in the oil pump screens to re-assemble both ceramic washers (assuming both have come off the SC shaft and fallen into the engine) then you will need to pull the engine out of the hull and take the bottom half off to search for those washer pieces! I would not feel comfortable running the engine again until all the ceramic washer pieces have been located.
If you don't find all the pieces in the oil pump screens initially, then I might try putting the oil pumps back onto the engine and changing the oil and oil filter a few times (with very short engine runs between changes, just to stir things up) and then check the oil pump screens again in the hope that the final missing pieces will turn up BEFORE pulling the engine apart.
Finally if you're in doubt about the state of the ceramic SC washers, then take an afternoon and pull the SC out of the engine and check to see if the washers are still on the shaft or not. They are located on either side of the drive gear that turns the SC. Don't try to run the engine without re-installing the SC 1st!
Regards!
- Michael
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Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
LOL! I agree with your assessment on how the SC is mounted. ;-)
Unless you just have more money than you know what to do with, or your existing SC has like EXPLODED to pieces, I'd just change the ceramic washers out and put it back into the engine and go ride. I don't believe you will see any performance improvement with a new "improved" SC from brp (and the newest SC's use a different oiling system, which I've read requires you to make modifications to your older engine in order to use the latest SC design).
How much run time is on your SC? They should be completely rebuilt every 100 hrs, new shaft new bearings new air impellor etc. (it's all available in kit form). Your washers are intact and on the shaft still I presume?
ps. I've read that the SC is much easier to remove and re-install with a gear-wrench slightly modified by grinding the end of the wrench down thinner (to better fit on that 1 SOB bolt!). It's been discussed not long ago in this forum.
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Oil washes over the SC shaft gear, I wouldn't expect to find any debris on it as a result. Anything that comes apart on the SC will likely get washed down and into the engine block.
IDK about the oil, I just use the BRP 4TEC oil purchased from the dealership. I believe I read that the only issues with synthetic oil were those cermic SC washers, that they were adversely affected by synth oil. Since you're going back with steel washers that is no longer an issue I guess. See this thread for more info: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?12057-215hp-4tec-oil-in-08-(confused!)
- Michael
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Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
There are 2 ways: one is to tow it to a dealership and pay them to reset the maintenance light with their computer system, the other involves buying a portable computer interface that can be used to reset the system. It's a little pricey even for the Home version (all you or I would need... $399): http://www.candoopro.com/index.php
So in short, the PWC itself does not include any way to reset the maintenance light or reset engine codes... you'll have to spend some money at least. I think I'd call and ask your local stealership what they'd charge to just do the computer resets you need and go from there. Even if it's $100 to do it, it's not something you should need done very often.
Regards!
- Michael
So in short, the PWC itself does not include any way to reset the maintenance light or reset engine codes... you'll have to spend some money at least. I think I'd call and ask your local stealership what they'd charge to just do the computer resets you need and go from there. Even if it's $100 to do it, it's not something you should need done very often.
Regards!
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
The driveshaft should be fine, no lube required (the carbon ring provides it's own lube). Why do you need to inspect the oil pumps? What was the state of the washers on the SC?
"Data data data! You can't expect me to make lemonade without lemons!" ;-)
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Ok.... then now isn't the time to be worrying about pulling the oil pumps. Wait till you have the tool to get to those washers and see what shape they're in. The oil pumps IMO aren't particularly that easy to pull and re-install, so if you don't have to pull them I wouldn't! Hopefully you're cermic washers are still intact.
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
All the washers are metal? The ceramic washers feel like they're lite as plastic when you hold them in your hand. What fins are you referring to? To just change the slip washers out you shouldn't be messing with any fins. I'm a little confused now... :-\
ps. The spring washers (there are 3 of them I think) have to be put back in in the same orientation they came out... keep things in the correct order, it's important!
- Michael
ps. The spring washers (there are 3 of them I think) have to be put back in in the same orientation they came out... keep things in the correct order, it's important!
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Interesting... I didn't remove the air impeller from mine when I changed my ceramic washers out. Did yours have ceramic or steel slip washers (the 2 washers that were against the drive gear)? I presume you're going to put it back together with new metal slip washers now... or are you going to go for a full rebuild?
If your slip washers are already steel, or are ceramic but fully intact, then there's no reason to pull the oil pumps to look for pieces. You dodged a bullet!
- Michael
If your slip washers are already steel, or are ceramic but fully intact, then there's no reason to pull the oil pumps to look for pieces. You dodged a bullet!
- Michael
Michael211_2000
Well-Known Member
Slip washers (originally ceramic on most pre-08 model SeaDoo's at least) are on EITHER SIDE of the drive gear.
- Michael
- Michael
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