So I'm looking at possibly buying a 02 GTX ...the guy has Saud it runs great but won't go above 45mph. Only has one key, (I thought maybe he has the learner key but no idea how to tell the difference in keys)...have heard possible wear ring. I'm supposed to go look at it Saturday and would like to go with some knowledge of what to look for and what may be causing the speed issue. Thanks for any help, info or advice.
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02 gtx with speed issue
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lloyd54123
Member
Wear rings need to be replaced when the clearance is 1mm. Will he let you ride it?
If you do get the chance to test drive them. When you floor the Accelerator, if it acts like the tires are spinning on a car, then the wearing needs replaced.
MacAddict
Active Member
45mph sounds like learner key... need to see how many rpms it's turning... if regular key, should turn 6800 rpms and do about 60gps. The problem could also be exhaust RAVE valves gummed up. Easy to take Allen bolts out and pull out to check... usually solid black, gummed up with lots of carbon buildup. But definitely check impeller and wear ring..... if it feels like a slipping clutch in the water, that's cavitation and definitely wear ring or impeller....
If the ski you are looking at is the 02 GTX DI then it did come with a learning key and will limit speed to about 35 mph.
The learning key float will be either green or white and have either, "L.K." or "learning key" on the float if you can't take it out for a test ride.
The learning key float will be either green or white and have either, "L.K." or "learning key" on the float if you can't take it out for a test ride.
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Ok...so I know it was a no-no, but we bought the gtx without riding it and non running. The seller got it out if storage the night before we were to go look at it. It wouldn't start, but my fiance still wanted to go look. The seller wanted to postpone it till he had it running (don't think he was scamming as he wanted it running before we looked) he claimed he went and made sure the fuel was reaching the fuel bar and that there was spark...I can verify fuel to the fuel bar as I took it off last night to clean it and spray cleaner on the injectors. It cranks and wants to start but won't. So now where should I start my search? Was going to try a different battery and clean the RAVE valves possibly tonight.
Fuel pump pressure test. Critical on DI skis.
You are correct. And you need a high pressure gauge as at idle it needs to be 107 PSI.
garrettb
Active Member
How much did you pay for it? Take it from me, these get expensive quick. I bought one non-running for $800 with a trailer. A new wiring harness got it running (injectors weren't being energized), but by the time I was able to actually ride it, I needed to pull the engine to change the CB lube, replace the wear ring and impeller, re-align the engine, replace the rectifier, and replace the fuel pump. A weak pump will probably allow it to start on land. If you do need a pump, look for an OEM one. That's what I replaced the aftermarket one in mine with, and it's great.
We got 2 skis and trailer, paid a little over 4k for everything, the Honda runs great with 60hours
I'm gonna run a compression check and the guy said it will fire using starter fluid, so will do that to verify it will run, then assuming the compression checks out, I'll take it somewhere and have the fuel pressure checked.
I'm gonna run a compression check and the guy said it will fire using starter fluid, so will do that to verify it will run, then assuming the compression checks out, I'll take it somewhere and have the fuel pressure checked.
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ski-d00
Well-Known Member
I rebuild a lot of DIs and non-running is a huge gamble but I buy them that way all the time but expect to have to rebuild it so I price it accordingly.
Start with the basics. The fuel pump is not the starting place. Check compression first. DIs with low compression will hard start but run and sound pretty good once running but not reach top speed, sound familiar? Fuel pumps tend to work or not work on the DIs. Faulty rectifiers are also very common failure and can cause weird things including hard starts and poor running.
Start with the basics. The fuel pump is not the starting place. Check compression first. DIs with low compression will hard start but run and sound pretty good once running but not reach top speed, sound familiar? Fuel pumps tend to work or not work on the DIs. Faulty rectifiers are also very common failure and can cause weird things including hard starts and poor running.
Well I grabbed a compression tester from O'Reilly and check both cylinders (didn't unplug injectors nor hold throttle wide open, didn't know till afterwards that I was supposed to hold the throttle open) got a reading of 110-115 on each. Went and grabbed a fresh battery cause I noticed the one installed was dying, fresh battery checking compression gave me about 118 on each. Put the plugs back in with fresh battery and tried to start it and got nada. So I'm looking at a top end rebuild? How involved is that?
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