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'00 Challenger 1800 Bilge Pump Issue

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My bilge pump does not work automatically and I would appreciate help here!. The pump is a Rule which I suspect is a replacement for the original. The pump works fine in manual mode but does not work automatically when the bilge fills with water (I had a leaky seal on one of the exhaust outlets, now repaired). The float switch is a "See Water Smart Pump Switch" model 079701 which I think is not made anymore. Please see the pictures. This has 3 wires: Black, brown and red. All the float switches I see online are 2-wire. Can anyone recommend what to buy and how to wire it? I want to splice in the See Water 3- wire connector. Thank you all for your help!
 

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It's really up to you. You can buy any kind of water switch you want. From the boat... there are 3 wires. Ground, switch, and hot. Once you find a switch you want... we can tell you how to wire it.
 
Hi Dr Honda and Others - I can't find a float switch that has glowing reviews. All of them have had problems people reported on Amazon. I chose the Rule 35A Rule-A-Matic Bilge Pump Float Switch, Mercury Free,White. Here is the link on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8DA3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would be very grateful if you could tell me how to wire this. As I said, I would like to splice in the existing wire adapter from the old switch so that I don't have to make any other wiring changes I've attached a pic of the wiring diagram on the old "See Water" switch. Also, can you tell me how to mount this switch? I'm not comfortable screwing it down to the bottom of the boat.. can I glue it down?
Again, thank you so much for your help. It's people like you who make me happy to pay for premium membership!
Bradley
 

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You can glue it if you want... but you need to make sure the hull is VERY clean. AND... that you don't block whatever is doing the sensing. I would clean everything with soap and water... then dry it... THEN sand the spot smooth. That will assure you are past any oil absorption.

From that diagram... I would hook it up exactly as it shows. Black from the boat would go to black. now... depending on your boat... the main power will either be red... or Brown with a red trace. That goes to the red in the diagram. The brown wire from the boat is your switched power. I would tap that wire into the brown wire on the diagram between the switch and the pump. That will allow you to bypass the switch, and manually turn on the pump.
 
I just realized that you are getting a switch with only 2 wires. But it's basically the same.

1) Black to the Black on the pump.
2) Red the either wire on the float switch.
3) The other wire from the float switch will go to the red on the pump along with the Brown wire from the boat.
 
just curious///but did you try putting the "BAD" float switch in a Clean bucket of water? The smart witch will not work if it detects oil of Bleach or anything other than Water in the bilge... you may just need to clean the bilge
 
Dr Honda - Thank you for the wiring and installation information. I will receive the switch tomorrow and contact you again if I have any issues.

cbjustDOOit - Thanks for the suggestion. My bilge is pretty funky, primarily because it is so inaccessible. But I will try to clean it up. I'll try your water bucket idea tomorrow before I install the new switch.
 
cbjustDOOit - Thanks for the suggestion. My bilge is pretty funky, primarily because it is so inaccessible. But I will try to clean it up. I'll try your water bucket idea tomorrow before I install the new switch.

Get some "Super Clean" in the big purple jug. Not "Purple power" or "Simple Green".... they both SUCK !!!!!!!!!!!! Pull the bilge plugs, and tip the trailer nose high. Spray EVERYTHING with Super Clean.... give it 5 or so minutes... hose out. Done and clean. (Repeat if you missed something)

Here's a couple picks from when I had my shop open. (replacing engines, and charged an extra $100 to clean when it was bad) IMG_1222.JPGIMG_1227.JPG
 
Hello Dr Honda –

I purchased the Rule model 35A float switch. It has only 2 grey wires, I guess because this is simply an on/off mechanical switch. Here is information about this switch: https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/br...-a-matic-float-switch-technical-datasheet.pdf
I couldn’t understand your instructions above for wiring a 2 wire switch. I tried a few things but couldn’t get it to work. Ideally, I would like to detach the coupling from the old electronic switch, which has 3 wires and splice it into the new switch with 2 wires, but I don’t know where to put the 2 wires out of the 3 in the coupling. If I can’t use the coupling I’ll splice the new switch wires wherever I have to, but I just don’t know where!

Here is the current wiring:

Old switch has black, brown and red wires that connect via a coupling to the boat which has black, brown and brown/red stripe wires. That wiring harness has 2 wires going to the pump: black and brown. My switch on the dash is simply on/off and does work the pump.

Now I’m also wondering if I have a blown fuse. I checked them in the fuse block and all look ok. I don’t know where to find an inline fuse… perhaps behind the battery shutoff?

Thank you again for your help. And, I will clean up the bilge per your instructions!

To cbjustDOOit: I tried the old switch in water but still didn't work, hence my speculation that a fuse might be the issue. Thank you.


Brad
 

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Get some "Super Clean" in the big purple jug. Not "Purple power" or "Simple Green".... they both SUCK !!!!!!!!!!!! Pull the bilge plugs, and tip the trailer nose high. Spray EVERYTHING with Super Clean.... give it 5 or so minutes... hose out. Done and clean. (Repeat if you missed something)

Here's a couple picks from when I had my shop open. (replacing engines, and charged an extra $100 to clean when it was bad) View attachment 50880View attachment 50881
Wish I had this post a while back... that looks awesome... DR. Honda...are those stock mufflers??? I have never seen SILVER ones. have owned 3 and they are all Black ...
 
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