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Like Mraw mentioned, try disconnecting the red wire at the rectifier. I’ve found that the voltage test on the trailer doesn’t always tell the whole story with rectifier issues, and this does sound like a likely culprit here...

OSD is a good option as well, and I’ve used quite a few of his kits over the years. He would get you the correct parts as well. Westside Powersports is a site sponsor here, so I was trying to give them the first shoutout, but either supplier is top notch.

You need to pull the carbs and open up the fuel pump side of the mag carb (if we’re talking about a dual carb setup.) Take a look at the check valves, and look to see if there is an obvious spot where the clear plastic diaphragm is leaking around the edges. I’ve seen multiple instances of the...

The Mikuni kits do not come with the needles or seats, so you have to order them separately. You can call Westside Powersports and have Nick or Jess get you the correct kits and needles. That way you’ll definitely get the correct parts.

I think you’ve got a typo in that post. If it’s not revving until you disconnect the rectifier, then you’ve either got a bad one, which does happen even right out of the box, or you’ve got a wiring/stator problem...

Yes, it’s almost certainly the inner crank seal. Sometimes they will leak like that after sitting for a long period and will then “plump back up” once you get it running and heat cycle the motor a few times, but I’d be concerned that it’s filling so quickly. I’d probably try to get it to fire up...

It’s on the pto where the driveshaft meets the engine. You should have a plastic cover with wingnuts to remove before you can access the zerk fitting.

A true 95XP800 should be all yellow on top, and then yellow on the front half, and pink on the back half of the bottom hull.

I think he’s referring to the all yellow hull with the black rub rail and grab handle. I do love the look of the 99SPX though, so I’d probably jump on that offer as well...

That looks correct to me. Once you have it installed, you’re going to open the bleed screw until the supply line is filled and there is no air. Then you close the bleed screw and start the engine. While it’s idling, reach in and turn the pump lever to the WOT position and watch oil fill the two...

The 657X was the transition engine. It’s a great motor, but it was only in production for two years. With that said, I think a good running 657X is actually just a bit quicker on the top end than the same ski with a 717. The 717 is more reliable though, and has a bit more bottom end than the 657X.

So I currently have both of those skis, and the difference is pretty significant. The 96XP is much quicker accelerating than the 95, and has much better throttle response due to the smaller pump volume than the 95. The downside is it is a bit more maintenance, and that same pump volume issue...

The wrist pin is a possibility, but it sure sounds like my 787 did last summer when I lost the balance shaft bearing. I’d look for metal in the hull and stick a camera back there before I pulled the head to check piston play...

I use Mystik JT-4 Full synthetic in my 787 ski. I order it by the 4gal case, and I think I paid $28/gal last time I placed an order back in April... I can also say that I’ve tested that one with XPS and it did not gel after being mixed and sitting in a sealed glass jar for 30 days. It’s an...

I get the piece of mind argument, but the reality is if you have a catastrophic failure, like a hull insert is torn completely apart, there’s not a pump on the planet that’s going to save you. I’ve got a 500gph manual pump on my 95XP, and I’ve never even switched it on while riding, since the...

It’s a bit small, but really you shouldn’t need a bulge pump at all if your bailers are working properly...

My initial thought is that you’ve lost a balance shaft bearing. Try to get a camera down behind the engine and look for a hole or cracks in the case...

Stick with stock settings and you’ll be fine. At 6100, you’re still safe, but you’re going to see some reduction in performance. In those really high elevations, I actually recommend dropping your fuel octane before making jetting changes. In Utah, you should have 85 available, so I’d use that...

You’re good with stock jetting up over 5000’. At 3k feet, you should be just about spot on with factory settings.

I know Miki is a proponent of never mixing oils, and I’d agree that it’s the safe answer. With that said, I’ve mixed oil several times in my personal skis after testing the oils fairly extensively. I’ve never used the Amsoil, so I can’t speak to whether those particular ones cause gelling or not...