Search results

No worries at all! I was just a little confused about which ski we were talking about! Kawasaki actually did make an SX model, so I figured you might have had one of those... I’m not real sure what ski the 97 could be if it’s yellow with a smaller engine than the gsx. Maybe a GTI with the 720...

Go ahead and pull that impeller out and inspect the shaft and bearings. Somethings not right in that thing...

So you had the cylinders bored, installed new pistons and rings, and still have low compression? Are you using a Harbor Freight gauge by any chance? They have been selling defective gauges for a few years now, and they all read super low... Just a possibility to throw out there.

If you search for “Driveline Repair Kit,” you’ll find it on the OSD site. As for the driveshaft, you may be able to reuse it if you can get it out in one piece. I’d soak the bearing in penetrating oil for a bit and tap it with a hammer a few times to see if it will break free. If it does, just...

The hose and bearing assembly should be stationary. The one that is spinning has the carrier bearing seized on the shaft and it has torn the thru hull fitting out. OSD has a repair kit that includes a new bearing and they hull insert. You may need a replacement driveshaft as well depending on...

It definitely looks like it’s not all the way in there. Is there any play in it? Can you move it back and forth?

I’m not sure about the line. Unfortunately I don’t have an SP to look at... I think it’s a battery vent line though, which would make sense to be unhooked since most new batteries don’t use the vent anymore...

I guess either way, the WR011 is for the newer 4-tec machines and the WR001 is for the correct one for the older two stroke machines. It also works for the Kawi if that’s what you meant by SX...

I’m not sure what the SX is? Are you talking about a GS from Sea Doo, or an SPX? Or is it a Kawasaki stand up?

Never believe the previous owner when it comes to carb work... You need to go through the whole fuel system on any ski that’s new to you, so that you know exactly hats been done to it. Replace any grey fuel lines with black automotive line, replace the fuel selector and O-ring on the water...

Post a picture of your impeller. You normally just need a wear ring, but sometimes the prop will get dinged up and need some refurb. As for the top end performance, it definitely sounds like a carb problem. Sounds like it’s time for a rebuild and new fuel selector...

Your valves really didn’t look too bad. Normally they’ve got jobs of carbon build up on them, some so bad that they’re difficult to physically pull out of the slots! Don’t overthink things too much! If you don’t get the bellows on tight, you’ll see that the ski feels soft up top or that it has...

Well to update an old thread, I finally got around to playing with the grate on my 95XP with the 717. I pulled the stock grate off and replaced it with a Solas SD-IG-B, and it did make quite a noticeable difference! I’m sure it scrubbed 1-2mph off of the top end, but the pump is loading much...

You definitely need new wear rings, but the driveshaft protectors are causing the bulk of your problem. It’s obstructing flow to that starboard impeller, and you’re not going to be going anywhere until that’s removed. It looks like the protector has part of it missing on the port side as well...

You’re better off leaving it alone as long as it’s within the specified range. Pop off testing is just a verification. The spring tension is what really matters while the carb is operating, and you’re only checking pop off to confirm that the tension is within range and noting is sticking or...

You’re going to have to pull the carbs and check for a blockage or bad check valve then. And it shouldn’t have a primer. That’s been added by someone. If it were me, I’d remove it. I don’t like straying from factory on anything fuel related...

Have you back flushed it yet? You could have a blockage as well...

I’m a little confused here. What ball are you taking about? And what do you mean by no leak down? I’m assuming someone has installed a ball primer on the fuel lines...

I wouldn’t go crazy over top speed numbers on this thing. There are a lot of variables, so if you’re getting into the high 50’s after the pump refurb, don’t be disappointed. That’s a strong running ski, as it takes glass water and perfect conditions to reach published top speeds...

Well this one is pretty easy to diagnose then! You need to pick up about 20ft of 1/4” black automotive fuel line and replace each line one by one so that you get the routing exactly the same. Then you need to replace your fuel selector and the o-ring on the water separator. Lastly, you need to...