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c'mon over to Minnesota, the Mississippi is still close to flood stage -- plenty of water here ;-)

How long does it run before it stalls?

Thanks @Tiggo and @mikidymac Maybe I will repay your patient kindness by writing up a 'Rotax 2-Stroke Lubrication for Dummies' post. I had assumed that the rotary valve >>gear<< and the rotary valve itself were both lubricated by oil 'injected into the intake manifold'. I was not aware of...

Actually...a common misconception about galvanic corrosion is that it only happens in salt water. Even fresh water has dissolved minerals that cause it to conduct electricity and accelerate galvanic corrosion, and most river water is especially conducive to galvanic corrosion. Meanwhile...

So, the engineers what designed these machines are idiots? What does that say about them yokels what buys these machines? ;-)

While scouring the web looking for compression specs and test procedures actually published by Bombadier or Rotax, the interesting thing is that the ONLY place I can find these is in the maintainence manuals for the 2-stroke Rotax AIRCRAFT engines. This might be because the FAA forces aircraft...

Thanks AK, I didn't know you'd been a mechanic for Sea Doo. In my case, I ultimately learned that the problem getting the impeller off was corrosion, which I think is due to not sealing the threads, and the boat spending weeks (or months) at a time sitting in the water. The corrosion started...

Yes, that's an Attwood fuel tank vent, and it looks like this with the cap on.

That's not a drain, that is your fuel tank vent line, and it is missing the splash cap that is supposed to screw on to the threads you see. It is an extremely common part used on all kinds of boats. It is made by Attwood and you probably have to buy the whole thing (for about $10) just to get...

You answered 'No', but then I think you agreed with my assessment -- one should >>not<< bypass oil injection in a Rotax 2-stroke. Is that correct?

Sure enough, when I RTFM, I find that Sea Doo recommends 300 degrees F!

If the person who installed that impeller was following the Factory Service Manual, you are going to need a propane torch...

Well, having designed some systems like these and worked with other engineers responsible for developing the service proceedures, I find it hard to just ignore the Factory Service Manuals...which call for Loctite. There is enough vibration on that shaft to cause problems and grease does nothing...

Whoops, forgot the attachment...

I am just finishing up my first impeller and wear ring replacement. I had the same problem, could NOT get the impeller shaft out of the impeller. Things I learned along the way... Sea-Doo factory shop manual specifies Loctite "Red 271" on the impeller shaft threads -- 271 is the toughest...

Wow!!!! Amazing work! If I ship mine to you in Russia, will you do mine next? How much will you charge me? ;-)

Hi, I'm a 50-year powerboat veteran and generally considered competent with inboard/outboard/diesel/gas/2-strokes/4-strokes etc., but I have never seen a Rotax before. Like many 2-stroke Rotax noobs, I asked myself the question "why should I rely on a possibly failure prone injection pump...

Hmmm...tough to imagine a fuel related issue that only causes problems when the engine is warm, and disappears completely when the engine is cold. I do know that ethanol mixed into fuel can increase the possibility of vapor-lock, but I'm only using no-ethanol marine gas. Still, vapor-lock is...

I'm in a similar situation, except that the previous owner had no clue what brands he'd been pouring into the tank of my new-to-me 1996 Sportster. "I looked for API TC, but no one sells it, everybody told me TCW-3 would be fine". He's mostly right. Go to any marina fuel dock and all you will...

I just bought a 1996 Speedster (jet boat w/717 motor) that is doing exactly the same thing. Starts instantly when cold, starts hard or very hard when warm. The problem seems to be worse if there is more than 5 minutes between killing and trying to restart. What I have found is that if I...