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Bad plugs or coils or the connections to them.

Cavitation can also come from worn impeller and or wear ring and too much clearance between the two.

Make sure you don't nick or cut the shaft seal on the impeller or you will have to take it all apart to change it, after the rope is out run it for a while like an half hour or so and check under it again to be sure nothing has gone wrong under there.

I would think or try replacing the main relay inside the fusebox , they seem to fail now and then.

Easier on the machine for sure

Carbon seals are designed to run a short time without damage, some guys say a slight amount of spray is normal, mine has none at all , you might want to check for damage or see if the clamp is tight

Battery vent tube

You can spend pretty much tons of money on mods if that is your gig, and possibly it is faster. Certainly much lighter and with pump and engine upgrades and no speed limit it can go much faster than any factory machine currently out there. You couldn't beat new machines with a couple hundred...

The fact that the intercooler was leaking probably caused excessive blow by in the cylinders making the oil return situation worse , could be oil separator not working properly.

I use the brand OEM Orange 1 Coolant, researched it and it's the only one I found to be the replacement for BRP brand coolant. Do not use Dexcool or its equals, it is not know what effect it would have on the head gasket or the seals and you don't have to flush the cooling system.

Most Trailer tires are around 50 to 60psi , lug nut torque is 90lb/ft.

When you put the supercharger in it is important you use the same oil you use in the engine to oil the bearings before you install, use lots.

Push the hose in as far as it will go in the dipstick tube, put a mark on it , pull it out and see if it's going in about 2 inches more than the length of the dipstick by holding the dipstick next to it, if not then rotate the tube a little when you hit an obstacle until it goes all the way to...

From what I found and seen is when you put a Solas on a stock engine you usually lose performance, and they are brittle, any sand , rocks, even weeds cause easy failures. I would stick with stock for sure.

Flywheel bolts for the 4 Tec engines are rotation to yield bolts, you would be taking a huge gamble to find and use bolts that would torque and fit properly. I have never seen bolts from any of my suppliers that gave a torque spec other than the one you use from SAE standards let alone know how...

Nothing I can think of, I bought a factory tool and that part was not in it.

There is supposed to be space between the shaft and the seal, the business part is the face of the seal and the stainless steel support ring, if the surfaces are scarred or worn it will leak. If they are smooth and even then just put it back together.

The one on the left is an OEM , the right one is an aftermarket probably for a different engine, hard to rebuild it until you know which engine it was for or who supplied it.

There can be a slight misalignment, my manual says there can be some resistance to the tool. You could also see if there are thinner shims to help you get closer to the set point or shim on one side only to raise or lower the engine. Don't forget to do the length measurement.