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Getting engine ready to install pto ?

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97explorer717

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Should have addressed the pto earlier. Any advice on a safe way to install at this point? Started reading about people having them come loose and the manual says to apply anti seize. Read about boiling it and the rope trick. I can't open the head asIMAG4316.jpgIMAG4317.jpg I didn't build it. Guess I should have installed hours ago. I do have the impeller tool.IMAG4315.jpg
 
Never heard the boiling trick.


I use the rope trick all the time. Bring the PTO to TDC. Then back it off so that when your tightening it it will come back to TDC. Don't back it off it too much so that you expose the ports in the cylinder. Stuff as much in as you can, then tighten the PTO. Do this on the PTO cylinder.
 
Never heard the boiling trick.


I use the rope trick all the time. Bring the PTO to TDC. Then back it off so that when your tightening it it will come back to TDC. Don't back it off it too much so that you expose the ports in the cylinder. Stuff as much in as you can, then tighten the PTO. Do this on the PTO cylinder.
Thanks! That's what I'm going to do. Believe I'll get it installed and then do that. Seems like it would be easier to have the engine stable.
As far as the boiling thing goes. Just seen it on some random searches on Google. I guess if you're having a really hard time with your PTO coming loose you can use that method. They literally say to boil the PTO for 5 minutes then install quickly with red Loctite. Makes sense as the metals expanding but what about the heat breaking down the new Loctite? Maybe not since it's fresh I don't know.
 
I have always found a tire with a rim and a ratchet strap hold a engine pretty well why removing pto or vise versa just a FYI
 
I have always found a tire with a rim and a ratchet strap hold a engine pretty well why removing pto or vise versa just a FYI
This is why I ask. Never thought about a tire on the rim! Sounds better than 2' X 4's and a ratchet strap to me. Two grown men and a torch but it did come loose. Engine sliding all around the garage floor.
 
You don't need much to torque that PTO flywheel on, only requires about 55ft lbs. A quick rap with the air gun and you should be good, don't worry once you jam on the throttle a few times, the torque of 110hp will tighten it nicely for you.
 
You don't need much to torque that PTO flywheel on, only requires about 55ft lbs. A quick rap with the air gun and you should be good, don't worry once you jam on the throttle a few times, the torque of 110hp will tighten it nicely for you.
I guess it's time for some honesty here. Usually found that's best with you guys trying to help me. I originally thought about snuggling it up and figured the torque would tighten it on there. Wasn't sure about the rotation of the engine and the threads but figured they were for tightening the PTO. I got a little paranoid reading post about it constantly coming loose. Personally I didn't think it was that big of a deal. I'm going to rope it and torque it. Not real crazy about putting a rope in a fresh cylinder but....
 
1/2" impact on full forward, air pressure at 150 psi, three ugga duggas and you're good to go. Lol!

Just kidding,

I used the rope method too. 81 ft lbs isn't bad if you can hold it in place. I have two anchors mounted in my work bench, used a 2" ratchet strap to the anchors and got it good and tight and torqued it to 81 ft lbs.
 
Well wasn't bad at all! Ended up just strapping it to the workbench. Rope worked out great. 81 ft lbs wasn't as bad as I thought.
 
Never in 20 years have I used the boiling water move,,,let alone heard of it till now.
I will just stick to the rope in the cylinder with the piston on its way up,,,and long 1/2 inch power bar. The rotational torque of the engine will take care of the rest.
 
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