Engine overheating

[gazzaskirepair]

Family first buddy , it’s the end of season isn’t it, get the list of wife’s wishes out the way first

Doing the repairs yourself is rewarding in a sense you know you own machine and know what’s gone into it and not ripped off

Stick new plugs in it and check

 

[Toona]

Family first buddy , it’s the end of season isn’t it, get the list of wife’s wishes out the way first

Doing the repairs yourself is rewarding in a sense you know you own machine and know what’s gone into it and not ripped off

Stick new plugs in it and check

New plugs may have helped but there is still definitely an issue. I got it to run by taking it to 3k rpms, choking the engine and then flooring the throttle. After it ran for a bit I could throttle down to 1600 rpms and about 1/3rd off the time I could get it to push over 3k rpms by just accelerating. The other times, I'd have to take it to about 3k come off the throttle and then gun it and it would creep past 3500 and then accelerate. Once it got past about 4k, it would run perfectly. I got it up to 57 mph, so I think overall it is working well once I get it past 3k rpms.

However, no matter the method it stuck during acceleration around 3k-4k rpms. Above 4k, it responded well to acceleration and coming on/off the throttle.

 

[gazzaskirepair]

What’s been done since it ran without this problem

Still seems like bad fuel or carb settings etc

Message the moderator he has a thread on cleaning and setting carbs and far more clued up on two strokes than me

mikidymac

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Personal Watercraft Carburetor Tuning

Good explanation of throttle opening to needle adjustment etc
This will help you understand the full operation of carb settings etc

 

[Toona]

What’s been done since it ran without this problem

Still seems like bad fuel or carb settings etc

Message the moderator he has a thread on cleaning and setting carbs and far more clued up on two strokes than me

mikidymac

When I bought the machine it didn't run. I've rebuilt the carbs but I also rebuilt my other machine's carbs at the same time and that one runs great so I'm guessing I rebuilt it correctly but I'm guessing either my cables or needles are messed up. Thank you, I'll take a look at that other thread you linked to.

 

[gazzaskirepair]

What’s the compression like ?
Also the oil pump setting ?
Low rpm bogging is sometimes to much oil

I had a 657 motor that ran great once you got rpm up but low down was a bitch and smoked a lot
I ended up changing the crank as the inner seals went soft and ski was getting too much oil because the center rotary valve shaft oil cavity leaking into the lower engine below pistons

 

[Toona]

What’s the compression like ?
Also the oil pump setting ?
Low rpm bogging is sometimes to much oil

I had a 657 motor that ran great once you got rpm up but low down was a bitch and smoked a lot
I ended up changing the crank as the inner seals went soft and ski was getting too much oil because the center rotary valve shaft oil cavity leaking into the lower engine below pistons

My compression tester is coming, I just ordered it. Oil pump setting is set at the owner's manual settings

 

[Toona]

What’s the compression like ?
Also the oil pump setting ?
Low rpm bogging is sometimes to much oil

I had a 657 motor that ran great once you got rpm up but low down was a bitch and smoked a lot
I ended up changing the crank as the inner seals went soft and ski was getting too much oil because the center rotary valve shaft oil cavity leaking into the lower engine below pistons

Maybe @mikidymac can weigh in if he's available, but do you think it's worth me pulling the carb and tearing it apart again to double-check I built it correctly? Or would a problem like this most likely be related to tuning and adjustments

 

[noviceskier]

Did you only rebuild carbs? Did you replace the fuel selector valve and the filter aswell? Did you run a popoff test? Having to use choke to get past 3k sounds like a lean condition for me, since you took the exhaust apart, are you sure there isn't an exhaust leak somewhere? When you open the hood does it smell strong of fumes? It could be starving for air if so.

 

[Toona]

Did you only rebuild carbs? Did you replace the fuel selector valve and the filter aswell? Did you run a popoff test? Having to use choke to get past 3k sounds like a lean condition for me, since you took the exhaust apart, are you sure there isn't an exhaust leak somewhere? When you open the hood does it smell strong of fumes? It could be starving for air if so.

Sorry, yes. I replaced the fuel selector and all fuel lines as well. I ran the pop-off and it's set at 21 (19-23 range is indicated by the manufacturer). I never actually had to take the exhaust apart. I haven't noticed a strong fuel smell after running the engine

 

[gazzaskirepair]

You could try turn out the low speed screw a 1/4 of a turn
Is your idle set correctly 3000 out of water

 

[Toona]

You could try turn out the low speed screw a 1/4 of a turn
Is your idle set correctly 3000 out of water

I'll give it a try tomorrow morning. My idle is set at 2800 as recommended by @mikidymac

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Thought it should be 3000 that also helps the engine to rev quicker link below is just a reference for basic settings etc
When adjusting the low speed screw you should get the engine accelerating quicker when opening throttle and has a crisp sound
It’s trial and error for fine tuning
Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference

 

[Toona]

Thought it should be 3000 that also helps the engine to rev quicker link below is just a reference for basic settings etc
When adjusting the low speed screw you should get the engine accelerating quicker when opening throttle and has a crisp sound
It’s trial and error for fine tuning
Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference

Great read. thanks, I'll give some of it a try

 

[Toona]

Well, bad experience at the lake. The good is a that there manual says 1.5 turns on the low speed screws. I tried 1.75 and it still had issues around 3k rpms. I did 2 turns on each carbs low speed (720°) and it ran great.... for about 15 minutes. Then the engine started shaking badly and died and wouldn't restart. The 2 boats near me ignored ne when I blew my horn and my whistle. So I went to kick off the back to try and swim the ski to them. About 1/2 way there I flipped the ski and they all laughed. So I decided not to swim the next half (100 yards) as they clearly weren't going to help. So I swam the ski to shore in 50° water and walked the 5 miles to the marina and towed launched my 2nd ski and towed it back. Impeller is clear but today's experience and the experience of someone ignoring me when I needed help killed my motivation. I'm not sure what the problem is but I think I'll pay for the mechanic cause I'm cold and annoyed At least I got 1 ski working on my own, with your help.

Thanks for everything, all of you

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Try work with the mechanic
That way you’ll learn and see that your not getting ripped off and see what fixes it

Sorry to here of your misfortune but looks like there maybe multiple issues with ski

Pull the spark plugs and check send us pics

 

[Toona]

Try work with the mechanic
That way you’ll learn and see that your not getting ripped off and see what fixes it

Sorry to here of your misfortune but looks like there maybe multiple issues with ski

Pull the spark plugs and check send us pics

Here are the plugs:

Also, when I got home I tried starting both machines. The working machine started right up and didn't shoot any water out.

The 'broken machine's shot a TON of water out te jet but never started. The battery is low from me trying to start it on the water (I think) I tried starting it on my battery chargers 'battery start' function and it would turn over but never started. I'm going to let it keep charging and see if it'll finally start. But man, a TON of water shot out. I even had the plugs out so I know it's not from the bilge

 

[Toona]

Also, these plugs were brand new as of yesterday

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Howz the fuel level in tank ‍
Spray oil down plug holes and spin Engine over to coat bearings and cylinder with oil

You need to take pic of the plugs from bottom the center core of plug is what tells you how the running is

 

[Toona]

Howz the fuel level in tank ‍
Spray oil down plug holes and spin Engine over to coat bearings and cylinder with oil

You need to take pic of the plugs from bottom the center core of plug is what tells you how the running is

3/4 tank of fuel

 

[gazzaskirepair]

What’s your compression ‍

 

[Toona]

What’s your compression ‍

It was delivered. Unfortunately, I can't test because the engine won't turn over. The battery is full but it tries to turn over for .5 second then it beeps at me.

I know I can be an alarmist, but with the machine coming to a stop in the middle of riding with the engine jerking like crazy as it sputtered to a stop and now it won't turn over, could I have thrown a rod?

 

[FL-Rider]

Here are the plugs:
View attachment 44954
Also, when I got home I tried starting both machines. The working machine started right up and didn't shoot any water out.

The 'broken machine's shot a TON of water out te jet but never started. The battery is low from me trying to start it on the water (I think) I tried starting it on my battery chargers 'battery start' function and it would turn over but never started. I'm going to let it keep charging and see if it'll finally start. But man, a TON of water shot out. I even had the plugs out so I know it's not from the bilge

Water shooting out the exhaust is normal when you pull the ski out of the water and put it on the trailer. In fact, every time you trailer it, you're supposed to start the engine and give it a couple short revs to blow the excess water out of the muffler. That goes for after you flush it on the hose too.

Next time, avoid attempting to start the ski when hooked to a battery charger. That can damage the electrical system of the ski. Its OK to use jumper cables as long as the vehicle your jumping with is not running. The idea is a charger or running vehicle is putting out more than 12 volts and can cause problems. When using a battery charger, its better to charge the battery with the ground cable unhooked.

If possible, make sure there is no water coming out of the spark plug holes when you crank it. Hook spark plug boots to the grounding posts on the E-box, take out spark plugs, and crank over to see if water shoots out the holes. If there is water in the engine, you want to get it all out before resting tonight.

 

[noviceskier]

It was delivered. Unfortunately, I can't test because the engine won't turn over. The battery is full but it tries to turn over for .5 second then it beeps at me.

I know I can be an alarmist, but with the machine coming to a stop in the middle of riding with the engine jerking like crazy as it sputtered to a stop and now it won't turn over, could I have thrown a rod?

just remove plugs and turn it by hand and feel for abnormalities

 

[Toona]

Water shooting out the exhaust is normal when you pull the ski out of the water and put it on the trailer. In fact, every time you trailer it, you're supposed to start the engine and give it a couple short revs to blow the excess water out of the muffler. That goes for after you flush it on the hose too.

Next time, avoid attempting to start the ski when hooked to a battery charger. That can damage the electrical system of the ski. Its OK to use jumper cables as long as the vehicle your jumping with is not running. The idea is a charger or running vehicle is putting out more than 12 volts and can cause problems. When using a battery charger, its better to charge the battery with the ground cable unhooked.

If possible, make sure there is no water coming out of the spark plug holes when you crank it. Hook spark plug boots to the grounding posts on the E-box, take out spark plugs, and crank over to see if water shoots out the holes. If there is water in the engine, you want to get it all out before resting tonight.

No water came out.