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clarification on winterization in regards to antifreeze

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There seems to be 100 schools of thought on this. Some people follow the book with pinching hoses and pouring into the outlet port. Some hook up a hose to the flush port and run it while dumping in the antifreeze. Both ways seem to have their merits. I live in pennsylvania, the ski will be stored in my garage allbeit an unheated one, what do you guys suggest?

Thanks
ryan

P.s. wish i lived in florida and didnt have to do this
 
I just follow what the manual says. Pinch off the drain hose and unplug and pour through the inlet hose after the engine is off and fogged.
 
Maybe im misreading something... the manual says to put the antifreeze in the outlet side of the head and to simply remove the hose from inlet side... you are saying the inlet side, am i misreading or just getting caught up in semantics?
 
It really doesn't make any difference, they both go the same place, in fact for winter storage I just put a short piece of hose from the inlet to the flush hose, and finish filling from the inlet at the front of the head cover.

Lou
 

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I think the key is to push the water out of the engine. Isn't better after the the pinky, start the engine to blow the pink (99% is water) out?


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I have a question that I would like answered. do you really need to put in any antifreeze? I know "you will be sorry" will be the next reply. I didn't get a manual when I bought my 1996 GTX 3 months ago so I don't know what it would have said. I did buy a repair manual and in the storage section it goes to great lengths to tell you to take the carbs apart drain the fuel tank and so forth, but not a word about antifreeze. in reading many threads about winterizing, hoses are pinched off to keep the antifreeze from running out. I would think the water would have run out of those hoses when you took it out of the water just like an outboard engine. does the water not run out of the block drain hose as soon as you stop the engine?
 
By looking at the engine cooling hoses and the shop manual, yes, 787 is almost self draining for the engine block because the drain ports are at the lowest point of the circuit. But there are still nooks and crannies may hold small amount of water, which may freeze and crack things. So running antifreeze through the system and hold it in the system for a while, will replace that little amount of water with the antifreeze.
Also the muffler is a tank, which could hold some water there too. If run the antifreeze the right way, it will get there too.
But i don't really think you have to keep the antifreeze in the engine if it is kept indoor, because air and antifreeze are both good :-)
Here is the 787 cooling circuit from the manual
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1413061244.627581.jpg


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Thanks be to god I live in Fl and don't have to worry about it.. However I do take my fogging pretty seriously.. Better safe than sorry
 
thank you very much. this is the first diagram I have seen that shows how water flows through my engine. this answers a lot of questions. by the way, I put antifreeze in my ski yesterday. the old better safe than sorry deal. pinched off the drain hose, filled the engine, unpinched the hose and the antifreeze came out of the exhaust. wouldn't it be better if the drain hoses from the block didn't tee under the engine, but teeded further back so you could blow through them separately to be sure neither is stopped up. I can't see where they come out of the block even with a mirror.
 
I have a few questions. One is it best to keep anti freeze in the engine and not to let it drain out or just run it and flush it out. Also how about the jet pump oil everyone focus on the engine do change it every year or just check it?
 
I have a question that I would like answered. do you really need to put in any antifreeze? I know "you will be sorry" will be the next reply. I didn't get a manual when I bought my 1996 GTX 3 months ago so I don't know what it would have said. I did buy a repair manual and in the storage section it goes to great lengths to tell you to take the carbs apart drain the fuel tank and so forth, but not a word about antifreeze. in reading many threads about winterizing, hoses are pinched off to keep the antifreeze from running out. I would think the water would have run out of those hoses when you took it out of the water just like an outboard engine. does the water not run out of the block drain hose as soon as you stop the engine?

The seadoo manual calls it "long term storing" and then has a subsection that says "for freezing temperatures" which goes in depth about winterization.
 
I would NEVER assume the water fully drains out ( I also know it will not), some will be left and it could be enough for damage. Here is a thread I made on doing an X4 with a 787. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?67608-1996-XP-Winterization Winterizing is a piece of cake my linked procedure would take me like 15 minutes (with getting tools) to do and a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze. Please download the manual for your particular ski the GS has a 720 which requires an additional line to be pinched as well, and the GTX RFI has some other cooling lines which need to be drained (case cooler IIRC) to properly winterize. Either join as a premium member and download the shop manual or Google for the service manual. I keep my lines pinched all winter, but it's fine not to.
 
Harbor freight has a 12v one. Walmart has 4' hoses with nice big yellow knobs. I stick one end in a gallon of antifreeze, start engine, start pump. When it uses a gallon, shut off water pump, then engine.

Then a few other things. I'd have made a video but it's not really the official way....

So I don't want anyone to misconstrue the info.

If your doing 1 ski, it's a lot of parts and easier to just use the hose method. If like me you do 4+. It's your call.

I also add fuel stabilizer, blow out water by revving engine (briefly) before the antifreeze. I also then shut off fuel valve, remove and ground plug wires, then crank 3x for 20 seconds each at full throttle to clear the carbs and flood engine with oil for the winter.

Then remove plugs and raves. Clean raves and use engine fogged in home from now removed rave.

Finally slap it all back together. And remove battery. I put in fresh plugs after the first run in the spring.

My methods are my own. Its your ski. You decide what to do.
 
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Ohh and grease what needs greased. Also I coat metal parts of engine with wd40 or engine fogged for the winter. Metal parts like oil. And change your jet pump oil. I change mine every 2 years, but again, that's me.
 
I ended up following the manual... the clarifications on here are awesome as i didnt really understand all the places that the antifreeze goes... i also changed my pump oil.... somebody said on here some place that pump oil smells like rotting carcus... good god they were right, there are some things you just cant unsmell
 
Once you know the way the system works it's very easy. Call me a freak, I love the smell of the pump oil.
 
How can one like that smell? Maybe im just bitter because in addition to the bad smell i dropped a wrench in the pan i drained it in causing the pan to flip in the air and dump on me
 
I'm the kid that grew up sniffing the gas can while filling up my go kart or the lawn mower.

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I heard somewhere that Seadoo pump oil is made from whale oil, I don't know if it's true or not. I use Mobile 1, LS, GL5 75w-90 synthetic oil for the pump oil, one of the reasons, besides the cost is the smell of Seadoo pump oil, it does smell awful. Maybe Dan has sniffed one too many gas cans.

Lou
 
My Brother and I wore out 2 trail bikes. We would siphen gas from Dad's truck. Stick the hose in suck, no gas try again. Then hit the ground! Been huffing gas fumes!
 
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