Seized bolts....any advice?

[LKGrider]

I know we have all had this issue....the exhaust and head bolts on these motors that don't want to come out. They are usually covered with that white powdery oxidation/corrosion. I try taking my time removing them but sometimes end unsnapping them off. Anyone have any tricks or tips to remove them without damaging anything?

(Title edited by Coastiejoe for clarity).

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

They are usually covered with that white powdery oxidation/corrosion.

Also known as "White Death", I usually squirt some automatic transmission fluid all over them and let it soak for a while. Even better if you want something better then mix some acetone with ATF 50%, I think the acetone can help penetration and soften thread locker if it was assembled using lock-tite. The acetone also tends to thin the ATF to allow deeper penetration.

I prefer using antiseize compound in many locations for aluminum assemblies, there are places where I think it's a bad idea though, like on brackets that handle large weight and are prone to vibrating lose, such as pipe brackets and motor mounts.

Basically, if it's a screw that I plan on removing fairly often it gets antiseize, especially spark plug threads on 4-stroke engines with aluminum heads.

Another even more secret penetrating lubricant is powdered graphite stirred well with isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol carries the graphite with it.

Or, you could try just plain water from the start before applying any oil, you might be surprised.....

And heat from a torch helps as well, and a sharp rap with a hammer to keep from twisting off those frozen fasteners.

 

[purple_people_eater]

a set of allen headed sockets, a good set will run you about 20 to 30 bucks, will be your best friend. a couple hits with a hammer at the end of a 5" extension and it brakes most stuff free. other than that i do the atf/ pb blaster/ or tcw3 oil soak.

 

[69boss]

Try an impact if room. Othwerwise the below fortifies the above comment.


*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use
it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for
about 20% of the price.

Adding, the shock of an impact might free the fastner. However if the bolt or nut is gaulded break it off and drill it out your done. Get a good hard bit, stainless is a bugger to drill out.

 

[LKGrider]

^^^really good to know. Thanks everyone. I do have a good set of snap on Allen sockets. So I guess the 50/50 mix of atf/acetone is the best bet. Break the head loose and soak it a bit.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Another thing I forgot to mention is once you get the galvanic bond broken lose those fasteners can still gall (especially stainless fastener in a stainless threaded hole), so keep working it back and forth and work more penetrant into the threads instead of thinking it's free enough to remove, unscrew maybe 1/4~1/2 turn then back in half of that, back and forth till the lubricant can get in there.

What happens is small pieces of aluminum threads can break off when trying to remove due to the galvanic bonding to the stainless and of course these broken pieces of thread remain lodged in between the stainless screw threads and cause further galling b/c there's no space for the unbroken threads to pass.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I tell you what, stainless steel is about impossible to drill out, I hope you never have to do it. You will save a bunck of time if you can get the fastener out without having to break it off if it's stainless that stuff doesn't drill well AT ALL so take your time, work it back and forth, heat it, smack it, let it soak! Stainless is just so incredibly difficult to drill through it's not funny.

 

[Mickirig1]

I have one of the little oxygen / Map gas torches. It does a great job of heating. Not a lot of flame splash from it. I try to heat stuff 3 times and most times it turns right out.

 

[RodInEscondido]

I tell you what, stainless steel is about impossible to drill out, I hope you never have to do it. You will save a bunck of time if you can get the fastener out without having to break it off if it's stainless that stuff doesn't drill well AT ALL so take your time, work it back and forth, heat it, smack it, let it soak! Stainless is just so incredibly difficult to drill through it's not funny.

Heed what he says. I have a couple broken off cylinder head bolts that I have been trying to drill out off-and-on for a year. When I start getting real impatient, I squirt them down with kroil and go away for a month or so and try again. Slow speed with the drill bits. I had not heard about the acetone/atf mix before; will need to mix me up a batch of that stuff. With smaller screws/bolts I have had some success with using a spring-loaded center punch to give a little shock before trying to remove them.

 

[LKGrider]

I will def be trying out some of these ways soon.. I have a lot of projects in the works

 

[1of500]

Also when drilling out a bolt especially stainless get a thing of cutting oil and keep the bit lubed. It will keep the bit cool and keep it sharp.

 

[LKGrider]

Hoping I don't break any. I have in the past and luckily SES said don't worry about them he would get them out. But I have run into a few breaking off before on exhaust. Just trying to figure out the best way to do it and avoid breaking them.

 

[69boss]

I'll add one more thing. Many newer cars have stainless fastners on the exhaust systems. What I have found is an impact gun will get them right off. Removing them by hand in 1/2 - 1 turn the gaulding process is started and a resulting broken bolt. Don't know why it works it just does. It is hard to tell yourself to hit the trigger but if there is room might consider it.

 

[eddie708]

lube and a impact gun

 

[Dannyjd]

Seized bolts....any advise?

If they break and you need to drill stainless, just drill slow with a whole lot of pressure.
I just use high speed steel drill bits, no need for any other fancy bits.

Do not use an easy out if they break!!

 

[Dannyjd]

I don't use any "special" cutting fluid anymore. I ran out one day and had some quicksilver API TC in the back of the ute and used that, works great.
Been using it a couple of years now.

 

[1of500]

The main purpose of the cutting oil is to keep the bit cool. So you can use just about anything with a decent viscosity

 

[Dannyjd]

The main purpose of the cutting oil is to keep the bit cool. So you can use just about anything with a decent viscosity

I agree 100%
My full time business for the last 15 years has been mobile thread repairs servicing workshops/dealers/private.
Happy to give advice if someone is stuck.
I remove broken drills, taps, easy outs, spark plugs in situ, glow plugs with head on etc.

 

[Lyndon]

Hi I have removed only 4 head bolts from 951 Di and the rest are locked up. Would the best idea be to remove the engine and cut the heads off to remove the head and then use a stud extractor

 

[Coastiejoe]

If you can get a hammer to them, a nick square smack on the head will often break things loose. Try to be nice and square as this limits crunching the top and making it harder to put the Allen in it and, it helps to get the impact down to the threads.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I guess the nuts came off but there's still corrosion around the studs holding things together. You of course used acetone and ATF trans fluid mix 50% as penetrant. Has the PTO been removed yet? If not try stuffing the top of cylinder with rope and twist off the PTO..... With any luck maybe the head studs will loosen?

Otherwise yeah, short of cutting the head around the studs maybe beating on them with a hammer will loosen something enuff.

Corrosion can ruin stuff pretty fast.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Or, maybe weld the nut to the stud and I like the impact idea as well. I agree stainless in stainless is easy to gall and sometimes it's best just to keep turning in the same direction, not the case with aluminum and stainless I think, the aluminum is so much softer.

Stainless looks like velcro under a microscope.

 

[RodInEscondido]

patience, but ...

I would sure like to find a source for aviation-type bolts for the head bolts, drilled so I can use anti-seize and safety wire ... oh yea, gotta remove the originals first.

 

[Pointhunter75]

My carb bolts were seized through the carb bodies on 95xp. Sprayed pb blaster on them for a week, several times a day. Ended up breaking one off in the intake and had to drill it out. What a mess. I put anti seize on them and ride a few times and both carbs vibrate loose. Powderized the gaskets. I put on new gaskets, blue locktighted the threads and anti seized the shanks of the bolts.

 

[Nathan Mayo]

Here's my 2 cents. Heat 'em up with a torch and when they are screaming hot touch the juncture of the bolt and the block with a crayon or some other form of paraffin wax. The heat causes it to suck down along the threads. The other ideas were also good. Heat is your friend when it comes to getting penetration down the thread line. Let it cool and then pound it a bit with an impact wrench.