Hi i have a 96 seadoo gti 717.i took it out to the lake today and it started fine,but when i tried to go fast it wouldnt go past 15mph.and then it died.i checked it.i seems like its not getting fuel.I unhooked the the fuel hose that comes out the fuel filter and nothing comes out.i was the lines arent plug cuz i blow air through there.i was wondering if it the fuel sending unit it the one that pumps fuel through the line or wat else can it be I need help.
96 seadoo gti problem
- Thread starter gar101
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Three models that year. This should apply:
To REPLACE FUEL LINES
Tempo fuel line was used on all skis from 1994 thru 2002. Seadoo 587's-717's = 25'of 1/4"fuel line. Metric is a 6mm ID.
First, remove the negative battery cable from battery then siphon and empty any gas from tank.
On 587's, 657's, & 717 skis, cut the new 1/4"I.S.dia. gas line one piece 12" long, two pieces 24" long, two pieces 60" long.
Remove the fuel selector switch by pulling the center plug of the fuel dial with a needle, and remove the phillips #2 screw,
and wiggle & pull until the knob pulls off. Then unscrew the 22mm plastic nut, washer, and push it thru the hull, into interior
compartment. Next, under steering and in front compartment, useing a 10mm ratchet wrench, remove the nut on top of the separator
filter's bracket to free it. Cut all the old fuel lines about 2" away from each part, and set aside. On top of the fuel tank is
a four line bafel top. Look for the vent line and pull that up and off, it probly will come easily. Make a mental note of the
zip ties to the lines as you will tie everything secure from bouncing around when you are done. Next, cut the three remaing lines
2" above the bafel, and pull them up and off as well. Next, undo the two rubber strapes holding the gas tank down in its position,
then unclip the fuel bafel two wire electrical connector. Unhook starboard oil tank strap. At this point you could attempt removal of the bafel from tank,
Inspect the fuel separator/filter O-ring and gas tank vent one-way check valve. Remove the gas tank fuel bafel and clean the bottom screen,
this is the most overlooked filter in the fuel delivery system. When clogged can overwork the drawing power of the carburetor fuel pump. Any Goo from deteriorated lines is immediatly recirculated into the outgoing fuel supply line. Any tubulented goo drops to bottom of the bafel when ski sits.
or wait and grab the emty gas tank from frontside and remove from the ski thru the compartment hatch, and you mat be able to manuver
it out along with the tank as a unit. Remove the fafel by loosening the lower gear clamp and pulling the bafel up. A circuit board and
a float with a magnet on it is inside the bafel and sends a signal to the MPEM and gauge as to the fuel level. The bottom of the bafel
has a clip/screen, you should remove and clean, and look at the short and full lenth fuel straw in there. The one that is at bottom
where the clip/screen is, is the RESERVE. The one thats about 1 1/2" short is the ON straw. Mark the On & Reserve spigot tube at the
top of the bafel on each tube. Even draw a circle front of the tank bafel with a majick marker of the two wires and four tubes. Mark the O & R on
your drawing, the two other tubes, one is a vent line connection, the other is the fuel returm line from carb & returns unused fuel to tank tube.
Remove the Carburator Air Box to gain access and remove the supply and return fuel lines from the carbs, and discard them. Next, clean
out the fuel tank (use a rag swab on a slim rod) Clean the fuel bafel, disassemble the fuel separator bowl and filter and square O-ring
and clean with soapy water. Clean (if yours has a disassembly screw) or replace the fuel selector switch. Next, useing a helper to lift on
the Oil Tank, slide the clean tank with bafel installed into position and secure the two straps on the gas tank and starboard side strap of oil tank.
Next, look at the fuel selector switch and push the two 2 ft new hoses on the ON and RESERVE nipple and the 1' hose on the unmarked or "fuel out"
nipple and secure with Oetiker clamps, 7 1/2" quality zip tie (TY-RAP) on #4 screw clamps, the three installed hoses. Majic mark the open ends
of the ON hose with an "O" and "R" on the reserve. Push the open end of the short 1' hose onto the assembled separator filter "in" nipple and
secure. Install the 5' hose previously cut on the arrowed "out" on the separator/filter as the supply line to carburetor. Next, remount this unit
first back onto the hull bracket, lines faceing front, and then selector to hull, and secure both. Look at your drawing on tank and bafel and
attach the O to O, and R to R. Next apply air pressure to the old vent line,and if it escapes out the starboard vent hole that is just below the
outside bumper, the check valve and line are OK and re-useable. Apply same to vent at the front compartment latch to check that line and valve.
If it vents the pressure out the S/b same hole, it is OK also. Connect vent line to either bafel nipple and secure. Route the supply fuel line
so it goes in front of the gas filler hose, then back thru the Black multi-holder, then to front carb. Cut a 5' fuel line and attach and secure
to the fourth bafel nipple, and route it next to the supply line previously ran, and route it to the rear of carburetor. Reconnect the electric
bafel wires. Next, useing ZIP-TIES, secure just barely snug, all lines and wires, insureing clearance of front compartment basket. Next you are
ready to put gas in the tank and purge the fuel delivery lines of air useing air pressure applyed into the rear carb return hose, and with fuel
cap on and fuel selector at ON position and then in the RESERVE position, insureing the fuel routes thru the supply line. Gental pressure applied
several times will net the desired gas flowing results.For the carbs to work, you have got to have the flame arrestor on. This is what creates resistance, along with the manifold pressure created by the compression of the engine, to get the gas to the motor. So, if you don't have the flame arrestor on, you'll never get fuel to the motor.
A plastic fuel selector valve is preferred over an aluminum because the aluminum can Oxidize from moisture and results in common corrosion, mineral coagulation and electolitic accumilation, & saltwater mineral electrolosis.
Use of White Litheum Grease brushed liberaly on the Aluminum Carburetor(s) stops permiation of moisture thru the metal. It lubricates the linkages & cables thereto attached. Use of Stabile or Seafoam as and additive in the gas, along with a small amount of Injection Oil will help unavoidable contaminats from damageing the fuel delivery system, such as rust from fuel suppliers
the fuel float magnet oxidation, carburetor internal steel part oxidation, and chemically reduces the size of the moisture molecule, which helps fuel flow delivery system componets.
Use your Pop off tester to check the IN & OUT directional air check valves in the breath line attached to Bafel top nipple, up to the hatch "in" vent and rub rail "expell" vent . They should open and allow air flow at 3-5 lbs psi. if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it and goes into lower case,
causeing over-rich condition resulting in hard starting and poor performance.
HOW TO ROUTE/PURGE FUEL SYSTEM LINES
Listening closly, Open gas cap in case any pressure is in there, then re-tighten. Remove the gas supply line from carb
and put the hose end into a catch bottle. Remove the fuel return gas line from carb nipple and blow a small amount of air chuck pressure into return line. Watch routeing fuel flow easily from
supply in a bottle, IF it routes good, the carb is faulty from a clog or pump diaphram has a hole.
Check pulse tube for clog, it operates the fuel pump with a push-pull or suck-blow as pistons
go up-down in engine case, that is how the mag carb pump actuates route pressure thru the carb, and back into gas tank . A WD-40 straw works good for that. Attach a 2'short fuel line to the tube and if you can blow into the crank-case, its clear of debris.
On dual carb systems, when the mag carb (it gets fuel first) clogs and the PTO carb starves as a result, and that cylinder runs lean, then seizes first. Running lean can cause Glow-plugging and the engine will Rev run-away. Pulling off the lanyard will not help. Asphyxiating by pulling choke and opening throttle may stop engine run-away. Pulling spark wires may injure you and not kill engine as its getting fire from burning piston carbon or red hot spark plug.
Any SeaDoo or other jetski with OEM grey tempo fuel lines will need the entire fuel system rebuilt due to known problems with internal fuel-line deterioration & resin goo clogging up the small internal carborator filters, fuel selector valve and most other fuel system components. Symptoms also include engine bogging at higher speeds (3500 rpm). Continued riding will cause carbonizing & a burned aluminum pistons and engine failure due to lean fuel/air mixtures and high combustion temps. The only solution is to replace ALL the fuel lines with standard automotive NAPA lines, clear race Fuel lines like: http://fuellines.biz, or equivalent, rebuild the carborators with rebuild kits,new needle & seats, and replacing the fuel selector valve. It is suggested to install a clear glass marine grade inline fuel filter just before the carborators to catch any remaining debris, and do a pre-ride dump of the separator fuel bowl.
Inspect the fuel separator,filter,square O-ring and gas tank vent TWO one-way check valves, that open at 3-5 lbs psi. One breaths air in from near front compartment latch, One expells under the rub rail, if this one clogs or fails overpressure in tank can open the needle valve(s) and leak fuel into a shut off engine. A hard to start occurs and can wear out a starter prematurly. The fuel bafel's bottom removable cap filter/screen if not cleaned recirculates hardened injection oil mineral sludge Goo/debris into the carbs, over & over until the carb filters fail, then bogging occures.
To REPLACE FUEL LINES
Tempo fuel line was used on all skis from 1994 thru 2002. Seadoo 587's-717's = 25'of 1/4"fuel line. Metric is a 6mm ID.
First, remove the negative battery cable from battery then siphon and empty any gas from tank.
On 587's, 657's, & 717 skis, cut the new 1/4"I.S.dia. gas line one piece 12" long, two pieces 24" long, two pieces 60" long.
Remove the fuel selector switch by pulling the center plug of the fuel dial with a needle, and remove the phillips #2 screw,
and wiggle & pull until the knob pulls off. Then unscrew the 22mm plastic nut, washer, and push it thru the hull, into interior
compartment. Next, under steering and in front compartment, useing a 10mm ratchet wrench, remove the nut on top of the separator
filter's bracket to free it. Cut all the old fuel lines about 2" away from each part, and set aside. On top of the fuel tank is
a four line bafel top. Look for the vent line and pull that up and off, it probly will come easily. Make a mental note of the
zip ties to the lines as you will tie everything secure from bouncing around when you are done. Next, cut the three remaing lines
2" above the bafel, and pull them up and off as well. Next, undo the two rubber strapes holding the gas tank down in its position,
then unclip the fuel bafel two wire electrical connector. Unhook starboard oil tank strap. At this point you could attempt removal of the bafel from tank,
Inspect the fuel separator/filter O-ring and gas tank vent one-way check valve. Remove the gas tank fuel bafel and clean the bottom screen,
this is the most overlooked filter in the fuel delivery system. When clogged can overwork the drawing power of the carburetor fuel pump. Any Goo from deteriorated lines is immediatly recirculated into the outgoing fuel supply line. Any tubulented goo drops to bottom of the bafel when ski sits.
or wait and grab the emty gas tank from frontside and remove from the ski thru the compartment hatch, and you mat be able to manuver
it out along with the tank as a unit. Remove the fafel by loosening the lower gear clamp and pulling the bafel up. A circuit board and
a float with a magnet on it is inside the bafel and sends a signal to the MPEM and gauge as to the fuel level. The bottom of the bafel
has a clip/screen, you should remove and clean, and look at the short and full lenth fuel straw in there. The one that is at bottom
where the clip/screen is, is the RESERVE. The one thats about 1 1/2" short is the ON straw. Mark the On & Reserve spigot tube at the
top of the bafel on each tube. Even draw a circle front of the tank bafel with a majick marker of the two wires and four tubes. Mark the O & R on
your drawing, the two other tubes, one is a vent line connection, the other is the fuel returm line from carb & returns unused fuel to tank tube.
Remove the Carburator Air Box to gain access and remove the supply and return fuel lines from the carbs, and discard them. Next, clean
out the fuel tank (use a rag swab on a slim rod) Clean the fuel bafel, disassemble the fuel separator bowl and filter and square O-ring
and clean with soapy water. Clean (if yours has a disassembly screw) or replace the fuel selector switch. Next, useing a helper to lift on
the Oil Tank, slide the clean tank with bafel installed into position and secure the two straps on the gas tank and starboard side strap of oil tank.
Next, look at the fuel selector switch and push the two 2 ft new hoses on the ON and RESERVE nipple and the 1' hose on the unmarked or "fuel out"
nipple and secure with Oetiker clamps, 7 1/2" quality zip tie (TY-RAP) on #4 screw clamps, the three installed hoses. Majic mark the open ends
of the ON hose with an "O" and "R" on the reserve. Push the open end of the short 1' hose onto the assembled separator filter "in" nipple and
secure. Install the 5' hose previously cut on the arrowed "out" on the separator/filter as the supply line to carburetor. Next, remount this unit
first back onto the hull bracket, lines faceing front, and then selector to hull, and secure both. Look at your drawing on tank and bafel and
attach the O to O, and R to R. Next apply air pressure to the old vent line,and if it escapes out the starboard vent hole that is just below the
outside bumper, the check valve and line are OK and re-useable. Apply same to vent at the front compartment latch to check that line and valve.
If it vents the pressure out the S/b same hole, it is OK also. Connect vent line to either bafel nipple and secure. Route the supply fuel line
so it goes in front of the gas filler hose, then back thru the Black multi-holder, then to front carb. Cut a 5' fuel line and attach and secure
to the fourth bafel nipple, and route it next to the supply line previously ran, and route it to the rear of carburetor. Reconnect the electric
bafel wires. Next, useing ZIP-TIES, secure just barely snug, all lines and wires, insureing clearance of front compartment basket. Next you are
ready to put gas in the tank and purge the fuel delivery lines of air useing air pressure applyed into the rear carb return hose, and with fuel
cap on and fuel selector at ON position and then in the RESERVE position, insureing the fuel routes thru the supply line. Gental pressure applied
several times will net the desired gas flowing results.For the carbs to work, you have got to have the flame arrestor on. This is what creates resistance, along with the manifold pressure created by the compression of the engine, to get the gas to the motor. So, if you don't have the flame arrestor on, you'll never get fuel to the motor.
A plastic fuel selector valve is preferred over an aluminum because the aluminum can Oxidize from moisture and results in common corrosion, mineral coagulation and electolitic accumilation, & saltwater mineral electrolosis.
Use of White Litheum Grease brushed liberaly on the Aluminum Carburetor(s) stops permiation of moisture thru the metal. It lubricates the linkages & cables thereto attached. Use of Stabile or Seafoam as and additive in the gas, along with a small amount of Injection Oil will help unavoidable contaminats from damageing the fuel delivery system, such as rust from fuel suppliers
the fuel float magnet oxidation, carburetor internal steel part oxidation, and chemically reduces the size of the moisture molecule, which helps fuel flow delivery system componets.
Use your Pop off tester to check the IN & OUT directional air check valves in the breath line attached to Bafel top nipple, up to the hatch "in" vent and rub rail "expell" vent . They should open and allow air flow at 3-5 lbs psi. if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it and goes into lower case,
causeing over-rich condition resulting in hard starting and poor performance.
HOW TO ROUTE/PURGE FUEL SYSTEM LINES
Listening closly, Open gas cap in case any pressure is in there, then re-tighten. Remove the gas supply line from carb
and put the hose end into a catch bottle. Remove the fuel return gas line from carb nipple and blow a small amount of air chuck pressure into return line. Watch routeing fuel flow easily from
supply in a bottle, IF it routes good, the carb is faulty from a clog or pump diaphram has a hole.
Check pulse tube for clog, it operates the fuel pump with a push-pull or suck-blow as pistons
go up-down in engine case, that is how the mag carb pump actuates route pressure thru the carb, and back into gas tank . A WD-40 straw works good for that. Attach a 2'short fuel line to the tube and if you can blow into the crank-case, its clear of debris.
On dual carb systems, when the mag carb (it gets fuel first) clogs and the PTO carb starves as a result, and that cylinder runs lean, then seizes first. Running lean can cause Glow-plugging and the engine will Rev run-away. Pulling off the lanyard will not help. Asphyxiating by pulling choke and opening throttle may stop engine run-away. Pulling spark wires may injure you and not kill engine as its getting fire from burning piston carbon or red hot spark plug.
Any SeaDoo or other jetski with OEM grey tempo fuel lines will need the entire fuel system rebuilt due to known problems with internal fuel-line deterioration & resin goo clogging up the small internal carborator filters, fuel selector valve and most other fuel system components. Symptoms also include engine bogging at higher speeds (3500 rpm). Continued riding will cause carbonizing & a burned aluminum pistons and engine failure due to lean fuel/air mixtures and high combustion temps. The only solution is to replace ALL the fuel lines with standard automotive NAPA lines, clear race Fuel lines like: http://fuellines.biz, or equivalent, rebuild the carborators with rebuild kits,new needle & seats, and replacing the fuel selector valve. It is suggested to install a clear glass marine grade inline fuel filter just before the carborators to catch any remaining debris, and do a pre-ride dump of the separator fuel bowl.
Inspect the fuel separator,filter,square O-ring and gas tank vent TWO one-way check valves, that open at 3-5 lbs psi. One breaths air in from near front compartment latch, One expells under the rub rail, if this one clogs or fails overpressure in tank can open the needle valve(s) and leak fuel into a shut off engine. A hard to start occurs and can wear out a starter prematurly. The fuel bafel's bottom removable cap filter/screen if not cleaned recirculates hardened injection oil mineral sludge Goo/debris into the carbs, over & over until the carb filters fail, then bogging occures.
elmorekevin
New Member
great write-up
Most complete description of the problems and solutions for fuel starvation I have found on one page on the entire internet! Wish I had seen the part about flame arrestor having to be installed weeks ago.
Most complete description of the problems and solutions for fuel starvation I have found on one page on the entire internet! Wish I had seen the part about flame arrestor having to be installed weeks ago.
waveracer21
New Member
The gray fuel lines will need to be replaced with black fuel lines. The carbs have a small internal filter that will get clogged up, you need to get a repair manual clymer Also the fuel valve also gets clogged up.... Use ethanol fuel treatment after that.
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