Hello, Back in the PWC World

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
onesaintsfan

onesaintsfan

Member
some dear friends of mine gave me and my son a 2000 Sea Doo GTX Millennium edition ski.& trailer. Last ski I owned was a 2004 Yamaha XT1200. The ski was stored on a lift under a roof nut not covered. They are older and their memory is not the greatest. They are not very mechanically inclined so Im not sure of the maintance history.
According to them they ski has not been used in 1.5 to 2 years. Im sure it was never winterized . On the outside the ski is intact with everything there. It just needs a good cleaning. Seats are in good shape with minimal fading on no cracking. Obviously the battery is dead. All he could remember is the ski not starting a long time ago but could not recall if it was just battery or not firing. I am fairly mechanically inclined as I do all my own work on motorcycles. My limit would be tearing down an engine. I am a certified youtube mechanic HaHaHa So after getting it home and taking the seats off nothing obvious jumped out at me. Everything appears to be there with no shadetree modifications. biggest worry from the jump is that if it were never winterized could it have a cracked block? . We live in the deep south but did have a couple of deep freeze days over the winter. there is a small amount of oily looking sludge in the bilge along with some dirt dopper nests under the seat. My son is 19 and this will be a project for the both of us. I have a 22ft chaparral that is our main watercraft, so this will be a toy to use with it. I look forward to getting a lot of help and suggestions from you all. It will be a few days before I can start on it, but here is my plan of attack

Remove plugs and spray PB blaster in cylinders to soak for a couple of days
Remove and check battery but Im sure a new one will be needed
Clean hull and inside engine compartment.
pump out all old fuel and oil.
install new battery and see if engine turns over
check compression
new fuel, oil, and spark plugs and see if she will fire.
change oil?

2 questions right off the bat. Where is the dipstick to check oil ( is there one)?
will a standard garden hose screw onto the water inlet to run engine or is there a special adapter?
what is that small screen in the second pic?
Is there just a screen and not an air filter in the intake?
also those orange prongs are those ground blocks for jumping?
what would you suggest to use and how should I clean the bilge out.


Ive watched a ton of youtube videos and am getting an idea of things to check. so make suggestions
pardon the photo dump

Thanks in advance

update
I pulled the plugs ( see pic)
I ran a ziptie down each cylinder and best I can tell there is no water or oil in there
I sprayed PB blaster in each cylinder to soak
I removed the battery and its toast.




Thanks again and hoping this ski is not a complete bust. trailer is in ok shape, but if the ski is viable I will completely renew it. Any links and advice will be very welcome. Any tweaks to my plan of attack welcome
 

Attachments

  • seadoo 1.jpg
    seadoo 1.jpg
    385.4 KB · Views: 12
  • seadoo 5.jpeg
    seadoo 5.jpeg
    450.5 KB · Views: 11
  • seadoo 6.jpeg
    seadoo 6.jpeg
    442.1 KB · Views: 11
  • seadoo 7.JPG
    seadoo 7.JPG
    439.3 KB · Views: 10
  • seadoo 4.jpeg
    seadoo 4.jpeg
    562 KB · Views: 11
  • seadoo 3.jpeg
    seadoo 3.jpeg
    426.7 KB · Views: 10
  • seadoo 2.jpeg
    seadoo 2.jpeg
    655.2 KB · Views: 8
Without going through your list of questions I thought it important to let you know not to jump the ski with a running vehicle, it is well known in the Seadoo community not to do this as it can and does destroy expensive electronic components. Once you do get it running, the flush adapter is just that, for flushing, not for running the ski out of water. It should only be ran on the hose long enough to flush the ski, say about 1 minute maximum. When your flushing the ski It’s important that the water is never running when the ski is not, so start ski, turn on water, turn off water, shit off ski. If you just want to know if it will run, you can just start it on the trailer without the garden hose and it can safely run for 20 seconds or so. The orange posts are for grounding the plug boots to when you want to do a compression test, always ground the plug wires to these orange posts if your cranking the engine over with the plugs out. Which brings me to your first test, tease the plugs out and see if you can turn the engine over by hand at the PTO at the rear of the engine. Before ever trying to crank the engine over with the starter, take plugs out again, ground the plug wires and roll the engine over with the starter to blow out angtjjhothat could possibly be in the crankcase like 2 stroke oil. Sometimes when sitting for long periods the 2 stroke oil that’s in the rotary valve cavity can leak past the inner crank seals that seperate the rotary valve cavity from the rest of the crankcase hydro locking the engine on oil. This is true for all Seadoo 2 stroke engine except the 951 2 strokes which don’t have a rotary valve, they have reeds. Not sure what engine you have? I’m sure it would be a 2 stroke though, so no crankcase oil to check like in a 4 stroke. Post a picture of the engine. There’s a plethora of things that could be done to ensure a reliable ride but I would squirt a tablespoon or so of 2 stroke oil in the plug holes and let it sit for a day. Before putting any major time or money into it, do a compression test. You really should pick a good 2 stroke oil API-TC rated, clean out the oil tank, change the in line oil filter, get as much oil out of the rotary valve as possible and then stick with the oil you choose, mixing the oils can sometimes cause them to congeal. If after changing oil brands, pumping out old gas and refilling with new you want to try and start it up, some would disagree but I say give it a try, but if it’s not running right, example bogging, then don’t keep driving it, you will have to fix whatever the issues are, or risk damaging the internals of the engine. Are the grey fuel lines gone? They are well known to deteriorate from the inside out, gumming up the internal filters on the carburetors and hence destroying the engine. If the grey lines are still there they will need to be changed and the micro filters in the carbs cleaned at a minimum.
 
I just went and looked at your photos again, so yes, that’s a 787 motor, 2 stroke, they take gas oil mix to burn, being as how yo it only the second owner, I’m assuming it is still set up with the oil injection. Oil injection is very reliable however you should check the small oil lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold and most likely change them if they haven’t been already. You can get those small oil lines directly from BRP and that’s what I do, to make sure the ID of the hoses are exactly the right size. Best to download a shop manual from seadoomanuals.net and should be a parts catalogue there as well that will come in very handy. There’s also a site where you can download operators manual or owners manual, just google BRP owners manuals and you should find it. See what oil t he previous owner used, probably the wrong one, you probably should inspect and clean the rave valves. Good luck, you have a nice neighbour
 
Thanks. I believe I’m the third owner . I know I need a battery and plugs . Don’t know much about its service history. What is that small screen in the second picture? What filters etc should I change .
 
309AC320-625C-497E-A24F-A5DA0C82A432.pngPTO flywheel is right under this cover, I don’t know what that is in your second picture. Don’t recall ever seeing anything like that in any Seadoo I’ve owned. You should change out or I will get slack for this clean out the old oil filter with simple green ordish soap and dry it out thoroughly, it’s only a screen inside of it. If you go to seadoowarehouse.com you can pick your machine there and then there’s parts fiche for everything on your machine. Probably a good idea to clean the micro filters in the carburetors, is that carbureted? Dual carb? If it’s dual carb there will be a micro filter in each carb. And clean the rave valves, cleanjng tjose should be annual maintenance and who knows when t he last time it was done. I know I’m supposed to and I don’t do it every year myself.
 
Is this not fuel injected ? And would taking these wing nuts off expose the flywheel ?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1769.png
    IMG_1769.png
    784 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_1770.png
    IMG_1770.png
    1.5 MB · Views: 10
Use some fogging oil or 2-stroke oil to lube the cylinders, not PB Blaster.

Yes, it is fuel injected and oil injected.

You do not change the oil like on a 4-stroke.

The orange lugs ae for grounding the sparkplug wires when cranking it over without the sparkplugs in.

Yes, rear PTO (Flywheel) is under the gray cover with the wing-nuts.

The filter is part of the in-tank fuel filter, someone has been messing with this ski....

#1 thing to do is make sure the engine is not locked up.
#2 see if it will crank over with a new battery.
#3 Check for compression 150 psi.

#4 go from there depending on 1-3.

Good luck....
 
Yes, taking those wing nuts off will expose the flywheel. Ok, so that’s fuel injected, not carbureted. Forget about the micro filters in the carbs of course. I have a 99 GSXRFI but I have never really worked it, only on carbureted skis but I have a or led on fuel injected snowmobiles. Another common thing that is done when a machine has sat for an extended period of time is to change the fuel selector valve, this is the valve that turns your fuel from ON OFF and RESERVE. To be honest, there’s no sense going through everything that could be wrong with it till you try it, If it mine, I would drain that oil as I mentioned, try to get it all out, take the oil tank off and clean it out good, clean or replace the oil filter, take the oil line off the rotary valve cavity and try to drain as mich oil from it and the lines as you can, fill the tank back up with oil, make sure you get all the air out of the oil filter, bleed the oil pump, check that the marks on the oil pump lever are lining up with the mark on the oil pump housing. Drain and refill the gas ad you mentioned and give it a try. Everything else I mentioned still holds, if it runs crappy don’t keep driving it, it won’t fix itself, only destroy itself if it’s not running right. Don’t run it out of the water. Etc. And see how it goes, might just be fine as is.
 
The thing in the second picture is the voltage regulator Rectifier. Also I don't think there is a fuel switch could be wrong though.
 
2strokeboy said:
The thing in the second picture is the voltage regulator Rectifier. Also I don't think there is a fuel switch could be wrong though.
Click to expand...
HaHa, not sure why but I thought the second picture was of that thing that looks something like a vacuum filter or something
 
mikidymac said:
Use some fogging oil or 2-stroke oil to lube the cylinders, not PB Blaster.

Yes, it is fuel injected and oil injected.

You do not change the oil like on a 4-stroke.

The orange lugs ae for grounding the sparkplug wires when cranking it over without the sparkplugs in.

Yes, rear PTO (Flywheel) is under the gray cover with the wing-nuts.

The filter is part of the in-tank fuel filter, someone has been messing with this ski....

#1 thing to do is make sure the engine is not locked up.
#2 see if it will crank over with a new battery.
#3 Check for compression 150 psi.

#4 go from there depending on 1-3.

Good luck....
Click to expand...
What makes you think someone has been messing with it
 
Prob was not a good idea to take pics after I removed the center support and battery. I did that just to try to get a more complete pic of what I was working with. I want to spend the minimum I have to so as to see if this is a viable ski. If the engine is not seized or has internal damage I will start replacing vital components and clean it up real nice. Can I use a pressure washer with a low force tip to clean the engine compartment?
 
burtshaver2021 said:
View attachment 65320PTO flywheel is right under this cover, I don’t know what that is in your second picture. Don’t recall ever seeing anything like that in any Seadoo I’ve owned. You should change out or I will get slack for this clean out the old oil filter with simple green ordish soap and dry it out thoroughly, it’s only a screen inside of it. If you go to seadoowarehouse.com you can pick your machine there and then there’s parts fiche for everything on your machine. Probably a good idea to clean the micro filters in the carburetors, is that carbureted? Dual carb? If it’s dual carb there will be a micro filter in each carb. And clean the rave valves, cleanjng tjose should be annual maintenance and who knows when t he last time it was done. I know I’m supposed to and I don’t do it every year myself.
Click to expand...
great idea on the parts fich BTW
 
mikidymac said:
Use some fogging oil or 2-stroke oil to lube the cylinders, not PB Blaster.

Yes, it is fuel injected and oil injected.

You do not change the oil like on a 4-stroke.

The orange lugs ae for grounding the sparkplug wires when cranking it over without the sparkplugs in.

Yes, rear PTO (Flywheel) is under the gray cover with the wing-nuts.

The filter is part of the in-tank fuel filter, someone has been messing with this ski....

#1 thing to do is make sure the engine is not locked up.
#2 see if it will crank over with a new battery.
#3 Check for compression 150 psi.

#4 go from there depending on 1-3.

Good luck....
Click to expand...
so attach the spark plug caps to the orange posts on the engine when turning it over
 
onesaintsfan said:
Parts diagram is very helpful. I see inline oil filter is no longer available. What are you all using ?
Click to expand...
I will have a look later, I can’t imagine they are unavailable but if they are, they have them at osd parts.com for sure. Just nice to support seadoowarehouse.com when we can as they support this site. A little longer from them but....
 
I went on and sprayed fogging oil in the cylinders. I have a 120cca battery from a motorcycle that should work for testing things . If I luck up and ski is good I’ll buy a good battery . I want to see if engine turns over before going any further. Out of town today but I’ll give her a shot tomorrow
 
When I take that cover off what tool will I need to manually turn the engine over? I also sprayed PB blaster around the prop(?).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
New PWC owner
Replies
10
Views
177
SabotageR1
S
W
GTI Hull Vents / Fittings
Replies
4
Views
86
wmshay6
W
1
97' XP 800 Stalling when accelerating
Replies
10
Views
270
Grim
Grim
R
96 HX Engine Modification and Oil Delete Question
Replies
0
Views
15
RockyImminence
R
P
587 Initial Oil
Replies
2
Views
72
ParamedicCurt
P
Back
Top