Fuel delivery 2000 Rx951

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rj45lanman

Premium Member
Premium Member
I just purchased a 2000 Rx951 carb'd

After reading the repair manual, I don't fully understand how the fuel is 'pumped' to the carbs.
The manual mentions accelerator pumps but no dedicated dedicated fuel pump unless you have the injections system (Di). Do the accelerator pumps on the carbs act as a syphon? If so, do the fuel lines need to be primed?

I also have an issue with my fuel gauge only showing a single bar but the tank is at least 75% full. I took a voltage reading going to the fuel sensor of ~5v.
 
The one carb has a fuel pump on it that gets a pulse from the crank case and it pulls from the tank. Sounds like you fuel baffle is bad
 
The one carb has a fuel pump on it that gets a pulse from the crank case and it pulls from the tank. Sounds like you fuel baffle is bad
This "pulse' I assume is a vacuum?
And when this occurs, is this vacuum created in the carb diaphragm?

I'm trying to troubleshoot this and wondering if I start with testing a potential leak at the pulse nipple of the carb. The manual shows that it's supposed to hold 4lbs for 10 seconds.

At 160hrs on this ski, I should probably acquire a carb rebuild kit and clean these two carbs up but I'd like to identify the problem before tearing them down.
 
My suggestion, pull the hose that feeds the gas to the carb (run straight hose to carb) and put it in a container of gas/premix. Crank it up and see if it runs. If it runs well you know the accelerator pump is working. I would rev the motor up some too, make sure the pump keeps up with a larger draw.
 
My suggestion, pull the hose that feeds the gas to the carb (run straight hose to carb) and put it in a container of gas/premix. Crank it up and see if it runs. If it runs well you know the accelerator pump is working. I would rev the motor up some too, make sure the pump keeps up with a larger draw.
Followed your suggestion and the carbs would not pick up the fuel. Inspecting the inside of the fuel line, it's caked with a green powdery substance.
I've read a few posts to discover this is common so I'm replacing the fuel lines, filters, and rebuilding the carbs.

Which leads to my next struggle, disassembly! What a PITA!!!
1. I can't remove the air box even after removing the battery
2. I can't remove the exhaust manifold because I can't get to the 15mm bolt

Do I blindly remove the carbs from under the exhaust first?
 

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It is a matter of preference and ability really. I did a lot of work on mine and found it easier to remove the exhaust (as one unit) and work on everything. Some people do pull the carbs while leaving the exhaust in tact. Either way the air box has to come off.

Maybe someone will chime in , who has experience with your model, on how to get the air box off. My system is slightly different from your pic.
 
This "pulse' I assume is a vacuum?
And when this occurs, is this vacuum created in the carb diaphragm?

I'm trying to troubleshoot this and wondering if I start with testing a potential leak at the pulse nipple of the carb. The manual shows that it's supposed to hold 4lbs for 10 seconds.

At 160hrs on this ski, I should probably acquire a carb rebuild kit and clean these two carbs up but I'd like to identify the problem before tearing them down.
Yes but pulse I mean vacuum. But it sounds like a carb rebuild and fuel system refresh would be in order
 
I was able to get the lower nut off the exhaust by making my own wrench. I just heated it up with a propane torch and bent it.

Now I need to figure out which carb kit to purchase and then clean up the grime. I can't stand working in all this sludge.
 

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Well I removed the carbs and didn't see the results I was thinking I'd see. The carbs were obviously previously removed with all the permatex all over. Although, it wasn't inside the carb, nor was any dirt.
The accelerator pump diaphragm had enough fuel in it for two squirts.

So now I'm puzzed and wondering if I even performed my initial fuel test directly to the carb correctly.

But from this point, if there's no sign of dirt plugging any passages, where do I go from here?
 

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Another thing I stumbled across, it appears that my 2 cycle oil is leaking with a small stream dripping down.
 

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I was able to get the lower nut off the exhaust by making my own wrench. I just heated it up with a propane torch and bent it.

Now I need to figure out which carb kit to purchase and then clean up the grime. I can't stand working in all this sludge.
Good 👍🏻make sure and buy only oem mukini carb kits the cheap ones suck I know from experience
 
Another thing I stumbled across, it appears that my 2 cycle oil is leaking with a small stream dripping down.
That doesnt seem to be the oil tank line is it? Also the exhaust looks very dirty might want to clean it a little not sure if it will cause any issues.
 
I was able to get the lower nut off the exhaust by making my own wrench. I just heated it up with a propane torch and bent it.

Now I need to figure out which carb kit to purchase and then clean up the grime. I can't stand working in all this sludge.
Order the "Back to OEM" carb kit from OSDparts.com
 
Discovery made:
When I was trying to start the motor by directly running a hose from the carb to a fuel mix, I'm pretty sure this was a flawed test as I am finally grasping the details of this 'pulse' thing. After removing the carburetors, I am just understanding the difference between the fuel inlet, fuel outlet, and pulse carb nipples.

When I get home after work, I'll reinstall the carbs and test from the actual fuel inlet and this time, make sure the pulse line is connected.
 
When the carbs are on the main line will be the one on the bottom near the throttle cable and the pulse is on the side of the mag carb and return is on the top of the mag side.
 
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I've been reading over many many posts here within the forum on the 951 engines. Lots of quality information...

I held off on the installation of the carbs after doing a compression check. I got 120psi on both cylinders and at 160hrs, I'm wondering if I should go one step further and replace the pistons, rings, and hone out the cylinders, assuming there's no abnormal cylinder wear.

So what's the community census on this?

I'm also replacing the hoses and want to color code according to functionality (fuel, air, oil) and want to confirm the approximate length and size.
From what I've read, the majority (~15') of the fuel lines are 5/16" and <5' is 1/4"

I wasn't able to find the size of the air and oil lines.

2000 seadoo RX 951 carb'd.
 
That is pretty low compression. The only 5/16 size of line is the supply so I think you have the measurements swapped.
 
Compression is fine at this point, perfect on a 951 is 130 psi.

#1. Get those carbs rebuilt correctly.

Also look at the oil since it looks green/blue which is typically not the correct API-TC full synthetic.
 
Compression is fine at this point, perfect on a 951 is 130 psi.

#1. Get those carbs rebuilt correctly.

Also look at the oil since it looks green/blue which is typically not the correct API-TC full synthetic.
Do me a favor and post a link to your preferred synthetic oil.
 
Compression is fine at this point, perfect on a 951 is 130 psi.

#1. Get those carbs rebuilt correctly.

Also look at the oil since it looks green/blue which is typically not the correct API-TC full synthetic.
I thought a new rebuilt 951 compression is generally around 150, I thought I learned that here on the forum. I also thought around 120ish is when reliability starts to wane on them, some engines do ok some don't kind of thing. Am I off?
 
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